MSD dis. won't go in

[StabNsteer]

I'm having a really dumb problem with my '91 LX that I hope someone can help me out with. I got a really good deal on a brand new MSD billet distributor. So I decided to put it in today. I bumped the engine to TDC and took out the old distributor. Heres the problem: I can't get the new distributor to drop into the engine. I know its the right part #. And now I can't get the old one to go back in either. They both stop about a inch from dropping in. I can't believe this is happening, I've removed/installed dozens of distributors on several cars without incident.
The engine is very new, less than 500 miles(306 DSS). The teeth on the Crane cam look good. The oil pump driveshaft (FMS) looks ok. The engine ran fine before I started this adventure. Any ideas?

 

[matt17]

dist.

just to cover all the basics!it is a 5.0 dist and not a 351!351 is longer! my only other suggestion is a problen i caused myself,i recently rebuilt a 91 5.0 out of a coupe for a buddy,had the motor just about all finished and dropped the dist. in and was off a tooth,when i pulled the dist. back out the oil pump staft pulled out of the pump(my bumb ass install it upside down,the tab was towards the pump)i had a heck of a time getting it back in! I only mention this because you said yours is a fresh reduild,somthing to check out! good luck!

 

[HISSIN50]

i seem to recall people having to shorten some flavor of dizzy to make it work in an EFI 302. not sure at all that this is the case (this is a recollection from a year or two ago) but i toss it out as fodder in case it rings a bell with others.

moving the rotor a smidge does not get it in? how about rotating the motor a smidge?
good luck.

 

[jrichker]

Read this carefully from start to finish & you will find the answer you need...

Take the coil wire out of the distributor. Pull #1 plug, put your finger in the spark plug hole. Have someone crank the engine until it starts to blow air past your finger. Stop cranking, turn the engine by hand (breaker bar on the harmonic balancer bolt, or put the car in gear and push) until the TDC mark on the harmonic balancer lines up with the pointer on the passenger side of the engine. Loose the distributor hold down bolt, remove the clamp, cap and wires, disconnect the wiring harness. Pull the distributor straight up.

The following re-install depends on the engine being lined up as in the previous instructions.
To re-install, turn the distributor rotor to point to #1 cylinder position on the cap. The#1 position is about 11 o'clock if 6 o' clock is the front of the engine. Line the rotor up with it pointing at the #1 spark plug position on the cap and drop it in: you may have to twist the shaft some to get it to engage the oil pump shaft. Then remove the SPOUT connector plug, and use a timing light to set the timing. The SPOUT is the dangling connector on the distributor harness on stangs made prior to 94 and with a computer controlled engine. 10* is stock for most 5.0s' 12*-14* is good for more pep if you are not into NO2 or power adders.

 

[matt17]

Read this carefully from start to finish & you will find the answer you need...

Take the coil wire out of the distributor. Pull #1 plug, put your finger in the spark plug hole. Have someone crank the engine until it starts to blow air past your finger. Stop cranking, turn the engine by hand (breaker bar on the harmonic balancer bolt, or put the car in gear and push) until the TDC mark on the harmonic balancer lines up with the pointer on the passenger side of the engine. Loose the distributor hold down bolt, remove the clamp, cap and wires, disconnect the wiring harness. Pull the distributor straight up.

The following re-install depends on the engine being lined up as in the previous instructions.
To re-install, turn the distributor rotor to point to #1 cylinder position on the cap. The#1 position is about 11 o'clock if 6 o' clock is the front of the engine. Line the rotor up with it pointing at the #1 spark plug position on the cap and drop it in: you may have to twist the shaft some to get it to engage the oil pump shaft. Then remove the SPOUT connector plug, and use a timing light to set the timing. The SPOUT is the dangling connector on the distributor harness on stangs made prior to 94 and with a computer controlled engine. 10* is stock for most 5.0s' 12*-14* is good for more pep if you are not into NO2 or power adders.

to late for that,dist is'nt droppin in at all,he says is is a good inch or so!

 

[StabNsteer]

The engine is at TDC. The engine ran fine before I started, the old distributor went in and worked when I first go this new engine running. I've done this before, but this time theres something not right. I've tried rotating the engine a few degrees each way from 0 with a breaker bar with no luck. Both distributors stop at the same point, about 1 inch from the end. I'm tempted to tap it with a wood dowel but all I can do is imagine gear teeth breaking off. Its like the gears are close to meshing but just won't quite go together. This is such a dumb problem to have to waste time on.

 

[matt17]

you prom. have tried it but,turm oil pump shaft a hair!

 

[sandman0023]

I'm having the same problem now. The dizzy has less than 1/4 inch to drop still. How do I turn the oil pump shaft? The instructions say I may need to do this but doesn't say how.

 

[sandman0023]

...

 

[vristang]

Sounds like the pump shaft is not lining up with the dist.
Push the dist. down until it makes light contact with the shaft then twist a little so that the end of the dist can align with the shaft. If you push down too hard on the misaligned dist and shaft both will turn as you twist the dist.

Also, the O-ring on the dist. can provide some resistance during install.

If all else fails, USE A BIGGER HAMMER.

 

[281pony]

i had the same problem with mine.

hold the rotor and try rotating it yet? if not, i would guess maybe the oil pump shaft was moved some upon removing the old distributor and isint lining up now.

 

[MrKwik]

The engine is at TDC. The engine ran fine before I started, the old distributor went in and worked when I first go this new engine running. I've done this before, but this time theres something not right. I've tried rotating the engine a few degrees each way from 0 with a breaker bar with no luck. Both distributors stop at the same point, about 1 inch from the end. I'm tempted to tap it with a wood dowel but all I can do is imagine gear teeth breaking off. Its like the gears are close to meshing but just won't quite go together. This is such a dumb problem to have to waste time on.

Seriously dude, dont smack it with a hammer. The only thing I can imagine is the pump shaft is giving you problems. I almost never get it to seat the first time but its usually only like 1/4" or so. I use my oil pump prime rod (you know the kind that you put on a drill) to turn the pump shaft just a hair till it drops all the way down.

Is there any possibility that you didnt put the little metal clippy do thingy on the shaft when you pit the motor together? It kind of sounds like it may have pulled out of the pump with the distributor and is sitting cockeyed down in the hole on top of the pump maybe. Just a thought.

 

[NosPony]

I had same problem. The distributor gear and cam are cut at a angle. Just fudge it around a bit, it will go. I fought with mine for about 10 minutes I think.


Good Luck!!!!!!!!