Wooohooo!!
Rust, not bad at all. Work to be done for sure & I’m lovin’ every minute of it! Bring it on, I will finish this over the winter!
Looks like a Ford 9”, it looks a tad beefier than a 71’ 9”, bigger driveshaft & loop, was psyched some huge dome pistons stared back at me when I pulled plugs & stuck my Borescope in to have a look see..
Solid lifter Cam & 0.630-0.640 lift (+/-) with a dial indicator on a valve stem. Roller rockers. Done for today, rolling in the grass. Shop tomorrow.
Not sure what the owner before the guy I’d bought from was planning, Drags- no doubt, I’m just happy he didn’t cut it all up!
Looks like good old school Lakewood traction bars holding the spring and axle together. Great for traction, usually make the ride like being in a buck board.
Hi,
How goes the octane controversy? Hope everything’s remaining as should be running the necessary octane levels, no misfire CEL’s, or spark knock. Ever get that manifest from the station owner?
This Mach 1 is truly revealing secrets in a subtle way, I want to tear the motor, Trans out & open it all up like an 8yr old would just to know what surprises lurk within Christmas presents the eve before, lol. Ayup-Lakewood’s,
I’m used to a car nobody’s touched to Mod, or they claim they did nothing and the motor/drivetrain’s a train wreck inside. This isn’t one of those two... and has no concrete History. Needs work- but Great shape.
Guy I know I’d bought it from is a Marine I know & has had it for a few years, couldn’t pass it up, hoards parts like me (gave me 6 71’ Doors with the Car(not including the 2 on the car) another hood, another 2 dashes, 3 consoles, it’s Bumper, a Fender, could go on forever..Can’t pass up classic parts, you do- there’s always one part you’ll need you’d passed up. Just needs to stay organized & preserved.
Have a pic that says it all about the Cleveland 4V Heads, thought you might find humorous...like golf? lol (Below)...
Have 2 4V sets, one open chamber, one closed (or Wedge, on the motor). Also a set of 2V head’s, open chamber.
Swept dome pistons for good flame travel rise into the little quench space remaining..
Another odd one, was looking at the Converter to get a stall speed reference, noticed no offset balance weight on the flex plate, so I swung around & there’s a Viscous damper- not a balancer with an offset on the Crank nose either...internally balanced(!?!)
You run an externally balanced motor w/o external offset weight..it’ll tear itself apart!
As far as I remember, the 335 series motors, couple older Mustang encyclopedia type guys at the shop concurred, Cleveland MOTOR parts are really only useful for Cleveland motors, closest- the..... 351M, 400M motors.. I recalled the coolant passages required machining on a set a long time ago a guy wanted to use on his 351(427) Windsor.
Cleveland’s need to be finished, Ford was stuck & couldn’t due to the 71’ emission guidelines, hence the tall deck 289&302...the 351W. Good motors, but intent & purpose was entirely different than a 4V Cleveland, they will produce/handle huge HP/TQ #’s..but..”assembly required”..So once you pickup and finish the full setup Ford intended the right way, the outcomes are incredible..
Who internally balances a Cast Crank? WHERE could you even GET a forged Cleveland Crank (unless it’s from a motor with widespread forged cranks available at decent cost similar enough yet oversized to be offset ground & toleranced to the larger Cleveland’s journals)...couldn’t see it well enough to be 100% if it’s Cast, Nod. or Forged... so, hypertension setting in, grabbed my borescope to try to get deeper in to see it, waiting to clear the oil from the pan..to cloudy, windage tray inside- but ran right into a stud- from the main cap...4 bolt mains.
That’s not surprising, Cleveland blocks, 4 Bolt or 2 had clearance for 4 bolt caps, drill & tap the block(& helicoil), align bore/hone the to square up, between that, Crank grind, bearings, nail your clearance tolerances. They’re also splayed..Milo Caps (Gold). A 1975-85’ build I’d guess...unfinished..now I’m thinking..stroker? 408..? (4.060” Bore with 4.20” stroke..435!).. God, I’m more Dreaming now, lol!
Ti Retainers, likely 10* keepers, triple valvespring solid, flat Tappet Cam w/ a Gear drive, “noisy” or “quiet”...they’re always Noisy, like an M-22 Trans, lol..love it!
Vacuum accumulator vessel with a liquid filled SW Gauge for it (and 4 more). So, I’m guessing it’s going to be a very lumpy bump stick..All AN fittings & fuel system regulator, old style Diaphragm on the firewall, external Mallory electric pump, huge Tranny Cooler, chose not to use the Radiator...4 Core, I get that, too. Flexfan & shroud, best combo.
The journal clearances- dimensions. Depending reciprocating mass, good balancing...IME, below 7,500RPM’s, a studded 2 bolt block with radiused, billet Caps & girdles is nearly as good- if not better than a 4 bolt, no unnecessary removal of crucial bearing web block material.
Where were they planning on revving this to? lol.
So, I’ve loaded the pan with crankcase cleaner now, see what else i find. Quite excited, spun the pump after I’d changed the oil & the Mech gauge promptly shot up, sat at 75lbs. Oiling systems are quite unique..
God, can’t wait to fire it off once I've checked everything..
I’ll keep you posted, may start a build thread for this, before the 302 to 331 stroker build, 351 to 427 build..
Best!
-John
P.S. Seen my ball, appeared to have lost it near the wood line?lol
Hi,
Sooo...after near 10hr’s and a full car hand application & removal of Rubbing Compound required a full can’s usage....91 degrees outside today (no complaints)..
She made me work for it, but was well worth the effort I think.... There really was a sheeny 71’ Mach 1 under all that Oxidation. IMO, Don’t really know a car unless you’ve been over every inch, 2 birds..one stone..
Step to polishing compound & then a coat of liquid ebony, then fixate on firing her off once the parts come in. Going to go back to dual point’s,
Valve-train geometry setup errors in already started premature wear on the Crane gold rockers they’d installed, heavy valve springs were removed/reinstalled after the solid lifter Cam install/break in, all else looks good.
Inside the hood there’s evidence of one heck of a previous carb fireball, intake valve Cyl 1 was adjusted in 015-.020, rather than .025 lash. Its one of “those” Cam’s, lol.
Keep imagining Wile E Coyote with his facial hair all singed off & black with that surprised look when tnt blows up in his face....
Had my share of that, lol.
Interested in how that fuels affecting things, or if a systemic issue finally reared it’s head(?)
Well, until you post..wish you & your family well!
-John
Hi. No problems with the check engine light since I've been running the 89 or 90 octane. Only thing going on now that I need to look into is occasionally the OD OFF light starts blinking and won't shut off. I turn off the car, turn it back on again and it's not there. Also doesn't come on at all if I don't touch the OD OFF button. Reading on it tells me there may be something going on, have no idea what. Car runs great, shifts normal. No sign of any kind of leak under the vehicle. Going to have a friend who does transmissions do a fluid/filter swap. I know on these, it's kind of a bitch due to there not being a dip stick.
Your car looks GREAT! Same exact hood locks as I have on mine. Mine came from Cervinni's and are called Classic Hood Locks. I see why now, they were used on the older Mustangs back when.
Took the car to a friends shop yesterday and had the transmission fluid and filter changed. Old fluid was kind of a yucky brown color. So, we'll soon see if this fixes the OD OFF light coming on intermittently. Reading on the subject, came across several references where that fixed the problem. It didn't come on on the way home from his shop yesterday.
Took it for about a 30 miles drive today. OD OFF light starts blinking after about 10 minutes. Shut it off, start it, same happens. Every time. But it drives fine and shifts fine. Matter-of-fact, its topped the stuttering at around 45 going slightly uphill when the trans couldn't seem to make up it's mind if it was going to shift into OD or not. That's a thing of the past. And the standing start feels better. I suppose it may have been slipping a little bit before? So, now I have to chase down exactly what is causing the OD OFF light to blink. Some reading suggests there is a solenoid that goes out. But it doesn't cause the trans to go BOOM either. LOL!!