Mustang Body Issues! (Warranty Question)

I too am into handling and the Mustang is a great car for modifications, lots of places to get upgrades for suspension. I started my suspension upgrade by tacking the car to a track (Button Willow) and did some timed laps. Let me add that I have done allot of track days in cars and motorcycles and have attended racing schools, so I know how to get around a track. I took my stock 2000 GT and did some laps. My best was 1:24 that day. Then I had some mods done. Global West frame connecters, offset rack/pinion aluminum bushings, Cast and Caber plates, shock tower brace, Steeda short shifter and a Cobra Daytona seat. With these mods I shaved 7 seconds off my lap time on the next track day. The car worked fantastic, the ride has not changed, it’s actually better as the car feels stiffer when hitting bumps and doesn't squeak.

My next mods for the suspension are, Cobra R rims 17X9, 17X10.5 with 275 fronts and 315 rears, Brembo four piston front calipers and 13" rotors, Bear 13" rear rotors, Panhard bar, Torque Arm, Adjustable rear lower control arms, springs and 3.73 gears.

I do about four to six trackdays a year in my car and I am having fun building a simple cheap track day car. Its fun to bring out the "old mustang" and hang with my buddies that they paid 70k for there cars. My total investment when completed with suspension work including the price of the car, 21k
 
Donw35 said:
I too am into handling and the Mustang is a great car for modifications, lots of places to get upgrades for suspension. I started my suspension upgrade by tacking the car to a track (Button Willow) and did some timed laps. Let me add that I have done allot of track days in cars and motorcycles and have attended racing schools, so I know how to get around a track. I took my stock 2000 GT and did some laps. My best was 1:24 that day. Then I had some mods done. Global West frame connecters, offset rack/pinion aluminum bushings, Cast and Caber plates, shock tower brace, Steeda short shifter and a Cobra Daytona seat. With these mods I shaved 7 seconds off my lap time on the next track day. The car worked fantastic, the ride has not changed, it’s actually better as the car feels stiffer when hitting bumps and doesn't squeak.

My next mods for the suspension are, Cobra R rims 17X9, 17X10.5 with 275 fronts and 315 rears, Brembo four piston front calipers and 13" rotors, Bear 13" rear rotors, Panhard bar, Torque Arm, Adjustable rear lower control arms, springs and 3.73 gears.

I do about four to six trackdays a year in my car and I am having fun building a simple cheap track day car. Its fun to bring out the "old mustang" and hang with my buddies that they paid 70k for there cars. My total investment when completed with suspension work including the price of the car, 21k


Right on bud :nice: You, my friend are a driver. Good choice in vehicles too :p
 
Warrenty ? I Have no prob with ford

FalconGuy016 said:
Wow!

I spent an hour or two reading up and researching the body, suspension, and history of the Mustang

AND IT REALLY SUCKS!

I am already a handling freak, even though I was aware that the Mustang wasnt a top performer in this class, I did not know of some of the crappier issues of the car. I wont start spewing the fresh facts I just learned, except for one... THE UNIBODY! I cant believe the only thing holding the front and back is SHEET METAL! I plan on putting in some subframe connectors as quick as I can, but I am a little edgy on my warranty

Will adding subframe connectors (along with other related items in the future) void my warranty for the WHOLE car? Or just the items specifically related to what the connectors effect, and if so, how far out will that drag that definition (like would they be reasonable or claim that, in some way, the connectors void my warranty on the radiator, or something ghey)


Thanks!
I have Maximum motor sports full length weld in Sub- frame
Connectors! It was the frrst mod I did about a week after I bought the car in march of 01. No! that won't void any part of your warrenty. If there was a problem Ford would need to prove that the connectors with out a doubt caused the problem.For instance Last month my lower intake cracked at the thermostat housing. Well it was covered under the 100000 mile warrenty I have! you say so what! I have A meziere electric water pump,70mm accufab
Mac cold air intake,H&R springs, and on & on. Check with your service writer or sales guy or who ever.
 
pithon said:
I have Maximum motor sports full length weld in Sub- frame
Connectors! It was the frrst mod I did about a week after I bought the car in march of 01. No! that won't void any part of your warrenty. If there was a problem Ford would need to prove that the connectors with out a doubt caused the problem.For instance Last month my lower intake cracked at the thermostat housing. Well it was covered under the 100000 mile warrenty I have! you say so what! I have A meziere electric water pump,70mm accufab
Mac cold air intake,H&R springs, and on & on. Check with your service writer or sales guy or who ever.

In theory yes the Magnasun Moss act says that Ford has to prove that the aftermarket part caused the damage. There are loopholes though. If Ford can find signs that the car was abused they will void the warranty. Ford will say that performance mods indicate the car is used for racing and hence the car is abused. Again, some dealers are far more lenient than others. It is not as cut and dry as you may think. Even if Ford is in the wrong most people don't have the time or money to fight it. Warranty fraud is rampant these days so Ford and other manufacturers have taken the stance that you are guilty until proven innocent. It is unfortunate but they are gonna look out for their own purse strings first.

Just spent about 10 seconds doing a search.

Here is a case of a dealer voiding a warranty for sub frame connectors.
http://www.modulardepot.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=33577&highlight=warranty+void+abuse

Here is a case of a dealer saying they will cover a repair "unless" they find signs of abuse. The guy is right to be worried about his mods.
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=466429&highlight=warranty+void+abuse
 
like im sure everyone said..... mustangs suspension suck ass!!!
Ford saves a lot of money by putting cheap parts on mustangs. So, the handle like **** and have a horrible 4x4 stance. The first thing i did when i bought mine was drop it with a tockico setup and add some subframes. def what everyone's first mod sould be. helped handling and acctualy made the ride smoother and tighter.
as for the unibody...it makes the car lighter, but most important, it makes the car cheaper to build. its simple. when you buy a $25k car with a 260hp engine you give up some high quality parts for cheap ones all for the sake of cost.

Look...you want a best quality, top of the line performance, rails handling and on a dime stopping car, buy a porsche.
If you want a cheap, fun car that will take your abuse buy a mustang. you have this great list of cars you have driven, but i didnt see any muscle cars one em.....you ever drive a bigblock chevelle wit leaf springs and drum brakes? ....there are no limits, your choices are a straight line and a straight line. they dont stop, or turn but they accelerate like nothin out there. you should expect that when you buy a muscle car. if you want to turn buy a miata.
 
jmk97GT said:
Only reason mustang's frames get bent without being in an accident is from beating on them. Launching very hard often over time can cause the frame to twist.
:rlaugh: I didnt think this was possible until i saw it happen. a bud of mine (real old school "every penny into horsepower" guy) owned (he was forced to scrap it after this) a 95 GT with a blower...and many other performance parts that i dont know too much about. anyway, he was pushing 360hp easy and always bragged about his low times on all-weather tires and stock suspension.
one day at the track he put slicks on it and lauched too hard i guess and completely twiste the body....like seriously twisted it! i couldnt even open the pass. side door.and the drivers wouldnt close after we openned it.the hood rested a little on top of the fender on the right side and lifter about .5" over the cowl...its was freekin insane!