Mustang fresh rebuilt wont start


So I finished rebuilding the motor and installed it. here is what's happening.
When I try to start the car without hitting the gas at all, it will start, runs for a 20 seconds then stalls and wont start again. I leave it till the next day, charge the battery then it will start and its the same exact thing!
Pulled the plugs and they are soaked with gas so I checked the fuel pressure at the rail, when I turn the key on without starting the car, the gauge reads 5PSI. when I start the car its reading 40 to 45. When I pulled the plugs they were soaked with gas.
the right side sparks getting a little black but the left side is is not
Already checked the coils
EGR Valve
FPS
Vacuum leaks and there are none.
What to do now ?
stuck open injectors ?
Any help would be appreciated guys!
 
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How did you establish initial cam timing? Describe the procedure followed. Did you take pictures of the initial cam gears and crank timing mark?

What happens if you disconnect the MAF electrical connector?

Might be handy to know the model year of your car. If this is a coil pack motor, are you positive that the spark plug wires are run correctly?

Do you have a "noid" tester to confirm fuel injector firing pulse? Or "listen" for the mechanical click of the fuel injectors.
 
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I'm sorry its a 2004 Mach 1
I had a mechanic do the timing for me, the compression is normal in all cylinders,
I tried to disconnect the MAF and it didn't make any difference.
Coils are all firing, I had one bad coil and I replaced it. I haven't checked the injectors for plus but I hear them click.
 
Did your car originally have a DOHC motor? IE, is this a motor swap project?

If this is a motor swap, what did you do about retro fitting the COP's to the PCM and which COP's did you use? What PCM and wiring harness has been used?

Having wet plugs all on ONE SIDE of the motor is a symptom of a mis-timed motor. IE, the left cam is 180 degrees out of sync in relation to the right side. Just how good is your mechanic? Does he have any documentation on how the motor was timed?
 
Its not a swap, Its all stock, all plugs coming up wet, looking at the plugs feels like the left side is getting more gas, and the right side plugs are getting a little black, the other side not. I checked for injector pulse like you said and they all got it.
 
What happens if the throttle is held half way open during cranking?

Do you have access to an ODB2 scanner that is capable of monitoring operational data? If so, monitor RPM's, MAF flow, and fuel pressure during cranking. Post the results.

What a motor needs to run is FAST. Fuel, Air, Spark, Timing. It's a matter of working through the list and find out what's missing.
 
I don't know that you read too much into plug colour or "wetness" based on 20-second running spurts from cold.

I'm confused by your problem:

When I try to start the car without hitting the gas at all, it will start, runs for a 20 seconds then stalls and wont start again. I leave it till the next day, charge the battery then it will start and its the same exact thing!

Okay, so when you say it "won't start again", do you mean the engine cranks and cranks but there's no hint of firing? Or is the engine not even turning? Why do you need to charge the battery?

What is special about leaving it until the next day? Is this a necessity or is this how long it takes to put the charge back in the battery?

Pulled the plugs and they are soaked with gas so I checked the fuel pressure at the rail, when I turn the key on without starting the car, the gauge reads 5PSI. when I start the car its reading 40 to 45. When I pulled the plugs they were soaked with gas.

Firstly, I don't know that you read too much into plug colour or "wetness" based on 20-second running spurts from cold.

Second, 5-psi sounds way low to me.

When the engine does run, is it actually running decently, or is it chugging and belching black smoke?

You said when you start the car the fuel pressure is 40-psi: What is it when the engine stalls?

Please clarify the electrical side of this, in particular, the need to charge the battery, the "next day" thing etc.
 
from my experience with the 3.8 , beware i know very little of 4.6 liters and their components , not even really sure if they have camshaft position sensors but on the 3.8 when my CPS went bad it stumbled a little and got black gassy plugs , and it had no power , it could not climb hills , once i changed the CPS i put it in the wrong position (i got distracted ok ) and it ran about like what your describing , i would say the camshaft is out , whatever method it uses to keep it in time is wrong , im about 99% sure , but then again im only 19 lol :chair: