mustang is not running right can anyone help?

If your car is fairly stock its no wonder a 3 inch kit will absolutely kill the grunt of a stocker 302 pull some codes and see what comes up. I will also ask where were the 02 sensors placed in the pipe?

I'm gonna guess fuel pressure regulator on this one... I could be wrong but that's my guess.

Could also be Distributor Cap, distributor, o2 sensors, fuel pump, filter... But considering the exhaust amplified the problem I think you should check the fuel pressure.

I had a mustang do that because of an intake swap. I also wonder if a complete loss of back pressure would do it?

I am having similar problems as well and ine started to do the same thing after a new exhaust. I have been through the whole thing too. Checked everything as far as fuel, spark, and most of the ignition components.

is it a catted or o/r x pipe? did you do it yourself or was it installed at a shop? any chance something was not hooked up right? when i did mine, it seemed to amplifly the problems i had with my egr that i didn't really realize until after, but i also removed all my smog equipment at that same time. it ran rough after the install until i bought a scanner and found my egr was toast....

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/





If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.



89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.



Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.