This thread serves 2 purposes...
1) Never buy an NPI Mustang w/ an Auto
2) ALWAYS make sure your MAF is clean, especially after doing PI cams and manifold.
Longer story: Finally got the car put on a Dyno yesterday to see what everything in my sig would net. We put the car up on the Dyno and did a quick run and ran into problems...it was saying the car was at 150HP and the graph wasn't the normal curve, it was really jagged and stuff. We narrowed it down to the MAF (Preventative Maintenance is a must on your MAF, clean it yearly) and my AFR was reading ~16. Of course, like everything involving my car, one of the tamper proof screws holding it in was corroded/rusted so we couldn't get it off. We pulled my car of the Dyno so he could tune other peoples cars while we got the damn thing taken apart. We finally got it off and it had a TON of gunk on it, the guy cleaned it up and then we were able to throw the beast back up on the Dyno. He ran it without the chip (stock ECU) once and I pegged the dyno, but not in the good way.
My AFR was 18+!!! He's like "your car should have blown up 2 weeks ago". No wonder my gas mileage was so good. After 6 pulls we finally got to about as good as it was going to get. He tweaked the timing to 28* got the AFR down to a much more acceptable range, as well as tweaking the tranny's shifts. I originally told him not to do that as I would do the J-mod but I caved and just let him tweak it with the tuner. I'd still say do the JMod but whatever. Without further ado, here is my proof of the fact that you should never buy NPI + Auto and that Dyno tuning or at least tuning w/ an AFR reader is a must.
At least it feels a ton better...
1) Never buy an NPI Mustang w/ an Auto
2) ALWAYS make sure your MAF is clean, especially after doing PI cams and manifold.
Longer story: Finally got the car put on a Dyno yesterday to see what everything in my sig would net. We put the car up on the Dyno and did a quick run and ran into problems...it was saying the car was at 150HP and the graph wasn't the normal curve, it was really jagged and stuff. We narrowed it down to the MAF (Preventative Maintenance is a must on your MAF, clean it yearly) and my AFR was reading ~16. Of course, like everything involving my car, one of the tamper proof screws holding it in was corroded/rusted so we couldn't get it off. We pulled my car of the Dyno so he could tune other peoples cars while we got the damn thing taken apart. We finally got it off and it had a TON of gunk on it, the guy cleaned it up and then we were able to throw the beast back up on the Dyno. He ran it without the chip (stock ECU) once and I pegged the dyno, but not in the good way.
My AFR was 18+!!! He's like "your car should have blown up 2 weeks ago". No wonder my gas mileage was so good. After 6 pulls we finally got to about as good as it was going to get. He tweaked the timing to 28* got the AFR down to a much more acceptable range, as well as tweaking the tranny's shifts. I originally told him not to do that as I would do the J-mod but I caved and just let him tweak it with the tuner. I'd still say do the JMod but whatever. Without further ado, here is my proof of the fact that you should never buy NPI + Auto and that Dyno tuning or at least tuning w/ an AFR reader is a must.
At least it feels a ton better...