Mustang wont run right; idles rough, bogs and dies

Thought I had a bad fuel pump but cleaned MAF, TPS, and IAC sensors and got it to run. Idles kinda rough, stumbles, and dies if you give it too much throttle. No check engine light but got a code for rich right bank. YouTube - Mustang runs bad, dies Car had sat for a month and was dead. Replaced battery and was hard to start then ran for a minute, died, and would then just crank. Disconnected battery, cleaned MAF, IAC, and TPS, now will run but idles kinda rough, idle speed fluctuates, bogs when open throttle, and if I open throttle too fast will die. :shrug:
 
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with the right bank code , i would check the O2 sensors and see if they r working properly

have u done a compression test? How about plugs and wires? Vacuum test?

And yeah your IAC still could be bad and you need to get a new one..they r not that expensive at the parts store
 
Also to go with the rich right bank trouble code, it also throws the code for OBD-II Monitor Testing Incomplete. Ive had this before when battery was disconnected. Without running the car I just double checked the codes and got a Fuel Trim System Lean for Bank 1 and Bank 2.
 
Well now it just cranks, wont start. :shrug:

check all vacuum lines, pull and replace the plugs with 1 range cooler of a plug (all Champions are cooler than factory plugs)

What did u clean the MAF with? Does the starter sound weak? Have you checked fuel pressure with a gauge yet??????

What about the other things in the post that was asked???

If your running lean, then MAF would be more of a concern. You may need a new one and you need to check the O2 sensors as well.
 
Check for fuel at the Schrader valve on the passenger-side fuel rail. If you don't have a gauge you can still do a "go/no go" test: Depress the Schrader and look for a spray of fuel. (Obviously, be careful re smoking etc...)

If you don't see fuel, you may have pump, FPDM or CCRM issues. If there's fuel, you may have a spark delivery problem (wiring, fuses etc).

Given the car's tendency to stall or want to when the throttle was cracked I'm leaning toward a fuel problem.
 
My car was acting very similar to this less than 2 weeks ago: mainly the horrible idling and stalling out. After doing the "cheaper" stuff like replacing the plugs and cleaning/checking the EGR valve, MAF sensor, etc. It ended up being that I just had to replace the heated O2 sensor on the drivers side (my car was throwing a drivers side bank code). After I replaced the O2 sensor everything was back to normal again. Might want to look into that if its not something you've done recently.