Great job, Mike! Sounds like you're figuring things out. Got me wanting to get back into it, soon. Want to install a switch for 93 & 87 octane tunes.
Mustang5L5’s progress thread - Boom
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I was going to stay single wide band just for the sake of simplicity, but now that I have a better understanding of how to use the software, i'll be installing the second WB over the winter.
I definitely get it though. I have time invested into learning this, but that's because I want to learn it. I can see how folks just want to plug in, get a tune and start driving. I kinda have the luxury of being able to drive the SN95 to satisfy that need. For example, after running out of gas and then getting the car home, i just threw it in the garage, said I was done for the day, and took the convertible out for a ride.
Next week i plan to install injectors, throttle body, and fuel pressure sensor. I'm also going to pull the valve covers and check rocker arms to make sure they are tight. I hear a little top end tick once the engine warms up so i wonder if one is loose.
Got to test out my changes. Looks like i'm on the right path.
The pre changes start. This is the plot of RPM. The bump up to the left if when i start cranking at about 300RPM and then the big jump is when it starts. You can see it dances around a bit on the way up.
After the change. Removed some fuel from cranking pulse, raised the crank/idle RPM threshhold, and added a tiny bit of fuel to the cell it happens to kick over on. I can prob play with the After start enrichment to smooth out the transition down.
But honestly. i should stop. As soon as i change the injectors out I have to redo all this. Yeah, i'm learning...but rather than dial it in i should wait. TS should scale the fueling for the new injectors, but that's all assuming I set the injector settings correct for the 19's. I have published data for the 47's so this should be easy.
SO maybe I should just start pulling the top end off now anyway.
The pre changes start. This is the plot of RPM. The bump up to the left if when i start cranking at about 300RPM and then the big jump is when it starts. You can see it dances around a bit on the way up.
After the change. Removed some fuel from cranking pulse, raised the crank/idle RPM threshhold, and added a tiny bit of fuel to the cell it happens to kick over on. I can prob play with the After start enrichment to smooth out the transition down.
But honestly. i should stop. As soon as i change the injectors out I have to redo all this. Yeah, i'm learning...but rather than dial it in i should wait. TS should scale the fueling for the new injectors, but that's all assuming I set the injector settings correct for the 19's. I have published data for the 47's so this should be easy.
SO maybe I should just start pulling the top end off now anyway.
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lol.
Well I started to take the intake manifold off tonight. Injectors come tomorrow so I want to dig into this. Rather than dink around tweaking the 19# injectors only to throw that all out the window.
I’ve been watching Steve’s videos on DIYautotine. If you need an hour to kill, this is a good one. Car sounds awesome too.
View: https://youtu.be/GjyyWQhGGJE?si=H9eN1WaJd44k78ED
Well I started to take the intake manifold off tonight. Injectors come tomorrow so I want to dig into this. Rather than dink around tweaking the 19# injectors only to throw that all out the window.
I’ve been watching Steve’s videos on DIYautotine. If you need an hour to kill, this is a good one. Car sounds awesome too.
View: https://youtu.be/GjyyWQhGGJE?si=H9eN1WaJd44k78ED
Injectors and connectors arrived
These new EV6s are skinny little things compated to the fat-bodied metal EV1s
Didn’t install yet. I figure when I take the fuel rail off, I should replace the end hoses. What size ID fuel injection hose is the right size for those? 5/16” or 3/8”
These new EV6s are skinny little things compated to the fat-bodied metal EV1s
Didn’t install yet. I figure when I take the fuel rail off, I should replace the end hoses. What size ID fuel injection hose is the right size for those? 5/16” or 3/8”
Are you talking about the crossover line between the stock rails? I think you know this but what is under the insulation is nylon tubing that was heated and then the barbed fitting pressed into it. Most just replace it with 5/16" high pressure fuel line and good clamps. You see this a lot on the 351W conversions that did not use aftermarket fuel rails.
Yes, that's the hose. Debating if i should replace those hoses, or just leave as is. Been looking at aftermarket rails as well.
I also may just swap the injectors and come back to this over the winter. I still have nice weather so i'm dying to see what the injector swap does.
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We know that the stock rails are good to about 500 fwhp. I want to say the 94/95 rails are good for a little bit more. So if you are pushing that number it’s probably time to go aftermarket. Do your research as I have read all kinds of posts about the aftermarket ones having interference issues so make sure you do your home work.
My interest in new rails was less about HP figures, and more about safety and preventing an engine fire.
Intake off. Trying to judge my next move. Tackle the injectors and wiring…or pull a valve cover and check the rockers.
Pulled the old 65mm Explorer TB off. The gasket didn’t survive so need to order a new one of those.
Discovered this had dry rotted. So need to source a replacement or replace just the soft vac line
Pulled the old 65mm Explorer TB off. The gasket didn’t survive so need to order a new one of those.
Discovered this had dry rotted. So need to source a replacement or replace just the soft vac line
Injectors are in. Wasn’t too bad
Pulled the injector harness. Figure it would be easy to wire in the new injector plugs on my bench vs leaning over the car. I need to verify I have the right crimper first
Pulled the MAP sensor off while I was here. Don’t need the ford one as the MS has an internal one.
Going to pull the drivers VC next. That’s the easy one. Called it a night as I need to vent the garage for a bit due to the gas fumes from swapping the injectors.
Updated my Megasquirt tune for the next injectors and sent that to the car.
Hoping to fire it up next weekend
Pulled the injector harness. Figure it would be easy to wire in the new injector plugs on my bench vs leaning over the car. I need to verify I have the right crimper first
Pulled the MAP sensor off while I was here. Don’t need the ford one as the MS has an internal one.
Going to pull the drivers VC next. That’s the easy one. Called it a night as I need to vent the garage for a bit due to the gas fumes from swapping the injectors.
Updated my Megasquirt tune for the next injectors and sent that to the car.
Hoping to fire it up next weekend
Those are the valve covers I like. Just not sure if they'll fit under stud mount rockers. You just pulling them to check things out? If so, and it's hydraulic and not making any concerning noise, I'd skip it. Maybe just check to make sure none of the bolts/studs have loosened since last time.
I have stud mount rockers under them.
When the engine is hot, i get a bit more of a sewing machine type noise from the rockers. I just want to give each one a wiggle now that the engine has had some run time and make sure they are all properly installed. It's a "while i'm here" sort of inspection.
It’s a shame these get covered up.
Nothing obviously loose. A couple have a little side to side wiggle, but the pushrods spin and don’t have any up and down slop. Prob need to spin the motor over by hand and check.
Nothing obviously loose. A couple have a little side to side wiggle, but the pushrods spin and don’t have any up and down slop. Prob need to spin the motor over by hand and check.
