Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - Archived Progress thread '08-'20.

Mustang5L5 · Jan 10, 2019

Back in the garage. Car on stands and ready to go.

Need to add "replace speedo cable" to the list. This one squeals like a mofo just creeping in and out of the garage.

But I'll rip this side apart and then since it will be open, replace the starter and rewire it. I also have a strange clunk coming from this corner when I go forward/reverse. It was there before but backing the car in/out it was quite noticeable. Since I'm about to pull this side apart I'll have to break out the prybars and see what's moving. Everything here is new other than the shock. LCA has maybe 5k miles on it. It sounds like something pops in/out on the pass side . Strange.

Mustang5L5 · Jan 10, 2019

02 281 GT said:
I was looking into your brake setup and had a question: where did you acquire the caliper brackets? I looked up the part number you listed and did not come up with anyone who sells them. Just a bunch of threads on other forums.

The are Baer brakes only parts that you have to call and ask for, however they are discontinued now and not available. Only way to do the setup now is find a set (rare) or modify the spindle to accept the much cheaper z51 bracket. The bolt spacing is off maybe 1mm or so, and GM uses slightly larger diameter bolts. Basically it's permanent spindle modification.

More info here

https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...pers-on-sn95-spindles-cobra-13-rotors.901654/

Mustang5L5 · Jan 11, 2019

Reddevil91 said:
Are these the cloth or vinyl?

Vinyl.

Mustang5L5 · Jan 12, 2019

Snuck off to the garage for an hour to tear this apart. Didn't find any obvious clunk suspect but I think it was the sway bar endlink. Not 100% sure. The balljoint us tight and no movement from the control arm bolts. But something up here was making a pretty loud clunk when going backwards and then forwards.

I'll check u joints...but I have maybe 1k miles on a brand new Ford racing AL driveshaft so I doubt it's that.

Stopped here because it's perfect access through the k member to the starter with nothing in the way. Next mission.

Old suspension parts. Shocks are junk and the Mach 1 springs will get sold off shortly locally.

Mustang5L5 · Jan 13, 2019

Snuck into the garage for another hour. Managed to install the pass side Caster Camber plate and the bump steer endlink. Did some general cleaning as well.

With the suspension missing, was easy to yank the starter out. All of 10 min to do so.

Original 1987 build starter complete with grime and corrosion

And yes, the underside of my engine is nasty. Can't wait to pull the engin and do a general cleaning, paint, reseal and add my go-faster parts

Stopped there for the night. Tomorrow I'll toss the new starter in and do the wiring and hopefully test it out. Aiming to have he car back on all 4 wheels by this weekend and start tweaking height and Camber/toe settings

Mustang5L5 · Jan 14, 2019

HotFox said:
Mike,
So have to ask because I know your very methotocol in your parts selection. Why the PA performance starter? Surprised you did not opt for a newer mustang OEM.

I was going to go with this, but it's the same 1.4 kw rating as the PA starter, plus the PA starter does have a (limited) lifetime warranty, and cheaper.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-11000-b51

I tried to convince myself to go with a rockauto motorcraft starter, but I wasn't quote convinced on their reliability so I figured for $30 more i'd grab the PA starter. I also didn't want to grab a used part either from a newer stang.

Mustang5L5 · Jan 14, 2019

02 281 GT said:
Do you have a part number I could plug in for a saved search?

Looks like FIRE-9E434-BA

But that "I" could be a number 1

Edit: found one

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/232870782546

Mustang5L5 · Jan 15, 2019

My FTI cam came in. Looks like this is what we have for specs based on what I asked for

Mustang5L5 · Jan 15, 2019

Noobz347 said:
Ok, except for the lift and somewhat, lobe separation, the numbers are mostly Greek to me.

For the lunk-heads like me: What characteristics do you expect to achieve with this cam? What numbers in this image lead you to believe that it's what you're getting?

I expect bald eagles to shoot out of my exhaust

Mustang5L5 · Jan 16, 2019

I actually neeed to upgrade the springs on the heads. There's $300 I wasn't expecting when I decided to go custom cam. Seat pressure only 125# on the springs that come on the TFS170s

These have been recommended

http://www.flowtechinduction.com/lunati-dual-valve-spring-kit-73925k2tw/

Here's what you get when you order the custom cam.

Hoping PTV is ok here

Mustang5L5 · Jan 17, 2019

Dan02gt said:
Your combo is about the same as mine (I have AFR 165s) so I'm curious about how that cam is going to do. I know enough about cams to be dangerous but have to ask why he chose so much lift for such a mild combo and why he ground a 110* LSA. Hopefully it will idle OK.

You know...I was wondering the same thing however my knowledge of camshaft specs is only enough to be dangerous as well. I did emphasis it was a street driven car and wanted to retain driveability.

Mustang5L5 · Jan 17, 2019

Even though I'll be going with a new k member at some point, I decided to pick up a 4pt brace for the stock k member

SPENt way too much on MM parts this year

Mustang5L5 · Jan 17, 2019

Car is back down on all four wheels. Coil overs are done. Suspension leveled out nicely and the front is low. I'll prob end up lifting it up a half inch or so. But I like.

Need to reposition jackstands to install the 4 pt brace. But, we have a wedding and 1 to 2 feet of snow due this weekend so I figure I leave it down and let the springs settle a bit.

Next up is 4pt brace, replace the speedo cable and change trans fluid.

Mustang5L5 · Jan 22, 2019

Well, ran into my first snafu wth a MM part. The k member brace is off slightly.

With one side loosely bolted up, I'm off about 3/4" or so on the other side on bolts holes.

Why would my k member be narrower? This is an original V8 can, no accidents and this car was 100% stock when I got it so nothing's been changed out.

Hmm. I'll have to fire off an email to MM

Mustang5L5 · Jan 23, 2019

Wayne Waldrep said:
Wonder how hard it would be to get a tape measure and compare bolt hole centerlines side to side with another car?

Would be tricky to do since the rear k-member bolts are somewhat recessed. You wouldn't be able to run a tape straight across.

Best way to get some quick measurements is to see if someone has a k-member sitting in a junk pile and can just measure the holes for me. I've sent an email to MM but who knows when they will respond.

Boostedpimp · Jan 23, 2019

although this isn't the k member measurements you asked for it may help some how some where... or not

Wayne Waldrep · Jan 23, 2019

I'm gonna say the brace is wrong. I just can't see the K-member being that far off. Just my opinion though....based on my incomplete brain contents

kendawg73 · Jan 23, 2019

my money is on the MM part is bad... I'm assuming you have it back off the car? I would call MM get someone on the phone and go over the mesurements of the MM brace and see if the tubes are the right length and spacing ect.

I've had my k-member out when I blasted it and painted it and fixed the rusted strut tower/frame rail area... it only goes back in one way, no adjustments (the bolt holes are not elongated or anything so it has no play/adjustment)... so there is really no way that can be that far off without seeing some kind of damage...

Also, even though u checked the part #, it still doesn't mean someone didn't slap it on the wrong part....

Boostedpimp · Jan 23, 2019

Yeah I'd call up that amazing tech support everyone loves and get your answer right now rather then way a few days on an email reply.

Mustang5L5 · Jan 23, 2019

kendawg73 said:
my money is on the MM part is bad... I'm assuming you have it back off the car? I would call MM get someone on the phone and go over the mesurements of the MM brace and see if the tubes are the right length and spacing ect.

I've had my k-member out when I blasted it and painted it and fixed the rusted strut tower/frame rail area... it only goes back in one way, no adjustments (the bolt holes are not elongated or anything so it has no play/adjustment)... so there is really no way that can be that far off without seeing some kind of damage...

I think you are right. I found info online that states 1988 has a measurement of 31 5/8" to the outside bolts in that location. The brace measures 28.5". That means there should only be 1.5" between the two bolts. If there is, then my car is off.

Looking at the pic..it looks a little more than 1.5"

Edit: found the info. 45mm or 1.8" is the spacing. That means the inner bolt holes should be 28".

The bar measures around 28.5". That looks like it's off 1/2" right?

Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - Archived Progress thread '08-'20.

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

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