Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - Archived Progress thread '08-'20.

Rdub6 · Dec 1, 2019

Mustang5L5 said:
Now my big oops. Needed 6.800” pushrods.... I ordered 7.800

My new Ford racing dipstick doesn’t fit the block hole. Need to investigate this.

Slowly getting there

lookin real nice! Hope I get to this stage with mine some day!

Mustang5L5 · Dec 1, 2019

Wayne Waldrep said:
I noticed in an earlier post you said 7.8 first then 6.8 the next sentence. I just thought it was a typo. It's my fault for not saying something!

The engine looks really good though!

I don't know how I brain-farted that one. I've had 6.800" written on my white-board for a week now. Guess I was just juggling too much a once. Oh well.

I bought from summit, so should be easy enough to return and get the right ones. Fortunately this isn't holding anything up

Mustang5L5 · Dec 1, 2019

02 281 GT said:
I used the same dipstick on my car. I had to use a bench grinder to wire wheel off the chrome plating where it goes into the block. That allowed it to fit nicely in the block.

You're just a magnet for NOS parts at great prices, aren't you?

That's what I figure i'd have to do. Shouldn't be too much work I guess.

When you've been gathering parts for this build for 4-5 years now...you have time to ebay search for all sorts of goodies. I'm also trying my best to avoid generic, or aftermarket parts and use quality or OEM stuff.

HotFox · Dec 1, 2019

To insure the pan not leaking, use a thin dab in the 4 corners and on the surfaces on both sides of the arches front and back. You can use black and wipe the excess. Those are off the shelf push rods right?

Mustang5L5 · Dec 1, 2019

Did the dabs. As much as I like the one piece I don’t trust it in the corners.

Yes, the pushrods are off-the-shelf

HotFox · Dec 1, 2019

As much as people blame the gasket I would say pans very in tolerance much more. It does take much to have a sep. My engine has been together for almost 8 years and has no seaping let alone a drip.

bird_dog0347 · Dec 1, 2019

Looks awesome, and can confirm that the Summit return/exchange process is simple, but I'm also 50 miles away from them so I did it in person.

Mustang5L5 · Dec 1, 2019

Anyone ever see this part in black? Or am I better off painting my existing?

Time to start refurbing various brackets and parts going back on the engine that aren’t new.

I trust my original 31 year old dist more than a reman

Wayne Waldrep · Dec 1, 2019

Mustang5L5 said:
Anyone ever see this part in black? Or am I better off painting my existing?

Time to start refurbing various brackets and parts going back on the engine that aren’t new.

I trust my original 31 year old dist more than a reman

I paint mine black. Never seen one made in black.

General karthief · Dec 1, 2019

I have a black one but it has a small chunk taken out of it, don't know where I got it from

Rdub6 · Dec 1, 2019

General karthief said:
I have a black one but it has a small chunk taken out of it, don't know where I got it from

I’m starting to think we could build a car from your spare parts pile.

General karthief · Dec 1, 2019

It can be done. I actually have a mustang (stunt double) waiting to be put together plus a stash of stuff for the exxon valdez. for
and a parts car.

Mustang5L5 · Dec 2, 2019

A little massaging of the dipstick and it went right in.

I realize the header needs to go on first. But it gives the illusion of progress.

Oh and ignore the FRAM oil filter. I had it kicking around and will just use it up until I do my first oil system prime. Then i'll toss a nice Motorcraft FL-1A on it

On my list of things to buy:
New pushrods (again)
Spring kit
Valve covers.

In the meantime, it’s time to refurb everything else and start putting it on the engine

Things like this

General karthief · Dec 2, 2019

Put a couple drops of oil on the nipple so it seeps into where the o ring (or plastic wedge, can't remember) seals the line before you install that heater tube.
just say'n.

Mustang5L5 · Dec 2, 2019

General karthief said:
Put a couple drops of oil on the nipple so it seeps into where the o ring (or plastic wedge, can't remember) seals the line before you install that heater tube.
just say'n.

I was wondering if I should replace the O-rings while i'm here...

How To: Repair Your Leaky Coolant Hardline. PICS

Tools Needed. A vice. Hammer or mallet. Tapered spindle (or something similar). Pick. Supplies needed. 2- O Rings (size 1/2 ID - 5/8 OD - 1/16 W. Can be found here www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=367_23_22&products_id=1111 ) Silicone Grease. A Scotch Brite pad...

www.stangnet.com

Or, since it wasn't leaking, I should just leave it alone and apply some oil and call it a day

General karthief · Dec 2, 2019

Not that hard to change if it does leak. Couple drips of oil and stick that dude on there.
what could go wrong?

bird_dog0347 · Dec 2, 2019

Mustang5L5 said:
A little massaging of the dipstick and it went right in.

That's what she said???

BlakeusMaximus · Dec 2, 2019

Mustang5L5 said:
A little massaging of the dipstick and it went right in.

I realize the header needs to go on first. But it gives the illusion of progress.

Oh and ignore the FRAM oil filter. I had it kicking around and will just use it up until I do my first oil system prime. Then i'll toss a nice Motorcraft FL-1A on it

On my list of things to buy:
New pushrods (again)
Spring kit
Valve covers.

In the meantime, it’s time to refurb everything else and start putting it on the engine

Things like this

I replaced my heater tube about a year ago Mike. I ordered it through a Ford dealer here in Albuquerque and it came from Denver. They still had some in stock. $75 + tax

Mustang5L5 · Dec 2, 2019

BlakeusMaximus said:
I replaced my heater tube about a year ago Mike. I ordered it through a Ford dealer here in Albuquerque and it came from Denver. They still had some in stock. $75 + tax

Did some searching. Part number is E6ZZ-9D424-B

I checked online and was able to get one for $53 plus shipping from Tasca.

Decided to buy new since it was in a visible spot on the motor. I also got new because the rust area around the egr nipple is a bit suspect.

BlakeusMaximus · Dec 2, 2019

Mustang5L5 said:
Did some searching. Part number is E6ZZ-9D424-B

I checked online and was able to get one for $53 plus shipping from Tasca.

Decided to buy new since it was in a visible spot on the motor. I also got new because the rust area around the egr nipple is a bit suspect.

Yeah Id replace that too Mike.

Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - Archived Progress thread '08-'20.

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

still married haven't seen testicles in years

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Before I post a pic, do you have one of yours?

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

still married haven't seen testicles in years

Still got to try a little lube on my speedo head

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Still got to try a little lube on my speedo head

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