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Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - Archived Progress thread '08-'20.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mustang5L5
  • Start date Start date Aug 2, 2008
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HotFox

15 Year Member
Jan 5, 2009
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SE Michigan
Jan 5, 2020
#1,721
  • Jan 5, 2020
  • #1,721
I have 2 styles, the blue would push on the top of the seal and probably be ok unless you were careless. I got dims for both but am just posting the silver as the double step grabs the outer body better. Diameter may vary depending on size my sample is .623 OD for a 11/32 stem.




 
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HotFox

15 Year Member
Jan 5, 2009
1,047
647
164
SE Michigan
Jan 5, 2020
#1,722
  • Jan 5, 2020
  • #1,722
The last 2 dims a counter bore depth.
 
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Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,176
17,879
224
Massachusetts
Jan 5, 2020
#1,723
  • Jan 5, 2020
  • #1,723
Very helpful. I’ll see what I have kicking around at work tomorrow
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,176
17,879
224
Massachusetts
Jan 6, 2020
#1,724
  • Jan 6, 2020
  • #1,724
Shims showed up, so I decided to try and set up a few cylinders



Was a slightly tedious process given installing the retainers and keepers. Install, measures, remove, shim, install, measure...and so on.

Valve seals weren’t s big deal. Found an appropriate driver. The metal shell version definitely is superior to the clamp ring style.

Spring install was no big deal with the proform tool.





And just becUse I had to see the final look.



Took me an hour to do 4 springs. Stopped for the night
 
Last edited: Jan 6, 2020
Reactions: 95BlueStallion, Olivethefet, Potomus Pete and 3 others

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
5 Year Member
Dec 29, 2017
3,952
2,932
153
Long Island, NY
Jan 6, 2020
#1,725
  • Jan 6, 2020
  • #1,725
Mustang5L5 said:
Shims showed up, so I decided to try and set up a few cylinders



Was a slightly tedious process given installing the retainers and keepers. Install, measures, remove, shim, install, measure...and so on.

Valve seals weren’t s big deal. Found an appropriate driver. The metal shell version definitely is superior to the clamp ring style.

Spring install was no big deal with the proform tool.





And just becUse I had to see the final look.
Click to expand...

Isn’t it funny how we just have to see the beauty and precision of things that no one else will sever see, much less understand! Awesome build build man.....hope to get to that point some day myself!!
 

Wayne Waldrep

Before I post a pic, do you have one of yours?
20+ Year Stangneter
Apr 14, 2003
1,338
659
143
Cuba, AL
Jan 6, 2020
#1,726
  • Jan 6, 2020
  • #1,726
So....I thought you were installing the blue metal shell valve stem seals? Don't I see the black ones in the new pics? I probably misread something. Excellent pics, like usual.
 
F

fox racer v2

Active Member
Jun 2, 2019
109
57
38
Brooklyn
Jan 6, 2020
#1,727
  • Jan 6, 2020
  • #1,727
Random question: few pages back you had the new heater tube. Can you grab a quick measurement of the spacing of the two tubes at the rear (leading to heater core) center on center? Just a rough estimate is plenty good for me if you have it easily accessible. No worries if not.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,176
17,879
224
Massachusetts
Jan 7, 2020
#1,728
  • Jan 7, 2020
  • #1,728
Wayne Waldrep said:
So....I thought you were installing the blue metal shell valve stem seals? Don't I see the black ones in the new pics? I probably misread something. Excellent pics, like usual.
Click to expand...

I reinstalled the black ones just to hold the valves in place. Without them, the valves slowly drop down into the cylinders. I'm doing the cylinders in pairs to have the cylinders up at the top of the bores to provent the valves from dropping, so i'm changing them out as I go. Less risk.

fox racer v2 said:
Random question: few pages back you had the new heater tube. Can you grab a quick measurement of the spacing of the two tubes at the rear (leading to heater core) center on center? Just a rough estimate is plenty good for me if you have it easily accessible. No worries if not.
Click to expand...

I can do that.

Rdub6 said:
Isn’t it funny how we just have to see the beauty and precision of things that no one else will sever see, much less understand! Awesome build build man.....hope to get to that point some day myself!!
Click to expand...

Thanks. I never knew the complexity that goes into building/assembling a motor. I didn't even tough th bottom end, and I know that's a whole different set of measurements and specs to adhere by. I have a newfound respect for those that build engines for a living having to crank these engines out quickly without the ability to stop and research each seperate action like i have.

I've taken my time here trying to research and do everything the best i can. Spent a few hundred on tools, and really crossing my fingers that i did everything right.

Next hurdle is adjusting the rockers. Just ordered an oil pump priming tool. Getting closer
 
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OldManRiver

Active Member
Feb 14, 2015
238
131
53
Central Wisconsin
Jan 7, 2020
#1,729
  • Jan 7, 2020
  • #1,729
Not sure what method you plan on using when figuring pushrod length,but I found the method used in this video to be the one I'll be using.Seems to make the most sense to me.
Edit:Nevermind,I see you already measured and ordered your pushrods.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5is9BsH5OU&list=LLQNKbpaaVUOBcXOlRWoEoew&index=22&t=0s
 
Last edited: Jan 7, 2020

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,176
17,879
224
Massachusetts
Jan 7, 2020
#1,730
  • Jan 7, 2020
  • #1,730
fox racer v2 said:
Random question: few pages back you had the new heater tube. Can you grab a quick measurement of the spacing of the two tubes at the rear (leading to heater core) center on center? Just a rough estimate is plenty good for me if you have it easily accessible. No worries if not.
Click to expand...


1.5” center to center
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,176
17,879
224
Massachusetts
Jan 7, 2020
#1,731
  • Jan 7, 2020
  • #1,731
Did another cylinder tonight. Took me about 25 min to do 2 springs.

Some random pics for those who like pics







3 cyl done, 5 to go.

 
Reactions: Boostedpimp, Wayne Waldrep, Potomus Pete and 5 others

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,176
17,879
224
Massachusetts
Jan 7, 2020
#1,732
  • Jan 7, 2020
  • #1,732
Also, bought myself some silver thermal paste for the TFI when I “restore” my dist. $7 for a tube.

I kinda thought it be bigger
 

stanglx2002

CT Material here
15 Year Member
Jul 7, 2005
1,563
1,110
164
Jan 7, 2020
#1,733
  • Jan 7, 2020
  • #1,733
So what made you change the valve seals over the ones that came on the heads? I am going to be rebuilding my heads soon, and want to pick out the right style. Your attention to detail is very helpful.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
Aug 25, 2016
27,844
10,520
203
polk county florida
Jan 7, 2020
#1,734
  • Jan 7, 2020
  • #1,734
Mustang5L5 said:
Also, bought myself some silver thermal paste for the TFI when I “restore” my dist. $7 for a tube.

I kinda thought it be bigger
Click to expand...
^^^ ^^^
 
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F

fox racer v2

Active Member
Jun 2, 2019
109
57
38
Brooklyn
Jan 7, 2020
#1,735
  • Jan 7, 2020
  • #1,735
Mustang5L5 said:
1.5” center to center
Click to expand...

Thanks, appreciate it!
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,176
17,879
224
Massachusetts
Jan 7, 2020
#1,736
  • Jan 7, 2020
  • #1,736
stanglx2002 said:
So what made you change the valve seals over the ones that came on the heads? I am going to be rebuilding my heads soon, and want to pick out the right style. Your attention to detail is very helpful.
Click to expand...

New ones are supplied with the spring kit. They seemed much sturdier than the ones TFS supplies.

Also, the act of pulling the old ones off does kinda nick them up a bit, so the fact that I have brand new ones in the package to install is sort of a no-brainer when you consider the issues surrounding reinstalling potentially damaged ones.
 
Last edited: Jan 8, 2020
Reactions: General karthief

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,176
17,879
224
Massachusetts
Jan 9, 2020
#1,737
  • Jan 9, 2020
  • #1,737
Done. Too bad I have to put valve covers over these

 
Reactions: Boostedpimp, Jersey Joe, Olivethefet and 12 others

JCBeaver

Active Member
Mar 23, 2018
124
70
38
San Diego, CA
Jan 9, 2020
#1,738
  • Jan 9, 2020
  • #1,738
looks spiffy!!!
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
5 Year Member
Dec 29, 2017
3,952
2,932
153
Long Island, NY
Jan 9, 2020
#1,739
  • Jan 9, 2020
  • #1,739
I’d say a full wire tuck, engine bay smooth, etc., is in order so that fine piece has a proper home!
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,176
17,879
224
Massachusetts
Jan 9, 2020
#1,740
  • Jan 9, 2020
  • #1,740
So, all that's left to do is adjust the rocker arms. Still haven't purchased valve covers yet (I honestly can't decide) but i'll take a page out of @TOOLOW91 book and slap the stock ones on for now so they don't get scratched up when I reinstall the motor...which isn't going to be anytime soon. I just want to get a cover on there now to keep crap out.

SO...for rocker arm adjustment, I have them set to zero lash right now. These are brand spanking new lifters, and while I can feel the spring in them and can tell they are fully lifted up, do I need to prime the oil system first and then set the lifter preload, or can I do it on dry lifters?

The install instructions say set to zero preload, and then go 1/2 turn past and lock it in place. Sound good?

I do have my oil pump priming tool arriving today? Should i toss some oil in it and prime everything up? Would give me a chance to verify pressure with my guage, as well as oil the top end up, fill the lifters, and just verify all the rockers are getting oil before i button it up.

I ordered a new engine stand to allow me to put the engine down and bolt the flywheel/clutch/bell and trans up. Should be in the mail shortly.



OH, BTW, the valve spring install got quicker once i got the hang of what i was doing. Took me about 2 hours to do it on the engine. I made it easier by already having all the springs off anyway. I intitially balked at the idea of buying the $65 Proform valve spring tool for what would be almost a one time use really. The compressors i could rent were crap. Only reason i breezed through this install was due to this particular valve spring compessor. It made the job a breeze. SO easy to use and no damage to any components or cursing or swearing on my part. Having the right tools really does make the job easier
 
Reactions: Olivethefet, 90sickfox and General karthief
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