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My 1970 Mustang project - Frame/Floorpan/Subframes.

  • Thread starter Thread starter BlackGMC
  • Start date Start date Feb 19, 2007
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BlackGMC

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Feb 6, 2007
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Apr 24, 2007
#121
  • Apr 24, 2007
  • #121
Well I got tired of looking at the bad beads so I redid the two back panels and added a few more beads to the front one.

 
3

351w_swap

New Member
May 23, 2004
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Apr 24, 2007
#122
  • Apr 24, 2007
  • #122
Its been a while. I just took some pictures and I'm going to update my thread too. Good work.
 
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BlackGMC

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Feb 6, 2007
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Apr 24, 2007
#123
  • Apr 24, 2007
  • #123
351w_swap said:
Its been a while. I just took some pictures and I'm going to update my thread too. Good work.
Click to expand...


yeah, redoing the two panels kinda pissed me off so I decided to take a break and I am still recovering from the IRS payment..... Progress shall resume in a week or two, I am going on vacation this weekend....
 
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351w_swap

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May 23, 2004
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#124
  • Apr 24, 2007
  • #124
I read IRS and got all excited (Independent Rear Suspension). Sometimes redoing work does get discouraging but I bet you are happy now that you redid it. I hope you get back to it fast, I enjoy reading this post.
 
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BlackGMC

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#125
  • Apr 24, 2007
  • #125
Speaking of getting back to it.

Just in case anyone was wondering how to plan these panels, I use poster board and cut out pieces as mock up. Then I transfer it to sheet metal. It is much easier fine tuning a piece of poster board with scissors than a grinder with sheet metal. Not to mention the fact that if and when you have to redo a panel you already have a panel made.


tunnel




floorpan and seat pan

 
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351w_swap

New Member
May 23, 2004
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Apr 24, 2007
#126
  • Apr 24, 2007
  • #126
I use poster board to mock up all small parts first too. I am confused by the one in the bottom picture with all the lines on it though. Are you going to bead roll all those lines? Looks like a ton of work to roll that out.
 
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BlackGMC

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Apr 24, 2007
#127
  • Apr 24, 2007
  • #127
Yep I am planning on rolling all those lines. It really is not that bad once you get goin and since I beefed up my roller rolling them is really not bad at all. The seat pan I did took about 30 min so I am thinkin this floor pan will take about an hour.
 

RogerC62

Founding Member
Feb 2, 2000
833
11
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Dayton, Ohio
Apr 27, 2007
#128
  • Apr 27, 2007
  • #128
Ok, BlackGMC and 351w_swap, you got me thinking with the issue of running the exhaust out the back with your crossmembers in the way. I came up with an idea I'm going to use. Here's a picture of a quick layout I did in AutoCad. The center triangular opening is large enough for the driveshaft & 2 exhaust pipes. The small oval openings will be for fuel/brake lines and battery cables. I'll weld it up out of 11 ga. sheet metal.

click the thumbnail, there is an image there.
 

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351w_swap

New Member
May 23, 2004
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Apr 27, 2007
#129
  • Apr 27, 2007
  • #129
The crossmember was never the problem, at least not for me. My suspension will hit it if I run it out the back. Not to mention the relative ease of running it out the sides when compared to running it past the crossmember.
 
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BlackGMC

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Apr 27, 2007
#130
  • Apr 27, 2007
  • #130
You solution looks good, but I took the simple approach and cut out reliefs in the crossmember. I still have to clean up the cuts and box it back in but, I think it is going to work. Funny, lookin at the pic I see about 3-4 freakin sharpies layin around... No wonder I keep loosing those things..


 

RogerC62

Founding Member
Feb 2, 2000
833
11
38
Dayton, Ohio
Apr 28, 2007
#131
  • Apr 28, 2007
  • #131
I definately want my exhaust out the back and since the back seat will no longer be there this looked like I good idea to me. The new tunnel will end at the crossmember coming from the firewall. The space between it and the right rear wheelwell looks like a good place for the battery and amps. The bad part is I probably won't get the steel till fall because of other upcoming expenses. I have to pay the IRS also.

Nice sharpie collection you have there BlackGMC!
 
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BlackGMC

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May 3, 2007
#132
  • May 3, 2007
  • #132
Well I had some free time so I decided to go ahead and make the rear floor board. It turned out pretty good, except the sheet distorted quite a bit while I was rolling all those damn beads. But I was able to get it straighten out. Oh and that piece of angle iron screwed to the sheet is just temporay until I can weld the floor in. Oh and I made another piece to connect the seat pan to the tunnel.

Oh and you gotta love all that flash rust!! It is easy to take off, but man it looks bad in this pic.



 

68FBJJZ109

Member
May 2, 2005
357
0
17
Easton, PA
May 4, 2007
#133
  • May 4, 2007
  • #133
Looking Great, very impressed with your work. When school is out I need to take the lead of ouf my pants and get cracking you'll have yours done before mine...
 
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BlackGMC

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Feb 6, 2007
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May 6, 2007
#134
  • May 6, 2007
  • #134
I finally started welding today. I got tired of looking at all those screws. The rear panel is almost complete, I still need to fab up a mount/plate for the roll bar to sit on.

 
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BlackGMC

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Feb 6, 2007
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May 7, 2007
#135
  • May 7, 2007
  • #135
Finished up the main hoop mounting point today. What a PIA, turned out good thou IMO..



 

68FBJJZ109

Member
May 2, 2005
357
0
17
Easton, PA
May 8, 2007
#136
  • May 8, 2007
  • #136
Very Impressive, Should make a great Main hoop mounting point.
 
S

Shane54

New Member
Sep 4, 2001
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Las Vegas
May 9, 2007
#137
  • May 9, 2007
  • #137
is that roll bar for the mustang or no and is it just the loop or does it have the down tubes with it I want one like that for mine.
 
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BlackGMC

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Feb 6, 2007
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May 9, 2007
#138
  • May 9, 2007
  • #138
Shane54 said:
is that roll bar for the mustang or no and is it just the loop or does it have the down tubes with it I want one like that for mine.
Click to expand...

Yea the roll bar is for a mustang and currently it is just the main hoop. I will add the down tubes to it once I start working on the mini tubs. If you just want the main hoop you can buy just the main hoop. I bought a Comp Engineering main hoop threw Orielly's auto parts. I think it was only like ~50-60 bucks, if you buy it threw Orielly's there is no shipping and/or freight charges.
 
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BlackGMC

New Member
Feb 6, 2007
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May 17, 2007
#139
  • May 17, 2007
  • #139
I finally finished with yard work and some landscaping so I was able to get another panel rolled and fitted into place last night. Even thou I screwed a piece of sheet for the seat pan, I had the flanging dies tightened down to far and basically sheered a piece of sheet..... This weekend I plan to start cleaning up some of the surface rust, which is starting to piss me off....

 
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BlackGMC

New Member
Feb 6, 2007
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May 18, 2007
#140
  • May 18, 2007
  • #140
A little more progress today, I ran out of gas so I had to stop....

The drivers side is almost done.

 
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