Jeez that's looking nice man.While I was racking my brain about the thermactor air tube at least I got something done.
Hasn't been any progress due to the family vacation this past week, but today I jumped back in and got no where, trying to remove the dipstick tube to install the headers and it will not budge. I'm thinking I should of tried getting it out before I put the new heads on, I had this crazy idea I could work the tubes around the stick since they were shorties.....wrong. Before I get really angry and destroy the tube any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.
Thanks Boosted, after I was done whining I took a better look at it and thought about what you said , I got a little rough with it, took the collector studs out of it, and forced it in there with tube in place, don't know how much coating is left on them ?
You know the whole time I was trying to get it out I was saying to myself, no way this thing is gonna go back in ! Now I just gotta figure out how I'm gonna get the collector studs tight, can't get my hands in there , figure maybe I'll double nut it from the bottom before I put the X pipe on and see if that tightens them up without getting the nut stuck on it.No worries man, I'm glad you got it. Look at it this way, you know it's tight in the block, it won't leak oil there.
Trust me it crossed my mind, I had the damn thing wedged in there pretty good and was wondering for awhile how I was gonna get it out. i should of used my brain and put them in before the heads but I didn't anticipate the tube being such a problem since it seems to literally fall out in everything I read.If you super glue or loctite the studs and let them dry it'll make it easier to break the double nut loose with a single socket. Sorry I forgot to mention it earlier... DUR, but if you get an impact and zip the motor mount nut loose on the side you are working on.. and jack up on the bottom of the motor it makes header installation a lot easier.. Don't shoot me.
I used those myself and never had a problem. Fel-Pro's blew out within a couple weeks. Not a fan. I do like the copper rtv idea also.when those fel-pros fail (about a 75% chance imo), look into these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/php-66014/overview/make/ford
dead soft aluminum, thick, and reusable. used them on my shorty bbk's that i'm guessing were slightly warped (had been on and off about 20 times by the time i sold them) and kept killing the fel-pros in less than 5 minutes, not one single exhaust tick after using the percys.
I thought you were supposed to meet the required torque within the 1/4 to 1 turn, if not you needed shims?I felt the same way doing mine on my old '95. I wasnt sure I had done it right, but the car ended up running great. Hopefully you have the same luck.
Are you tightening the rocker down till there is no slack between the push rod/roller rocker and then giving it a 1/4 to 1 turn after that?Set up the valve train but not real sure I'm happy with it, after setting zero lash I tightened it down a 1/2 turn, some of the poly locks would offer some resistance at the end of this half turn, the rest offered no resistance. I'm thinking I might go ahead and prime the motor and do it again, I'm not sure if some of the lifter had bled down while some stayed pumped up ?
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