My balancer doesn't go on like it did before

[Nicoleb3x3]

I KNOW my balancer has fully been pushed in and you can feel it hit while it seats (it's not hard to push on)

I don't understand why I have this gap where I know the seal previously met up with the next ridge on the balancer...see pic with the gap shown.

I beleive my crank sprocket must be deeper/thicker than the old one...it's the only thing that would make sense to me. Its the same crank, balancer and seal I had before, but with a new timing set from comp cams and yes it's meant for the 302. I did recently build this engine and it has all new crank bearings and everything, and i'm worried now....did I mess something up?

I'm worried my seal will leak if it doesn't meet up at that next ledge on the balancer.

 

[95Vert383AOD]

Another issue is that the Crank Pulley wont line up because of this. Gotta ask...but you did press the balancer on with the crank bolt & washer right? Thats how i seat the balancer on. When the crank bolt in the middle stops turning...then its seated. You may have to stick a screw driver threw the balancer to keep it in place. You never wack the balancer onto the crank. If you have to you do it just so the crank bolt can start threading and you use a wood block to do so. But in the end you have to turn that crank bolt while holding the balancer still to make it seat.

Chris

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

I didn't tighten the crank bolt, but instead used an INSTALLER to make SURE it was all the way on. ...beleive me; it's bottomed out

now what?

 

[95Vert383AOD]

Theres gonna be alot of seemingly dumb questions here but....

Is the bottom sprocket seated all the way down?

Have you tried hand turning the crank with a ratchet and just the bolt in it and inspect the timing gears as they turn? (with no plugs in it should turn fairly easy)

Is it a 5.0 balancer/ Timing Cover/ Crank?

What has changed since you pulled the front apart? Was it just the Timing chain?

If so Compare Sprockets, More importantly the thickness of sprockets. (i always compare old parts to new parts, especially if its supposed to be stock replacement.)

If its fully seated, then the end of the crank should be level with the inner ring of the harmonic balancer where the washer would meet.

Chris

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

I recently rebuilt the engine:

crank is the same
timing cover is the same (is a jegs timing cover)

I don't have the oil pan on yet, so I checked and yes the crank sproket is all way way up against the crank, I couldn't slide anything behind it.

I've already turned the engine over several times while installing parts. I can easily turn with 2 fingers before I installed rocker arms, now it's a tougher to turn and I need a breaker bar only since installing rockers/pushrods and this is after the timing set was installed.

The timing set and crank are all new and just installed

I've seriously been investigating and staring at this problem for over an hour, I I think the damn crank sprocket is thicker...it HAS TO BE.

I've had the crank bolt in before and turned the engine over with the balancer on, but this was only tight enough to turn the engine over.

I also used an installer tool which threads into the crank and pulls the balancer on, it kept bottoming out and it will not move any further in; and it slides on very easily up to that point.

I'm at a loss here, the only thing I can do is check with comp cams about this sprocket stamped with # 2220B and see if was incorrectly put in my timing set!

Nicole

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

and yes, same exact balancer 5.0 replacement I used before
I have a "before" picture and it previously was installed perfectly with the OLD timing chain set. It definately used to meet up ....see where my lines are showing in my picture this gap was not there.

 

[95Vert383AOD]

Have you compared the old timing cover to the jegs? .....As long as the seal meets the balancer it should not leak though

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

don't forget I used the SAME timing cover, balancer and crank as before. Everything came apart and everything is new except those items- specifically related to this issue I replaced the bearings and timing chain and sprockets.

I can't seem to tell by eye if maybe the sprocket built-in spacer is the same or not...I might need to waiting for a reply from comp-cams to verify the sprocket # 2220B belongs to my set.

 

[95Vert383AOD]

You try flipping the bottom sprocket around?

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

lol, no; the spacer portion goes to the crank/back
the timing mark goes in the front

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

Now that I've been staring at all my pictures before/after and staring at the sprocket with the old one...I'm 80% sure it's the sprocket is WRONG......calling comp cams tomorrow to check this part # on the sprocket

 

[71swing]

your gasket set you used to put the timing cover back on would have came with a new seal for the cover to crank shaft. Did you replace this seal or did you use the same old seal.

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

No I didn't replace the seal, it was in perfect condition

But the seal wouldn't make a difference on this gap right?

 

[strtrcr50]

If your balancer is sitting that much further out, won't you also have belt alignment problems?

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

probably...

comp cams not open until tomorrow...I'm going to give them a call
I'd much rather take off the timing cover and replace the sprocket...at least it's a solution

Does anyone see a need to replace the seal if it was in pefect condition? (incase I have to take the cover off...)

 

[95Vert383AOD]

I believe usually Felpro Sells that gasket in a kit with the wather pump and timing cover gasket. If the old one has mileage on it and you're in there its just good measure to change it. Seems fords are notorious for developing a leak there in my past experience. You can use the old one....but if it leaks in the future do you really want to pull off the brackets, water pump, balancer, timing cover AGAIN while the motor is in the car just to change it???

Its for preventative measures.

Chris

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

well, I guess I'll change it out if I have to re-do teh timing cover; it was "like new" condition though...it's 2 year old with maybe 25k miles?

ANYWAYS; UPDATE; called comp cams today and the guy pulled a few off the shelf and none of them are stamped with teh 2220B number on them. He has to check with his purchasing dept to see about 2 different suppliers one of them might stamp this number on the part....anyways; no luck yet confirming if the sprocket is right/wrong

they're going to call me back....

 

[EMW150]

well, I guess I'll change it out if I have to re-do teh timing cover; it was "like new" condition though...it's 2 year old with maybe 25k miles?

ANYWAYS; UPDATE; called comp cams today and the guy pulled a few off the shelf and none of them are stamped with teh 2220B number on them. He has to check with his purchasing dept to see about 2 different suppliers one of them might stamp this number on the part....anyways; no luck yet confirming if the sprocket is right/wrong

they're going to call me back....

To be honest with you, I wouldn't take Comp's word for it. Measure the thickness of your old timing gear and compare with what you just installed or if you don't have the old timing gears, measure and post the results here. I have several used sets I can measure for you for a comparison. That gap shouldn't be there.

 

[95Vert383AOD]

To be honest with you, I wouldn't take Comp's word for it. Measure the thickness of your old timing gear and compare with what you just installed or if you don't have the old timing gears, measure and post the results here. I have several used sets I can measure for you for a comparison. That gap shouldn't be there.

+1

Just like i said....Compare!!!

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

I was hoping comp cams could verify it's WRONG, but today they said this is the correct gear.
Because I feel there's not much else happening with this installation, I going to pull the cover this weekend.

I have the old gear, once I pull the cover I'll know for sure either way

unless anyone else has any other ideas?