my battery cables almost welded themselves to the battery

[5.0Torx]

my battery cables almost welded themselves to the battery (pics)

hey all

my 2G alt just went dead, so i went to pick up a 3G alt from autozone today and i got 4 gauge wires and stuff for the installation. I think i have everything i need, except for a fuse between the alternator power output and the start solenoid. I simply couldnt find one here in town so for now i have to go ghetto until i can order one from the internet. Anyways, i got everything buttoned up, i think. I just went to put the battyer cables on and SPAAAAAAAAAAZ there was a gigantic spark, and the battery registered .02 volts. completely dead. Just got it back from recharging at autozone, and the battery survived.

What should i do?

i have pics if that would help.

I have a 4 gauge wire going from the starter solenoid to the alt, and a brand new 4 gauge wire going from batt positive to the SS. then i have a big ol 2 gauge wire from batt negative to the factory engine ground location. Is this ok?

TIA

 

[jrichker]

Stangnet 3G install sticky - shows how to wire it correctly. See http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=646825

 

[5.0Torx]

yes, i read that several times before i even got started today. i think i have evertying the way its supposed to be, and yet it fried my battery. the monkeys at AZ told me to check and make sure i didnt switch my cables, and i dont. the neg is going to the factory location on the black (via 2g wire) and the pos is going to the pos side of the S.S. (via 4g wire). Then 4g wire from the pos side of S.S. (no fuse, yet) to the alt output. is that correct?

am i supposed to remove the cable with the red tape at the top from the pos side of the S.S.? is that red cable the old 2g alt wiring?

 

[5.0Torx]

heres some pics

 

[5.0Torx]

i would also just like to add that it was sparking like crazy, and then all the wires got really hot (while the battery was discharging, obviously). i just dont get it. I have it all wired up the way the threads say to. What did i do wrong?

 

[5.0Torx]

i got it figured out.

to everyone who is considering doing a 3g, or flipping out because theyve done it wrong and need their car in x hours, follow this link: http://www.bcbroncos.com/3ginstall.pdf


that is the way i have it now, and that fixed my problems. There seem to be many ways of doing this, none of them "wrong". I had my stator plug from the wrong source, and didnt have a yellow-wire splice at all. there are many different picture diagrams of how to wire these, and some of them dont have this yellow-wire splice going to the output stud on the back. I dont know how to explain it, but i followed a different diagram before i followed the link above, and my battery completely discharged. After i followed the link above (yes, LOOP the wires straight to the stator plug AND the output stud) my car fired right up. defroster on full blast, high beams, and stereo cranked up (2 1000 watt subs and aftermarket speakers) all the way, the voltmeter in the dash went down maybe 1/4 of a notch. absolutely amazing!

 

[tbovee]

You should be able to get a fuse at a stereo shop. I think I got one from Pep Boys in their stereo area one time.

 

[jrichker]

The BC Bronco method works good for a Mustang made before 1986. The 86 and later models use the following setup.

On a Mustang 86-93, the stator wire is the small white/black wire in the same plug as the two larger black.orange wires.

Remove the negative cable from the battery for safety reasons.

Black/orange wires get taped up out of the way and not used. Do not remove or mangle the plug on the end of the wires.

Small 3 wire plug used as is, no changes. It plugs into the same connector on the new alternator.

White/black wire on the plug where the Black/orange wires connect gets insulation stripped from it. Splice another wire onto it to make a Y. Solder the connection and use heat shrink tubing on it to cover the splice joint. Crimp a female 1/4" push on terminal on the new wire or use a connector from an old wiring harness.

Plug the 3 wire plug into the alternator.

Plug the white wire you spliced the into the little tab on the alternator.

Connect the fused 4 gauge wire to the alternator and the battery side of the starter solenoid.

Starter solenoid wiring with a Mini starter or 92-93 5.0 Mustang

I ran the 4 gauge wire under the front of the engine next to the 4 gauge wire for the starter power feed.
It came up the same path as the fuel injector supply lines, and gets bolted to the power output lug of the 3G alternator. The 125 amp fuse is mounted on a plastic panel bolted to the stock ignition coil mounts. One of side of the fuse has a 4 gauge wire connected to the battery side of the starter solenoid & the other to the 4 gauge power feed wire for the alternator.
Reconnect the battery negative cable.

Wiring is now finished. Check to make sure it is all neat and clean and everything is out of harms way. Start the car and check your voltage.

I had some 1" silicone aircraft heat shield tubing that I fed the 4 gauge alternator power feed wire through and tie wrapped & clamped it in place with some aircraft cushion clamps. That provided the wire extra protection from road debris and rocks. Some heater hose could be used to do the same thing.

I have an additional 4 gauge ground running from the power steering pump mount to the common chassis ground being pointed to in the photo.

Picture courtesy timewarped1972

Apart from the grinding I did on the mount bracket, there wasn't much to it. Rather than just grind a notch, I ground the whole web back to the thick part of the bracket. It looks much more factory that way.

See WWW.partsexpress.com for the fuse & fuse holder.
Fuse @ $3.90 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-952

Fuseholder @ $5.80 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=263-630

4 gauge black wire @ $1.95 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-196

4 gauge red wire @ $1.95 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-194

4 gauge ring crimp terminals (package of 5) $3.25. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=095-584


3/4 “ Black heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.56
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=082-058

3/4 “ Red heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.56
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=082-064

Pre-fab 4 gauge cables with lugs already on the ends are available in most auto parts stores. Look for the starter switch to starter cables.

3G tech data:

See http://www.geocities.com/smithmonte/Auto/3G_130A_Alternator_Upgrade.htm - all the tech data you could ever want to know
OR
http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/alternator.html - excellent pictures of installation

 

[5.0Torx]

thats what im talking about. I dont really know how to explain it, jcichker, because you are alot more knolwedgable about this stuff than i am, but i followed the picture that you have posted above and my battery completely dumped charge. after i followed the BC Bronco method, she fired right up and worked perfectly. Mine is a 1993. You can see in the last pic i posted, the plug in the air there is the old 2g power plug, with the last wire spliced, and i carried that over to the alt via the red wire i had laying around. you can also see that i didnt have the yellow wire splied and hooked up to the output stud, just as your diagram calls for. to fix the problem i rewired it to follow the BC Bronco diagram.

So i just wanted to get the word out there that its possible that youll have to switch between the two diagrams if one doesnt work. Mine was in an accident (salvage title) so i suppose its possible my car was wired differently than ford wired them in 93, but i really cant see how any one could justify rewiring a 93 to a pre-86. I really dont know how to explain it.

 

[68stang351]

Autozone should have the fuse as well, that's where I got mine at. I need a holder for mine though, which I'm getting from Ron Francis Wiring.