well, after much frustration I took it to the dealer. They agree with everyone here that the caliper is bad and for the same reasons. I said "how much", they said nearly $500. I said "I'll be by to pick it up asap, I'll do it myself" Guy there was cool, only charged me a $20 inspection fee. Picked up 2 rebuilt calipers (PBR) from advanced autoparts. Got some speed bleeders too. Will put it all on this friday when I have some free time.
thanks for all the input. My wife had her doubts as to me getting diagnostics from people online that haven't seen the car... she's a believer now
thanks for all the input. My wife had her doubts as to me getting diagnostics from people online that haven't seen the car... she's a believer now
well, 2 months later and I HOPE my saga is coming to an end. I bought new calipers (rebuilt at Advance) for 44 bux each. Took the rotors in to be turned, found out they were all pitted. Oreilly people said it looked like heat spots. To me it looked like someone beat them with a hammer
I went with the Wagners with the lifetime warr. American made
so, I go to install them friday and one of the calipers had an issue. My torque wrench never clicked at 15lbs (worked fine on drivers side) when I installed the brake line. Stripped all the threads out. I'm guessing they were already weak since I put very little pressure on it. Returned it, got my replacement today.
INstalled it, the new rotors, pads. Used antiseize and synth brake lube (did a TON of reading here!). I have hte front on jack stands, so I go to the right rear to start the bleeding. Decided to run the old stuff out and put all new fluid in. Bleeding is going well, the fluid goes from coffee brown to beer gold. Bolt up the wheel, move around to the left rear.
Notice the smell of fluid. Look at the front left and see fluid all over the floor. Turns out, the 15lbs of tq I put on that bolt wasn't enough. Tightened it up some more and went back to bleeding.
When I finally got to that wheel, I noticed a TON of air in the lines. It was all bubbly looking. I guess it's because it was sucking air the whole time? Good thing the caliper was empty eh? Took several trys to bleed that one, but finally got it bubble free.
Overall, it was an experience. Dealer wanted 250 to change front pads, I bought pads for 60 bux.
Turns out I had bad calipers (75k on the original brakes!) Try slide pins and everything. Finally took it to the dealer to see what the issue was. They said replace calipers and machine rotors... $489. I said no thanks
bought new calipers and rotors for 200 bux. So, in the long run, I replaced the main brake parts on the front for what the dealer wanted just to change pads. It took 2 months working on and off, but I learned a lot.
Now, I just hope it all works when I drive it tomorrow
I have a few pics here http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a348/ggaskin/Cars/Mustang/
new ball joints. Did the old ones have Zerks? I thought I read they didn't
I went with the Wagners with the lifetime warr. American made
so, I go to install them friday and one of the calipers had an issue. My torque wrench never clicked at 15lbs (worked fine on drivers side) when I installed the brake line. Stripped all the threads out. I'm guessing they were already weak since I put very little pressure on it. Returned it, got my replacement today.
INstalled it, the new rotors, pads. Used antiseize and synth brake lube (did a TON of reading here!). I have hte front on jack stands, so I go to the right rear to start the bleeding. Decided to run the old stuff out and put all new fluid in. Bleeding is going well, the fluid goes from coffee brown to beer gold. Bolt up the wheel, move around to the left rear.
Notice the smell of fluid. Look at the front left and see fluid all over the floor. Turns out, the 15lbs of tq I put on that bolt wasn't enough. Tightened it up some more and went back to bleeding.
When I finally got to that wheel, I noticed a TON of air in the lines. It was all bubbly looking. I guess it's because it was sucking air the whole time? Good thing the caliper was empty eh? Took several trys to bleed that one, but finally got it bubble free.
Overall, it was an experience. Dealer wanted 250 to change front pads, I bought pads for 60 bux.
Turns out I had bad calipers (75k on the original brakes!) Try slide pins and everything. Finally took it to the dealer to see what the issue was. They said replace calipers and machine rotors... $489. I said no thanks
bought new calipers and rotors for 200 bux. So, in the long run, I replaced the main brake parts on the front for what the dealer wanted just to change pads. It took 2 months working on and off, but I learned a lot.
Now, I just hope it all works when I drive it tomorrow
I have a few pics here http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a348/ggaskin/Cars/Mustang/
new ball joints. Did the old ones have Zerks? I thought I read they didn't