Yeah the last time I priced what I wanted from liberty it was pushing 4k with the clutch...
Yeah the last time I priced what I wanted from liberty it was pushing 4k with the clutch...so called astro today (they actually had parts listed online unlike others) and ordered $800+ worth of parts
1-2 synchro assembly
3-4 synchro
2nd gear
3rd gear
3 carbon blocker rings
so for those keeping count and comparing to new, this whole tko setup has now cost about $2600 for the trans, bell, pro-5.0 shifter, alum d/s, and new yoke, and the upgraded synchro's. i see most places advertise ~$2400 for just a basic tko500 plus the bell and upgrades, so i figure i'm still somewhat ahead, though not by much.
That price tag is the reason why I'm still rowing the T5. I'm horrible at selling stuff myself. I always put what I think is a good price and don't dicker. It either sells or I keep it. Good luck in getting the trans together.4k, yikes. my wallets hurting enough from buying a t5 rebuild kit i ended up not using and then this tko setup. thank goodness i get to do some o.t. over the next couple days at least to make up for it. was also able to sell of the old t5, the un-opened rebuild kit, p-heads, explorer intake, and some other odds and ends, not for a whole lot (im horrible at selling stuff) but at least its out of my way. ironically, i ended up selling all that junk to the same guy i bought the trans from, go figure.
tony at astro just called me as he was packing up the stuff, as long as ups dont screw up it should be here by thursday, hopefully i can either get some help putting it in then, or figure out a way to do it myself so i can go racing saturday.
You guys are not making this sound good for when mine gets here .Man be careful doing it yourself. I did my 3550 install myself and then walked around like quasi moto for a week because my back was so jacked up, amd I'm only 28!
Well I should add that I tried to lift it in myself like you can with a t5. Definitely use a jack with these.Oh, and im 31 and my back feels fine
I'm in the process of trying to build a bigger spacer for the cable because I don't like it turned out that far . I love the cable but just much more play win the new bell and pivot . My t5 it was only out 2 turns and grabbed low off the floor like I wanted it . So I am working on that as we speakso i FINALLY made some good progress on this. trans is in, everything is hooked up, and other than a small exhaust leak between the h-pipe and flow tube, it runs again. just gotta wait on rain to go away so i can make sure my trans repairs actually work. so for now, i'll just post some pics of what steps i've been taking the last couple of weeks since i last updated.
broken trans case
a guy from stlmustangs was able to weld it back up that weekend, but while working on it, he found a crack at the base of the snout of the bearing retainer, so i then had to wait a few days for that. unfortunately, no pics of the weld, but it came out pretty good considering his machine was probably just a hair too small and he had to do two passes with it.
when i dropped the trans, i also found a crushed piece of fuel line. assuming this happened a month or so ago when i tried to put a jackstand under the k-member instead of my usual spot under the frame connectors and the car fell onto the jack a bit. wondering if this is why it felt a bit soft on the top end of the track/rpm range.
offending piece of line (its almost completely pinched off in the middle)
and some new line spliced in; double flared, tube nuts, unions, and a pre-made 6" patch of 5/16" tube. tested it this morning and no leaks, cost about $10-15 vs buying a whole new line:
after several attempts with a helping hand, and the clutch disc slipping down 4 times, i finally got the trans in BY MYSELF!!!!!!! took a couple 6" long studs in the lower holes of the bell, trans in 4th gear, and my old bent yoke to be able to get it in there, but its finally in!!!
since it came up in @TOOLOW91 's thread, it seems the outer billow/boot of the output seal wanted to keep folding in on itself. i stabbed the d/s in 3 times, and everytime i pushed it in far enough for the back end to clear the pinion nut, the seal collapsedtheres still about 3/4" worth of travel in the yoke here though with the rear at full droop, and it doesnt seem to be leaking (like i mentioned in the other thread, the actual part that looks like a normal seal is actually further forward into the tailhousing casting). i think i can still get a small screwdriver up in there and de-collapse it if needed though.
i also decided to put in a new clutch cable and fwa. i was using a mm cable and steeda adjuster, and while i had no tangible complaints about either, i figured i'd just go ahead and freshen it up to make sure it wasn't stretching, so a new mm cable and mm fwa were ordered. since i had both in had, figured i'd compare the steeda (blue) and mm (black)fwa's too.
as you see, the steeda is a bit beefier, might have just a touch more range, and has that click-lock thing going on to keep it from backing off, but as far as ease of use, the mm wins. the threads on the mm are coarser, and it turns more freely. you can see on the steeda (which i've had a LONG time) i've had to use pliers on it a few times to be able to get it adjusted just right. so at least for now, the mm wins, at least until it vibrates itself loose (please dont let that last statement jinx me).
Yeah I used it it works but for me I'm used to how the t5 was I had the adjusted barely turned so I guess that's what I am chasing I don't want a hard pedal at allMm sent a spacer that goes between the cable end and quad fork, i was back and forth on using it, i can always put it in later if I don't like it.
looks like i'm going to be throwing the spacer in. i like it to release in the middle-ish of travel or higher, i hate it being on the floor and having a whole bunch of "dead space" in the upper range like my coyote does.Yeah I used it it works but for me I'm used to how the t5 was I had the adjusted barely turned so I guess that's what I am chasing I don't want a hard pedal at all
Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
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