????? thats just where the fuel line sits stock, and the stock schrader valve isnt any less likely to leak.
Build Thread My C I P (continuous Improvement Program) Thread
- Thread starter Chuckman
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
Lots of people breaking at the track tonight (i even was lining up with jon huber on my last run, and he had something burst coming to the line) but my car stayed together. New best of 12.76 @ 106.9, 1.69 60' shocks set at 5 front/11 rear and dumping the clutch at 6k. First two passes had more mph, so still gotta figure out why i can either get a new best et or mph, but not on the same pass.
squeak93
15 Year Member
Spinning usually results in higher MPH. If you hooked better an ran faster typically your mph will suffer just a tad (be close but not your overall best). ET is what matters anyway.
I have actually been slightly baffled by your car. I've felt like it should run quicker. I know there is weight considerations,track prep,all the other variables involved but I feel like there should be a few tenths and maybe a 108-110mph trap speed. You have addressed the suspension(and with more seat time/trial and error there maybe an improvement hidden there). I'm wondering about the stock ecu tune. Maybe some hidden power there? Not that your car is performing bad. I just think there is more in it. Maybe? Also what tire pressure are you running? Maybe add some to see if that helps or hurts? As far as my ? About the FP gauge. I've always heard not to run one all the time because of the potential fire hazard. Especially near the alternater wiring. Ok to tune with but don't constantly run it hooked up. Just what I've been told...idk?
It has trapped 109, so i think the power is there, just need to figure where it needs to shift i think. I think next week I'm going to see if I can find some contact info for bobcat (bob monks, virtual legend around here for mustang tuning ) and see if he can work some magic on it. Just have a hard time trusting people to work on my stuff.
so last night i took the upper off real quick to double check my rockers, and found this oil-slicked mess of a gasket:
not sure exactly where it's coming from, inside the t/b is dry so i have a hard time believing its my missing baffle, but put this little guy on the pcv line to see if anything comes out there:
took the day off from work to do some miscellaneous crap, and picked these up for $400 virtually brand new:
came with these fancy bolt-on spacers to clear cobra brakes:
on the ground:
looks cool right? well, wait till you see what happens when you turn the wheel.
front:
back:
thats some serious contact. guessing its because these things stick out about 1/8 to 1/4" further than the street setup. will have to do some thinking on how to make this work. may have to step up the plans of putting new-edge gt/v6 brakes on the front.
not sure exactly where it's coming from, inside the t/b is dry so i have a hard time believing its my missing baffle, but put this little guy on the pcv line to see if anything comes out there:
took the day off from work to do some miscellaneous crap, and picked these up for $400 virtually brand new:
came with these fancy bolt-on spacers to clear cobra brakes:
on the ground:
looks cool right? well, wait till you see what happens when you turn the wheel.
front:
back:
thats some serious contact. guessing its because these things stick out about 1/8 to 1/4" further than the street setup. will have to do some thinking on how to make this work. may have to step up the plans of putting new-edge gt/v6 brakes on the front.
Well, they do look cool. Lol. I'm actually grabbing a set of 15x3 1/2- 15x10 set of draglites w/ tires this weekend. Way to good of a deal to pass up. I've always liked the pro stars better. Can you trim the ground effects without butchering them to get those to fit? Hard to tell from pics.
Nah, it's in the actual metal this time. Looks like its purely because of how far they stick out, if they were right on the rotor, the radius that the outside would turn in would be smaller and they would clear. And its very obvious how much wider it is than the street setup.
even if I end up trashing the spacers it's still a good deal each wheel and each tire is 200 bux each new on summit.
even if I end up trashing the spacers it's still a good deal each wheel and each tire is 200 bux each new on summit.
Apparently hot lapping in 90+ degree heat after sitting in traffic for 45 minutes is too much for replacement tfi's. Digital tach started going crazy again.
got 2 "clean" passes before true street last night, first was a 12.7x with 1.7x 60', next was a 12.9x 1.7x 60' (tfi was crapping out again, making me shift early). both spun.
true street was lame, 4 car field so everyone got a trophy for just showing up, but they still made us do 20 laps around the road course (would have been fun had i not been on bias-plys and shocks so soft that if i took the curves too hard the fronts rubbed, the tocikos and bfg's wouldnt have had a problem). then had to do 3 hot laps on the strip. totally botched the first two (two red lights in a row anyway), then ran another 12.7x with a 1.7x 60' spinning again.
the whole night actually almost made me wish i had brought the coyote instead.
going to pick up a spare tfi on the way in today, hopefully it'll last a bit.
i think i've asked this before, but who makes a tfi these days that actually will last more than a couple months?
true street was lame, 4 car field so everyone got a trophy for just showing up, but they still made us do 20 laps around the road course (would have been fun had i not been on bias-plys and shocks so soft that if i took the curves too hard the fronts rubbed, the tocikos and bfg's wouldnt have had a problem). then had to do 3 hot laps on the strip. totally botched the first two (two red lights in a row anyway), then ran another 12.7x with a 1.7x 60' spinning again.
the whole night actually almost made me wish i had brought the coyote instead.
going to pick up a spare tfi on the way in today, hopefully it'll last a bit.
i think i've asked this before, but who makes a tfi these days that actually will last more than a couple months?
I'm still rocking a motorcraft from 5 years ago. Have you checked rock city auto? I need to get a spare one. I'm sure I'm on borrowed time and it will die when I need it most. Sorry to hear about your expierience. Also out of curiosity have you ran your coyote at the track? What kind of times? Most around here run low 13's stock
I brought the 'yote out once before i had the fox running, it was running 13.1 @ 110 on the stock tires, and would lock me out trying to powershift at 6k.
Fox just ran a 12.73 @ 107 in first round of qualifying. Nibbling away.
Fox just ran a 12.73 @ 107 in first round of qualifying. Nibbling away.
so in the first time trial today i got that 12.736 @ 107.19 on a 1.713 60'.
adjusted the rear shocks from position 5 to position 7, and the fronts from 5 to 3.
next pass was a new best 12.647 @ 107.44 1.678 60'.
in the qualifier the guy next to me didnt know how to stage his car, and the light got me off guard and made a 13+ second pass (total mental screw up on that one)
1st eliminater ran 12.729 @ 107.24 1.692 60' and lost to a 10.720.
so looks like somewhere i picked up .1-.2, and im thinking it's from being able to actually see that my fuel pressure with vac off was barely at 30, and bumping it to 40. probably also getting the oil out of the intake. theres maybe 1/2 a tablespoon of oil in the seperator already, thats in about 150 miles and 9 passes.
adjusted the rear shocks from position 5 to position 7, and the fronts from 5 to 3.
next pass was a new best 12.647 @ 107.44 1.678 60'.
in the qualifier the guy next to me didnt know how to stage his car, and the light got me off guard and made a 13+ second pass (total mental screw up on that one)
1st eliminater ran 12.729 @ 107.24 1.692 60' and lost to a 10.720.
so looks like somewhere i picked up .1-.2, and im thinking it's from being able to actually see that my fuel pressure with vac off was barely at 30, and bumping it to 40. probably also getting the oil out of the intake. theres maybe 1/2 a tablespoon of oil in the seperator already, thats in about 150 miles and 9 passes.
Details on that oil separator? I need to do this on my HolleySMII. on congrats on the improvement.
Just a husky air compressor filter with two 1/4npt to 3/8 hose barb fittings in the pcv line. Ill have to figure out a more permanent mount somehow, but for now i just have it zip tied to the brake line on the firewall (yes, ghetto rigged, but i needed to see where oil was getting in).
This class is also making me second guess wanting to stay n/a. EVERYTHING I've been running against has some kind of power adder. Wondering if I want to spend the $3k+ for a vortech, and if i could pick up 2 seconds that way.
This class is also making me second guess wanting to stay n/a. EVERYTHING I've been running against has some kind of power adder. Wondering if I want to spend the $3k+ for a vortech, and if i could pick up 2 seconds that way.
Oh you definitely could pick up 2 seconds. A 8-10# boost combo would/should put you there(also near the edge of durability on that block also lol). A small shot of nitrous would put you into the mid to low 11's easily. If you wanted to go in that direction. Bottle refills get old but it's the cheapest bang for the buck. A good system would only cost 1/3(with all the add ons) of the cost of a blower. I know my 302 could go 10's with a descent shot. The blower route has its issues with bracket racing(unless you can get ample cool downs between passes). Nitrous is more consistent IMO. If it's just a run as fast as you can thing then I vote forced induction. There is something about a simple n/a 12 sec combo though. It's cheap. It's consistent. Its relatively simple/low maintenance etc. and 3k would get you a hell of a stroker shortblock?! Easily capable of low 11's and a good motor could go 10's.
so one of the guys from stlmustangs got a vid of me being eliminated from in the efi class.
that cut a 1.692 60' (my best et came on a 1.678 2 passes and 2 hours before) and ran to a [email protected] (2nd best to the before mentioned [email protected])
still hops up rather abruptly and "bogs" when it comes back down. just about dumped the clutch at about 6.5-7k on the stock tach (reads 1k+ rpm high, but easier to read than the digital on launch). 15psi in the tires.
i think a shock/strut adjustment may help the front carry a bit more. probably needs some uppers with non-worn-out bushings and some adjustment.
got a dyno tune scheduled for the 14th, we'll see if theres any power to be made there.
also have some remanned 04 gt calipers, new rotors and pads on order to try to get the skinnies on (i dont trust used brakes). should be here next week.
that cut a 1.692 60' (my best et came on a 1.678 2 passes and 2 hours before) and ran to a [email protected] (2nd best to the before mentioned [email protected])
still hops up rather abruptly and "bogs" when it comes back down. just about dumped the clutch at about 6.5-7k on the stock tach (reads 1k+ rpm high, but easier to read than the digital on launch). 15psi in the tires.
i think a shock/strut adjustment may help the front carry a bit more. probably needs some uppers with non-worn-out bushings and some adjustment.
got a dyno tune scheduled for the 14th, we'll see if theres any power to be made there.
also have some remanned 04 gt calipers, new rotors and pads on order to try to get the skinnies on (i dont trust used brakes). should be here next week.
got the car tuned today by bob monks (aka bobcat from stlmustangs). when i got there and we started talking about what i had going on and how fast it was doing, he wasn't sure that he'd be able to gain enough to be worth it. but after seeing the afr's on a baseline pull, he was like "oh yeah, i can get more"
after a little tweaking (and putting in another new drivers-side wheel hub, long story), here's what he came up with:
went from 315hp/325tq to 330hp/338tq. so +15hp, and +13tq, and a much happier afr. from what he was telling me, he mostly just worked on the fuelling, and added 4 degrees of all-in timing (and got rid of the a9p's weird stock timing drop, for whatever reason theres a dip early in the advance curve that from what i gathered isnt in the a9l curve).
didnt have to mess much with the driveability, its always driven ok.
bob seems to think that with the new tune, putting on the skinnies, and shifting at 6200-6300 vs the 5750 i've been hitting, that it should drop .3-.4 of et.
Last edited:
New best of [email protected] 1.683 60'
also ran a [email protected]
Changes since last time out (12.647):
swap from 13" cobra to 99-04 pbrs
skinnies on
tune
shifting at 6200 vs 5750
My old nemesis, gear grind, showed it's ugly head after that. This time on the 3-4 shift. I think it may be as simple as a clutch adjustment, and as soon i turned the adjuster out a couple turns and got back in staging, it started raining
also ran a [email protected]
Changes since last time out (12.647):
swap from 13" cobra to 99-04 pbrs
skinnies on
tune
shifting at 6200 vs 5750
My old nemesis, gear grind, showed it's ugly head after that. This time on the 3-4 shift. I think it may be as simple as a clutch adjustment, and as soon i turned the adjuster out a couple turns and got back in staging, it started raining
