I was gonna harp on you to keep your gauges all the same style, but If you look at my dash, you'll find that it's full of brand new gauges from NewVintage..but Im still using a digital innovate AFR gauge..( I ain't replacing a known-working AFR gauge with a different one just because it doesn't match) And just recently, I added back the glow shift boost gauge that I also had laying around in a drawer.
But I already had that stuff.
If you haven't purchased anything yet, I'd be wondering as to why you wouldn't keep your gauge theme intact instead of hodge-podging two or three different brands together...especially considering you just bought al of those auto meter gauges.
I'm assuming that it's electrical, and the pic is if the sender that you have now spliced into your fuel line, but If that fuel pressure gauge is mechanical and it has gas going to it, it has no place inside your car unless you like the smell of burning flesh right before you die.
A visual aid for this morning's lecture:
You don't need to see fuel pressure considering most of the rest of the world get by without ever knowing wtf it is..I can see having it on a race engine where a lack of FP means engine melt down, but on a street car....
if there is a hard line with gas running to the gauge, you gotta keep it outside. I think It looks bad when mounted outside of the car on the cowl and makes the equivalent statement of having wheelie bars on a street driven car with street tires on it....But that's just me.
As for which side to mount the O2 sensor in, it won't matter...burned gasses are burned gasses regardless of which bank they are coming out of. Having a wide band o2 sensor is a tuning aid regardless of the engines N/A status..it'll tell you how much fuel is getting burned, and how much isn't in the combustion process. It will record what it does ( a data log) so that you can make a hard pull and see how rich or lean the engine is, with the objective AFR at wot as lean as possible w/o risking damage to the engine ( a whole different lecture).