Progress Thread My centrifugal ppl, how’s this deal?

So connecting up the distribution block, I have my 1/0 positive connected and same spot added my wire from there to the solenoid. Can I run my main starter cable to the distribution block as well or does it need to be attached to the actual solenoid?
 

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if you are using the pre 93 cable, it is about 6 inches shorter than the 93 with the mini starter. See if it is long enough to reach the distribution block,
I ended up buying a longer pre maid 4g starter cable, it reached up to the solenoid mounted up in the fender but I always hated how stuff that side of the solenoid got, so if I can mount it to the d-block instead I’d rather. Just wasn’t sure if that would be proper.
 
We have power!! :taco:Oh man that’s exciting, now it’s to bad I’m on stand still until I get my 91-93 harness orders for the pro-m efi. I had one I picked up used, turns out it was not a pro-m 91-93 but a 87-89 harness. The guy was cool, and refunded my money and I returned the harness. I was gonna do coil on plug but think I’m just gonna run it with a regular set up instead. Just happy to know I got it done, at the back I was getting 12.41, up at the solenoid I was getting 12.38. I am not looking forward to back tracking my wire tuck to pull the old harness out and get the pro-m one in. Next step is to give it a crank and hope it fires!! Think I need to trim the starter cable on the post of the starter, as it seems like it’s touching the nut of the smaller power wire, would this cause issues on cranking? 10C0AE96-682E-4BC0-87BA-522B510CE8E6.jpeg 35AE2A2E-9F3B-4445-98E1-AF4894A5C127.jpeg
 
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Ahhh boy Idk what I just jacked up but it threw some crazy sparks. I decided to move the ecu ground wire and put everything back together ground wise at this one point. The 4g ground from the block to chassis moved up and touched the mega fuse for the alternator and snap crackle pop small flash firework sparks and I thought oh crap I should have had everything unplugged again. No all is done, battery plugged up, and I have no power. Did I totally screw something up?
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I have one! I just pulled the mega fuse bc I was thinking about either going to buy another one or order one off Amazon. What’s your idea?
Based on the reply, I suggest you phone a friend who can teach you how to use the meter to diagnose a blown fuse and fuseable links. I bet you are too far for me to stop by. Maybe someone on here that’s closer can help.
 
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Based on the reply, I suggest you phone a friend who can teach you how to use the meter to diagnose a blown fuse and fuseable links. I bet you are too far for me to stop by. Maybe someone on here that’s closer can help.
Hahaha yes I’m not as tech inclined as many of you guys in here!! I’m just gonna buy another 200a fuse From advance or something and see if that’s it, I hope! If not well got damn then what?
 
First, disconnect the battery cables for all resistance checks. starting with the positive side.
Set the meter for a dc range higher than 12 and red to pos, black to neg, touch the less to the battery terminals. It should be about 12 v disconnected.
Watch this before you buy a fuse. She has a pleasant voice to show you how to use the meter to test the fuse before you buy one.

View: https://youtu.be/1iHRESNMFAg


This guy is testing an alternator for a blown fuseable link. He does not make it clear that you test resistance and continuity with the battery disconnected, and voltages with the battery connected. He’s a bit cavalier about having that positive terminal for the alternator just out and about (bad news if it hits a ground), but you can get some good ideas from him.

View: https://youtu.be/GEk4c3Kopak


I am serious about this is a good time to phone an electrical savy car friend.
Good luck.
 
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I always caution against putting all your eggs, err, grounds in one place, especially the computer ground.
Yeah originally I had it split. I grounded the 4g from the block to chassis, had a ground for the msd,
I always caution against putting all your eggs, err, grounds in one place, especially the computer ground.
so the computer ground wire has that star eyelet and then this little guy to ground as well. Can they be grounded at the same point together or to the have to have different contact points? Then I can just attach the 4g ground from the block and a ground from my MSD and fan controller together? Before the dumb mistake I did and not disconnecting the battery before I started to mess with the grounds etc, the car started up but was running like crap. I thought well maybe it’s bc the computer ground wasn’t ground well enough, which is why I tried to bolt all of it together to the chassis. Then that 4g touched the alternator Mega fuse and things went south power wise. The second pic is where I had grounded the ecu originally and the tail was connected with the 4g wire point, Was that first ground actually ok?
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Wherever you connect them, make sure you sand or scrape some paint off, so that they are making contact with the bare metal. And I don’t know if matters, but I would make sure the computer ground is the first one down against the chassis, if you have multiple on the same bolt.
 
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For what you are doing I would use a bolt and nut combo with a lock washer, use a long bolt so it leaves a stud to add the wires onto.
scrape the paint away and use a conductive anti corrosive compound if you have one... I like to use a copper paste.
 
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I am concerned he hit the battery side of the fuse. That could have pulled a lot of power from the battery, and strange stuff can happen with a short.

In a 65 A body, the lighter socket center contact came un riveted and shorted out when I unplugged a phone charger. Not only did it take out the fuse for the lighter, it took out 5 other fuses, and the aftermarket tach still has periodic tremors. I added a fuse in the line to the lighter socket, but am still wondering how it pulled that much power from the radio etc.

There may be some investigative procedures needed on this Mustang.