My Clutch List...

So I got the green light from the wifey to get the clutch I want. I put a list together on all the items I'll be replacing when I replace the clutch.

I've already purchsed a new bell housing (since mine went south). I also have a Aerostar DS.

Here's the rest of my list. Please let me know of any suggestions. Thanks!

86-00 Mustang Ford Racing King Cobra Clutch Kit, 10.5" 10 Spline For 5.0L
$269.95 @ http://www.ninosport.com/Ford-Racing-Clutch-Kit-M-7560-C302N-p/m-7560-c302n.htm

Fidanza Billet Aluminum Flywheel (86-95 5.0L)
$320.89 @ http://azcustomcars.com/product.php?productid=55824

83-04 Mustang Rear Main Seal For 3.8L & 5.0L (Ford Racing Part)
$12.99 @ http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-6701A

83-95 Mustang Tailshaft Seal Fits T-5/Aod - by Ford
$10.99 @ http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-7052A/83-95-Mustang-T-5-AOD-Tailshaft-Seal

79-95 Mustang Manual 6 Piece Flywheel Bolt Kit - by Ford
$9.99 @ http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...Ford-Mustang-Manual-6-Piece-Flywheel-Bolt-Kit

86-00 Mustang Clutch Pressure Plate Bolt And Dowell Pin Kit, 5.0L & 4.6L With 10.5" Clutch - by Ford Racing
$12.99 @ http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/M6397A302/86-00-Mustang-Pressure-Plate-Bolt-And-Dowell-Kit

79-95 Mustang 5.0L Pilot Bearing - by Ford Racing
$9.99 @ http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-7600A/79-95-Mustang-50L-Clutch-Pilot-Bearing

94-95 Mustang 5.0L T-5 Bearing Retainer - by Ford Racing
$39.99 @ http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/M7050B/94-95-Mustang-Ford-Racing-50L-T-5-Bearing-Retainer

Total: $687.78

Let me know if there is something I've left out. Also let me know of any suggestions on clutch and flywheel.

Thanks a million,
 
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Fwa, quad, cable.... might as well do it now :shrug: also fresh fluids


mgw would be nice too... :)


i mean your already spending more then you need... You could just do clutch.... TOB.... RMS... Pilot...

fwa? mgw?

What fluids should I run? I saw some Synchromesh Royal Purple being thrown around on every site I go. Is that decent stuff? Yeah, I wanna use that lightened flywheel to go with the Aluminum DS that I got. Figured I'd do it now.
 
I'd also skip the boutique flywheel for a stock replacement and spend the money on the shifter and/or the MM or Fiore quadrant and FWA.
 
I'd also skip the boutique flywheel for a stock replacement and spend the money on the shifter and/or the MM or Fiore quadrant and FWA.

Totally agree. Aluminum flywheels do almost nothing for you. They actually make the car idle worse, and slow you down at the track. Plus you are looking at the Fidanza brand, which is notorious for selling Chinese crap. That flywheel might be full of cadmium and be dropping lead paint chips. I would just get the stock flywheel resurfaced.

Kurt
 
I think the bearing retainer is steel on the 94/5 T-5's already, if that is your intention for getting one. If you're concerned with gouging, well that's another story. Same with the hardware, I'd just re-use it. Might save you a few bucks if you inspect it first, but it's your money, spend it how you like. Nice for piece of mind to have it if you need it, instead of ordering and waiting.

I'll be doing my clutch soon. I plan on clutch kit, fluid, seals, surfaced or new stock type flywheel, probably a transmission mount and aluminum driveshaft while I'm in there

good luck
 
I went ahead and ordered the t5 TO bearing retainer with steel sleeve from summit when I was doing my AOD to T5 swap. Will hold up better than the stock aluminum sleeved. I did a little research here and there, and I was going to go with steel flywheel over aluminum, but ended up just resurfacing the iron.

Anybody know the benefits of steel vs aluminum vs cast iron ?
 
The factory bearing retainer is aluminum. Upgrading to a steel one is a very good investment. They aren't very expensive, and they are very easy to change. The steel ones don't wear as much when the throw out bearing rides on them. They also don't deform as much.

Kurt
 
Totally agree. Aluminum flywheels do almost nothing for you. They actually make the car idle worse, and slow you down at the track. Plus you are looking at the Fidanza brand, which is notorious for selling Chinese crap. That flywheel might be full of cadmium and be dropping lead paint chips. I would just get the stock flywheel resurfaced.

Kurt

My real goal was to lower the rotational mass. But if a steel one would do... I might go for it.

How does a steel flywheel benefit over the stock iron one?
 
My real goal was to lower the rotational mass. But if a steel one would do... I might go for it.

How does a steel flywheel benefit over the stock iron one?

Much better to do that with an aluminum driveshaft. The flywheel is what keeps the engine running smoothly. With a lighter one, it could potentially run more rough. Although most people with an aluminum flywheel say they didn't notice a difference. At the track, you actually want that inertia rotating for a good launch, so it slows you down at the drag strip. Either way, it makes little difference.

To be honest with you, the best flywheel to use is the on on the car. The one that is on the engine has been balanced with the crank and harmonic balancer, which makes the car run a lot smoother. The stock flywheel is also good quality. Just get that one resurfaced.

Kurt