My Combo Evaluation...

mhorn0817

New Member
Apr 27, 2006
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have a 1987 mustang lx convertible...here is a list of mods, please tell me your thoughts and or concerns on everything. weather i should change or adjust anything. how much HP you think im makin and what kind of 1/4 mile times i should expect... thanks

new 331 stroker motor all forged internals
edelbrock rpm heads
edelbrock rpm air gap intake
crane 1.6 roller rockers
snyper NOS nitrous kit 100-150 shot
holley HP seires 750 mechanical secondary carb
lunati cam # 51014 500 510 lift 284 292 duration
lunati billet steel double roller timing chain
bbk equal length headers
flowmaster exhaust
ford motor sports aluminum rad
ford motorsports aluminum driveshaft
eibach drag launch springs
90/10 lake wood front struts
50/50 rear shocks
pro built t5 trans
pro 50 shifter
spech stage 2 clutch kit
8 point cage
msd box
msd dizzy and coil
holly external fuel pump (unsure of size)
stock gears ( getting ready to swap in 410's)
 
you know alot of people say the block is weak above 500 hp and I am sure it is. But one misconception too is that it all depends on your tune. If you have no tune or a ****ty tune then it will most likely fail but if the tune is dead on then I think the stock block will last a little further or could just be I am getting lucky with my stock block
 
you know alot of people say the block is weak above 500 hp and I am sure it is. But one misconception too is that it all depends on your tune. If you have no tune or a ****ty tune then it will most likely fail but if the tune is dead on then I think the stock block will last a little further or could just be I am getting lucky with my stock block

well its not just that, the whole point is you dont need forged internals, that isnt going to get you any further with a stock block. Sometimes they last sometimes they dont, but the block always fails first.


to the op, you have a decent setup it sounds like depending on your driving experience and such i wouldnt say 10's arnt out of the question, its a longshot though. My buddy with carbed 302 h/c/i spray setup was going 11.20's on spray, he was going 11.80's on motor though...yes 11.80 on a stock bottom h/c/i carbed setup, he had a really nice suspension setup.

Its not like its going to blow up the second you spray it, it will last a good amount of time, sometimes you get lucky and they last a real long time, just change your oil a lot it makes a big difference.
 
well i guess things are sounding a little better....im sure sure how much i should spray...100 or 150 shot....but i was hoping for mid 11's on spray, but faster would definatly be nice....what mods should i do next to the car?
 
If it were me I wouldn't go straight to the 150 shot. I'd drive the car N/A for a while and make sure the tune really is right (check your plugs for evidence of detonation, etc). Then go to the 100 shot, if you don't have a nitrous tune be sure to at least drop the timing about 2 degrees for every 50HP you spray.
 
i definatly wouldnt go straight to the 150 shot, ill prob stay at 100 shot for a while...since the car is carb i dont really have a nitrous tune, other then droping the timing...but you say for a 100 shot to drop the timing 4 degrees?
 
you know alot of people say the block is weak above 500 hp and I am sure it is. But one misconception too is that it all depends on your tune. If you have no tune or a ****ty tune then it will most likely fail but if the tune is dead on then I think the stock block will last a little further or could just be I am getting lucky with my stock block

Dude don't give false hope to anyone. The block is on borrowed time at 500rwhp. Anything above that will come down to how well the internals are balanced. The tune has next to nothing to do with the block unless you lose a piston or a rod. :rolleyes:
 
well that makes me feel a little better....what all should i do to the car next? im assuming suspension...what should i add next?

It all depends on what you want. If you want power you need to go with a early model block or a mexican block at the least. Both blocks have said to make 900rwhp and live...but I wouldn't bet on it. I'd say safely both blocks will handle 650rwhp. I've got a 69 block laying around I'll give to you if you are close to SC. I have no use for it since I'm going 351. As far as suspension, again it all depends on what you want. Honestly I'd start with a built rear end and some slicks on 10" wide wheels. See how/if it hooks up at the track and go from there. I'm the biggest tight ass when it comes to money so I don't see a point at throwing suspension parts on it if you haven't had it to the track yet. I've gone low 1.5 60' on stock suspension. So if you want better advice gotta let us know what the goal is for the car.
 
IMO it wold be a better idea to sell the nitrous setup and the rpm heads, and get a set of CNC wedges, or AFR 185 or maybe even 205's (let the afr guys decide, i truely don't know which set). The NA power will be more useful on the street and alot more fun.


I'd take 50rwhp NA over 150 nitrous hp any day.

And it will keep you from blowing the thing up, more than likely.
 
welp its pretty much just a playtoy, i just want it to go fast basically, like to get into the 10's if possible, any do it for as cheap as possible

How much money do you have in the internals? If you have alot I'd pull the motor out and put in a junkyard shortblock and have fun with it. If it blows up no big deal. And while you are having fun with that take the guts out of your nice motor and save up for a Dart block or something like that.