My newest pile of parts (pic).

ForceFed70 · Sep 5, 2006

Well, It took a whole day of driving and $700, but I came home with some great parts.

Pictured is:
-T5 with crossmember and stock shifter
-Output shaft for t5 along with the whole driveshaft
-Bellhousing with clutch fork
-Clutch and speedo cables
-Starter
-Pedal Assembly with clutch and brake switches,
-T5 wiring harness
-Flywheel and stock style clutch (looks almost new)
-Shifter boot
-Bellhousing to transmission plate or whatever you call it.

All parts came off of what I believe was a 1990 5.0L (was smashed and already had alot of parts missing).

ForceFed70 · Sep 5, 2006

So I have 3 questions:

1) What's the best way to clean this stuff up? I don't have access to a solvent parts washer unfortunately.

2) Does anyone know if it's possible to use the speedo cable? How about the clutch cable and pedal assembly parts?

3) Asside from the pedal assembly, crossmember, and probably a clutch cable conversion kit, what other parts do I still need to complete an auto to T5 swap?

Protowrxs · Sep 5, 2006

Power washer?.. Car wash worse case. Just be sure and plug all the holes on the tranny including any vents, etc. Otherwise it's lots of scrubbing with a brush, soap and bucket.

I'm not sure how easy the pedal would work but I think I've heard of others making it fit. Your 70 should already have the bushing for the clutch pedal but finding a 70 pedal can be a pain anyhow.

Personally I'm going with a home brew hydralic on the clutch since I want to keep my long tube headers but I saw some cable solutions when I was researching which direction to go on my 69.

I'm going with a scatter sheild though.. seen too many clutches take out a car and nearly the drivers without one.

You wouldn't have a speed sensor on that tranny you want to let go of would you? I don't think you're running EFI right?

Good luck and keep us posted.

-Stephen

ForceFed70 · Sep 5, 2006

Protowrxs said:
Power washer?.. Car wash worse case. Just be sure and plug all the holes on the tranny including any vents, etc. Otherwise it's lots of scrubbing with a brush, soap and bucket.

I'm not sure how easy the pedal would work but I think I've heard of others making it fit. Your 70 should already have the bushing for the clutch pedal but finding a 70 pedal can be a pain anyhow.

Personally I'm going with a home brew hydralic on the clutch since I want to keep my long tube headers but I saw some cable solutions when I was researching which direction to go on my 69.

I'm going with a scatter sheild though.. seen too many clutches take out a car and nearly the drivers without one.

You wouldn't have a speed sensor on that tranny you want to let go of would you? I don't think you're running EFI right?

Good luck and keep us posted.

-Stephen

Thanks for the advice/info.

I am running EFI, but it's a megasquirt system so I don't need the speed sensor. I don't think this tranny has one tho as it's setup with a speedo cable... my understanding is that speed sensor = digital speedo not cable.

I bought a 69 pedal with cross shaft off of ebay...I'm hoping I can make it work in my 70 assembly.

Max Power · Sep 5, 2006

I believe 1970 Mustangs mounted slightly differently. You also need to get the assembly that matches your brakes.

I am of the mindset that your injected and bottlefed 351w will make pretty short work of a stock T5.

ForceFed70 · Sep 5, 2006

Max Power said:
I believe 1970 Mustangs mounted slightly differently. You also need to get the assembly that matches your brakes.

I am of the mindset that your injected and bottlefed 351w will make pretty short work of a stock T5.

Yes, the 69/70 pedal assemblies themselves are different..from what I've been told, it's mostly just the mounting points that are different. I'm just hoping that the clutch pedal itself is the same.

And yes..I may be a little strong for a stock T5. But from what I understand, if I don't powershift and don't run slicks or drag radials I should be able to get a few years out of it.

ultrastang · Sep 5, 2006

BottleFed70 said:
Yes, the 69/70 pedal assemblies themselves are different..from what I've been told, it's mostly just the mounting points that are different. I'm just hoping that the clutch pedal itself is the same.

And yes..I may be a little strong for a stock T5. But from what I understand, if I don't powershift and don't run slicks or drag radials I should be able to get a few years out of it.

You don't need any of the clutch pedal parts from the Fox Mustang, if you are putting the T-5 in an early Mustang. All you need there is your stock clutch and brake pedal. The clutch pedal just needs a bracket welded on top to attach the Fox clutch cable to, such as this weld-on piece from Mustang Steve;

http://www.mustangsteve.com/booster_bracket_mc_clutch_side.JPG

www.ultrastang.com

ForceFed70 · Sep 6, 2006

ultrastang said:
You don't need any of the clutch pedal parts from the Fox Mustang, if you are putting the T-5 in an early Mustang. All you need there is your stock clutch and brake pedal. The clutch pedal just needs a bracket welded on top to attach the Fox clutch cable to, such as this weld-on piece from Mustang Steve;

www.ultrastang.com

Thanks, but my 70 is currently an auto... so I do need to figure out something for my pedals.

5.0ina66 · Sep 6, 2006

I'd try using the 5.0 pedal setup. I spoke with a guy a while back that used the Fox pedals in his 69 Mach1 and he said the firewall contours were perfect for the 5.0 cable setup. I know the firewall shape is the problem with putting it in a 65-66 and I know they changed the firewall shape quite a bit in the 67+ cars, so I wouldn't be surprised if it were as good a fit as he said. I know it takes some ferocious hacking for the 65-66 cars firewall.
HTH
--Kyle

Protowrxs · Sep 6, 2006

Here's a link that reviews the 69/70 differences to some degree.
http://web.mac.com/jbauder/iWeb/6970clutchpedals/69-70 clutch, brake pedals.html

Here's a link to my pedal setup. I simply cut off the left part of the auto brake pedal and installed the clutch pedal. This is a 69 with hydraulic activation.
http://www.protowrxs.com/Nolen/Stang/Rebuild/2006-08-13.asp

There are some other pages with more hydraulic info as well if it helps.

Good luck
-Stephen

ForceFed70 · Sep 6, 2006

Looks good, thanks for the pics..

SoCalCruising · Sep 7, 2006

Degreaser (2-3 applications/washes), followed by lacquer thinner wipe, should take care of all the dirt/grime/grease/etc. That's what I used on my engine compartment and it came out pristine. Brake cleaner is also good to spray into hard to clean crevices.

69 Rustang · Sep 7, 2006

Just ship it to me. I'll clean it up for you!!!

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