My personal price comparison, 347 vs 351

DarkMesa8

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Oct 15, 2002

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Orlando, FL

Mar 30, 2005

#1

• Mar 30, 2005

• #1

In a nutshell, it'll cost about $500 more for a 351W. I know the 347 will be faster because of rotating mass, but I'm looking for the reliability and growing room of a 351. Here's my breakdown, am I missing anything?

351W

Oil pump $35
Oil shaft $15
Oil Pan $145
GT40 Lower $309
351 balancer $189
ARP Studs $139
Swap Headers $289
Pushrods $85
Distributor $189
Dist Gear $35
Gaskets $159
Timing Chain $69
Plug Wires $69
Oil/Coolant $45
Engine $175
Flywheel $300
Roller Conversion $400
Drop Mounts (Modified K) $150
75mm TB $150
Machining
Hot Tank/Magnaflux $130
Bore $165
Align Hone $120
Balance $175
Cam Bearings Install $20
Deck $50
FTI Cam $325
AFR 185 Heads $1500
Forged flat top pistons $300

$5732

Forged 347 Stroker in Stock Block

Pan $100 (current one is broke)
Edelbrock RPM II Intake $350
Studs $139
1 3/4 Longtube headers $250
Pushrods $85
Gaskets $85
Oil/Coolant $45
70mm Throttle body $150
Machining
Hot tank and check $130
Bore w/ girdle $245
Align Hone $120
Balance $175
Cam Bearings Installed $20
Deck $50
FTI Cam $325
AFR 185 $1500
Stroker Kit $1300
Girdle $200

$5269

How durable are the stock 351W rods and crank?

 

G.I.Slow

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Oct 10, 2004

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Clarksville, TN

Mar 31, 2005

#2

• Mar 31, 2005

• #2

Subscribed,This is a thread I am interested in seeing some replys. I just tore down my 351w (D1AE) and I am getting ready to send it to the machine shop. I have the same question about the stock rods(I have the C9OE) and crank. Thanks

Sean

 

GroverDill

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#3

• Mar 31, 2005

• #3

forged parts in a stock block is dumb.

 

G.I.Slow

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Clarksville, TN

Mar 31, 2005

#4

• Mar 31, 2005

• #4

GroverDill said:

forged parts in a stock block is dumb.

Click to expand...

Can you please expand on this comment, because I was thinking of putting forged pistons in my stock block. I dont have a good reason, but I thought they were just lighter and stronger. Would the hyperutectic pistons work for a N/A 351 build-up. Thanks

Sean

 

ExplodingGopher

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Jun 11, 2004

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The mistake on the lake (Ohio)

Mar 31, 2005

#5

• Mar 31, 2005

• #5

you can also bore and stroke that 351 out pretty darn big

And yes hyper pistons will work fine for you in the post above. Im using KB hypers in my N/A 466 build, taking it up to around 6200 rpms and not expecting any problems........ [size=+2]but make sure you use good connecting rods like eagles.[/size]

 

Papageof

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May 6, 2002

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Jacksonivlle, FL

Mar 31, 2005

#6

• Mar 31, 2005

• #6

Howdy neighbor, I live in j-ville too. I was wondering what machine shop you were thinking of using. I don't understand why this stuff is so expensive here, and so cheap in other places.

 

DarkMesa8

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Orlando, FL

Mar 31, 2005

#7

• Mar 31, 2005

• #7

Well, the server crash yesterday deleted my avatar and "re-moved me" back to Jacksonville... I live in Orlando now.

BUT, I do plan on using a J ville machinist, Gary Johns in the North/Westside.

 

M

mackey

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Jan 25, 2003

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Beverly, Massachusetts

Mar 31, 2005

#8

• Mar 31, 2005

• #8

DarkMesa8 said:

In a nutshell, it'll cost about $500 more for a 351W. I know the 347 will be faster because of rotating mass, but I'm looking for the reliability and growing room of a 351. QUOTE]

The 351w would make more power due to the extra cubes. The rotating mass would not allow the 351 to spin as quickly but if the 351 is setup right, just like the 347, they will make almost equal power with the 351 making a little more.

Click to expand...

 

DarkMesa8

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Orlando, FL

Mar 31, 2005

#9

• Mar 31, 2005

• #9

Thank you for your insight, the 351 would get an aluminum flywheel to help make up for that.

My main question is, can anyone see any major component I left out while factoring prices?

 

GroverDill

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Mar 31, 2005

#10

• Mar 31, 2005

• #10

my bad, I thought you were going full bore with forged everything,

dont mind me.

 

DarkMesa8

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Mar 31, 2005

#11

• Mar 31, 2005

• #11

Alright, since I have people here now I have another important question:

I've read of people using spacers to drop the stock K-Member 2 inches, what kind of spacers will be used? Has anyone done this before?