my stang is having weird issues

westridez

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Mar 31, 2005

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#1

• Mar 31, 2005

• #1

I got my new motor in and it runs nice when it wants to the last couple days its been acting up mostly when im driving on the hwy then it started doing it in town it will spit,sputter,bog and make poping noises out of the intake at low rpm if i get on the throttle it goes away one minute it will do it alot the next it would run perfect sometimes for an hour. It pops like its out of time but it cant jump in and out of time could it?anyone got any idea what it could be thanks

 

jrichker

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#2

• Mar 31, 2005

• #2

Carb or EFi? Mods? What year? Whats the new motor got? Post some answers and maybe you'll get some help.

 

westridez

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#3

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sorry my signature dint work i had to redo my account cause it was deleted

 

Scones

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Mar 31, 2005

#4

• Mar 31, 2005

• #4

actually it is possible for your timing to jump around. my buddy schlodes was having this same issue with his 84 SVO....I'll let him know about this thread and maybe he can help you out.

 

westridez

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• Mar 31, 2005

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Scones said:

actually it is possible for your timing to jump around. my buddy schlodes was having this same issue with his 84 SVO....I'll let him know about this thread and maybe he can help you out.

Click to expand...

alright thanks i was gonna try changing the distributor cause i have a spare complete engine

 

westridez

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#6

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westridez

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#7

• Mar 31, 2005

• #7

no one has had this problem i just changed out the whole distributor and that wasent the problem

 

westridez

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#8

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W

winder

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Apr 1, 2005

#9

• Apr 1, 2005

• #9

Two things- either tfi module on the dist. or the stator inside of the distrib. It's either one. Mine did the same thing. Mine was the stator.

 

westridez

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#10

• Apr 1, 2005

• #10

winder said:

Two things- either tfi module on the dist. or the stator inside of the distrib. It's either one. Mine did the same thing. Mine was the stator.

Click to expand...

i just changed the dist. for a diff one that i know is good and its still doing the same thing it only does it when its under a load

 

jrichker

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#11

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Since you are a Mass air upgrade, dump the codes. You will have to use the voltmeter or test lamp method since you probably don't have a working Check Engine Light.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.

 

westridez

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#12

• Apr 1, 2005

• #12

i tried the codes the test light just stays on and my fuel pump starts running

 

westridez

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#13

• Apr 1, 2005

• #13

ive now changed the mass air and the map sensor still screwed

 

westridez

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#14

• Apr 3, 2005

• #14

someones got to have an idea

 

jrichker

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#15

• Apr 3, 2005

• #15

westridez said:

i tried the codes the test light just stays on and my fuel pump starts running

Click to expand...

Either you jumpered to the wrong wire or you have a serious wiring problem. Go back and check the sites for the self-test connector drawing. It sounds like you jumpered the fuel pump control circuit to ground, which would make the pump run anytime the ignition switch was on.

Diagram courtsey of Tmoss & Stang&2birds.



If you jumpered the lt green wire on the self-test connector, you used the wrong wire.

 

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westridez

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Apr 4, 2005

#16

• Apr 4, 2005

• #16

maybe i did the self test wrong what colour do i put the test light on yellow #17 in the diagram