Well since I got her on all fours I checked to make sure the fronts didn't rub. Well they do on the very front fender lip, I think. Would I have to roll the whole lip or just that spot. I'm really hoping its just the very front of the fender. I couldnt tell because we were pushing it when I noticed it. What would be the easiest way to roll it? I know this has been asked a million times before, but I know someone has just a really simple way to do it.
My tire rubs :( ??'s
- Thread starter 19stang66
- Start date
krash kendall
Active Member
Use a cut off wheel on a 4" grinder and make slits every inch or so, then use a hammer and a piece of wood in a sock to tap the lip flat. Do it carefully and take your time or you will wind up with wrinkles on the outside.
SitDown
Founding Member
still yet to talk with anyone whos used that tool. Unless you plan to do some fender side jobs in the future, you could pay a bodyman to do all yours fenders for that price. Something to consider seeing it looks like your fresh from paint.
Otherwise id follow krashs method and ONLY do what is nessesary...then maybe before you next paintjob go to town on the whole fender or all of them
Otherwise id follow krashs method and ONLY do what is nessesary...then maybe before you next paintjob go to town on the whole fender or all of them
krash kendall
Active Member
Oh, I forgot to mention seam sealer. Use liberal amounts to prevent any water from getting into those tight creases.
SitDown
Founding Member
fender rub
Don't cut the fender this removes it's structural integrity! Let a body shop roll the upper 90 degrees of the fenders, 45 degrees each side from centerline. Or install the Vario-Centric system. This allows you to pull the upper control arms into the shock towers and adjust the camber from the bottom. It also allows you to get 8 inch wide rims under there.
Don't cut the fender this removes it's structural integrity! Let a body shop roll the upper 90 degrees of the fenders, 45 degrees each side from centerline. Or install the Vario-Centric system. This allows you to pull the upper control arms into the shock towers and adjust the camber from the bottom. It also allows you to get 8 inch wide rims under there.
dodgestang
Active Member
Mr_Merciless said:
Confusing statement.....since I run a 17x8 with none of that stuff you mentioned.
Perhaps I missed it in some previous post, but what size profile is being used? What is the current total backspacing on your wheels (rim and spacer)? What are your current alignment specs? What is the condition of your suspension (sig indictes new)? What brakes do you use? Simple questions that may or may not reveal a simple answer. I run 245 40 17 on the front of my 65 with a 17x8 (4.75bs wheel) without rolled fender lips with a lowered car (200 mile road tested which while somehwat short has been on South eastern PA roads so I feel confident
)....I didn't think they would work but I was willing to give it a shot since I ran 235 45 without rubbing for years. I run aggressive alignment, have lowered arms, and all rollerized stuff (except lower arm) so there is a lot of little things that can be done.fronts are 235/45s, the rims are 17x8". website i bought off of say they are 4.5" backspace (0mm). no spacer. Wheels are made specifically for classic mustangs. http://customwheelsmarket.com/d180782.html I have not aligned the car yet as i have no brake lines, all new suspension with shelby drop. all arms are new stock style. I'm hoping itll sit right after it gets aligned and broken in.
dodgestang
Active Member
19stang66 said:
Yeah....most likely even after alignment you'll end up rolling the fenders, but don't do anything until the car is driveable and aligned...make sure you give the shop the specs to align it too DO NOT let them align it to the specs on the card. The 4.5 BS while still a fit does not fit quite as well as the 4.75 in the 17 inch and up wheel.
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