i have a 88 mustang gt hatch back 5.0 i just bought it. it has the trickflow twisted wedge heads there full intake and stage 2 cam bbk intake and 3 inch exaust and i cant seem to keep it running without my foot on the gas it will shut off. also it has the egr valve disconected should i reconnect this? and there is a little place for a hose on the lower intake that has nothing on it should i connect this to vaccum my car also has a regulator for fuel pressure with a hose port on it should i run that to something? i really know nothing about cars except what my friends have told me so any help would be greatly appreciated thank you
my worked 5.0 wont idle right.
- Thread starter 88hatchbackgt
- Start date
hotrodredneck
New Member
From what I understand, the EGR needs to be connected unless you have a EGR bypass hooked up to trick the computer into thinking the EGR is working. Also, is there vaccum on the hose or the port of the intake that is disconnected? When you say, foot on the gas, are you just keeping the idle up so it doesnt shut off, or are you having to put alot of RPMs to it? In you are just reving it a little, then check/clean the IAC and throttle plate (I guess make sure it's still connected too, since you seem to have alot of things that are unhooked on this car).
i have pluged and unpluged vaccum lines everywere on the car no luck still and when i say foot on the gas i mean feathering the gas to keep the rpms up so it dosent shut off i really dont understand all the car lingo im new to the motor world before 2 weeks ago all i knew how to do was check my fluids and fill them up(in my truck) and drive and i dont do that to well either being the fact that i wrecked my truck i have a vacum line running from the tree to the intake its pretty decent sized i also have a bbk fuel regulator is there suposed to be a vacum running to that or not? and i have 30 pound injectors and my friend told me the car was mass air converted i have no idea what that means i have no smog pump and also no air conditon or heat that could cause all the vaccum lines not connected
Notchbck93
New Member
Disconnect the IACV and turn your throttle plate stop bolt in a few turns and start the car. Make adjustments to get your car to idle at the 900 rpms.
IACV is the cylindrical item attached to the throttle body.
Also, be sure to set your fuel pressure to 38 psi without the vacuum line being hooked up. Then hook up your vacuum line. This may require you to splice into a source vacuum somewhere using a T-fitting.
You may now need to readjust your idle after correcting your fuel pressure.
IACV is the cylindrical item attached to the throttle body.
Also, be sure to set your fuel pressure to 38 psi without the vacuum line being hooked up. Then hook up your vacuum line. This may require you to splice into a source vacuum somewhere using a T-fitting.
You may now need to readjust your idle after correcting your fuel pressure.
You've not indicated that you have acquired a vacuum reading yet nor told us what that reading was. Vacuum is a very common issue for idling issues.
Since you cannot keep engine running, I would open throttle body using adjuster screw ever so little so idle can be maintained while you're under the hood... instead of feathering throttle to keep it alive. Then plug a vacuum gauge into the vacuum tree.
Here's a thread you should follow. Jrichker has provided an invaluable checklist that I've used more than once to address various issues.
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/698148-help-me-create-surging-idle-checklist.html
Since you cannot keep engine running, I would open throttle body using adjuster screw ever so little so idle can be maintained while you're under the hood... instead of feathering throttle to keep it alive. Then plug a vacuum gauge into the vacuum tree.
Here's a thread you should follow. Jrichker has provided an invaluable checklist that I've used more than once to address various issues.
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/698148-help-me-create-surging-idle-checklist.html
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