Mystery start problem 2.3 non-T efi

[terramir]

Ok I got a big problem, when my car has been driven for a while and I turn it off, it will not start-up again intermittenly. The harder I drive the car the more likely it might not start for at least 15 to 30 minutes.
With not starting I mean that it will turn it will start but immediately stall, it will go to 500 or 1000 rpm and shake then go to 0 if I hit the gas it might drown if it goes to 500 if it gets to 1000 I am usually able to ease it to 2000 and then it will stay on.
I also have an exaust leak, somewhere under the drivers side which might be a minor contributing factor. I would like some opinions on what it could be since the car will stay on if it is started.
Specs of car 92 lx convertible, 2.3L EFI no turbo or other mods, once it's started it's responsive accelerates fine drinks a little too much gas but that's about all I can say.
thanks in advance for all your guys help
terramir

 

[terramir]

An update:
Codes are 11,11,11,11,32,75,43,32,75,43 I read up on them and I got a question could these be due to a faulty connection to the tps? Because someone told me that that could be the tps or a vaccum problem and the hoses seem fine, also today I was looking at ways to uninstall the tps sensor to look-up which of the two models it is and he told me that maybe I'm lucky and that the contacts being corroded might be my problem. I cleaned the contacts and while I don't know if that fixed the problem (yet), I do know the car's rpm seems a little different subjectivly.
terramir
PS What do those codes exactly mean I looked up the codes but it all might as well be chinese to me be specific on what I should check.
PSS: Ehh the wires and sparks are very new as in just six months ago this thing has 8 plugs and seems to be totally electronic I have not seen where the rotor is yet if this thing even has one :S
But here is some new info, I dunno but I might have fixed the problem still could need advice though.

 

[HyYoSilver]

An update:
Codes are 11,11,11,11,32,75,43,32,75,43 I read up on them and I got a question could these be due to a faulty connection to the tps? Because someone told me that that could be the tps or a vaccum problem and the hoses seem fine, also today I was looking at ways to uninstall the tps sensor to look-up which of the two models it is and he told me that maybe I'm lucky and that the contacts being corroded might be my problem. I cleaned the contacts and while I don't know if that fixed the problem (yet), I do know the car's rpm seems a little different subjectivly.
terramir
PS What do those codes exactly mean I looked up the codes but it all might as well be chinese to me be specific on what I should check.
PSS: Ehh the wires and sparks are very new as in just six months ago this thing has 8 plugs and seems to be totally electronic I have not seen where the rotor is yet if this thing even has one :S
But here is some new info, I dunno but I might have fixed the problem still could need advice though.

The 43 is the code to start with. It indicates an O2 sensor showing a lean condition, assuming the engine was fully warmed up when the test was run. Might change the sensor to fix.

The 32 is probably a bad EVP (EGR valve position) sensor. Very common problem on Fords.

The 75 is a BOO (Brake on-off circuit) always closed. Did you have your foot on the brake during the test?

The TPS wouldn't cause any of these codes, however it might cause the problems you describe. They're easy to check if you're familiar with using a multimeter. Do a search here for the procedure. Good luck.

 

[terramir]

hmmm I cleaned the tps contacts and well dun have the engine problem anymore, however I need some more info on the other error codes, the evp and the o2 sensor well I dunno where the O2 sensor is on this one and well niether the evp, can anyone point me to scematics maybe these sensors are having corrosion problems as well I want to clean the contacts and then clear the memory and run the test again after driving a bit, however I got two little problems
A. where are those things?
B. What other sensors can contribute to that O2 sensor problem, because I'm thinking if the MAF or the airpressure sensor are faulty as well as the TPS that can cause lean problems at WOT as well.
terramir
PS: I could not find the procedure to check the tps
help with a link plox
terramir

 

[terramir]

Hmmm Took the battery off and now I get these codes 11-11 --1-- 32,7 ,32, 7 I assume that 7 means 70 I'm gonna have to clear the codes again laters after I take care of that 32 mind you that the test was performed after I stayed in place just hitting the gas and going back and forward in my parking spot. but it seems like the 32 is still a problem. can anyone tell me how to fix that one :S
terramir

 

[HyYoSilver]

Terramir, the 32 is EGR sensor related; the sensor should be located on top of or near the EGR valve. It'll have wires going to it. The code says the signal voltage has gone below closed limit or set limits, so I'd suspect the sensor being faulty. Very common on Ford vehicles, the exhaust heat kills them. You could try removing it and spraying with WD-40, might get it working for awhile and at least confirm it's bad.

As far as the lean code you got previously, I take back what I said about the O2 sensor being at fault. More than likely, you have a lean condition caused by either a dirty MAF sensor, vacuum leak, or a fuel pump getting weak. If the 43 comes back, try cleaning the MAF first, if that dosen't help then check the fuel presure at the fuel rail schrader valve.
A bad fuel pump would explain the hard starting after sitting awhile.

My book dosen't list a code 7.
Code 70 might be a testing fault, poor code reader connection.....???

Are you sure these are two digit and not three digit codes? A three digit code would be 327, which would still be EGR valve position sensor low signal voltage???

 

[imapaintballa]

This may be way off par, but I've had the exact problem. It was my ircm/ccrm. It's basically a box of 3 relays and a big switching transistor. It controls the power to the eec, fuel pump, and engine fan. Big important box. It costs $130 from the dealers because nobody carries them, so just fix it yourself.

I went to Radioshack and bought a new relay (in my case for the fuel pump). It was $6... So I disassembled the box (drilled out 2 main rivets and opened it up. I desoldered the largest relay (fuel pump) and soldered the new one in. Car starts up first time everytime. Now I'm going to put a new ECM relay in because it's starting to go bad (have to tap the box to get the computer on sometimes which in turn, turns on the fuel pump).

 

[imapaintballa]

i misread the first post, disregard my last post.