Need 250ftlbs, wrench goes up to 150ftlbs. ????

SMRcalidiv

Founding Member
Aug 14, 2002
496
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16
Sacramento, CA
I am going to install new wheel bearings and hubs and I have a question. The directions say to torque them down to 250ftlbs. but my torque wrench only goes to 150. Is there some way that this will still work, like torque it down to 150 and an extra 1/4 turn??? Does anyone know of a store that rents torque wrenches that go to 250???
 
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F-me, 250 ft lbs for the hub? In any case, once I get to something that high, I take my Craftsman 1/2" rachet (warrantied for life, who cares), take my extension off my jack handle, and crank it down tight. I am sure you will be fine.

Edit: Sorry, meant to say, use the jack handle as a cheater bar.
 
I just replaced mine on my car 3 weeks ago. I got the wrench from Autozone using their loaner program (also got the 36mm socket). No charge for the loaner tools.

Also, 250 ft-lbs isn't that hard to torque when you consider the length of the wrench.
 
bdcardinal is wise in suggesting that use the right tools. We have all had to come up with some creative thinking before building cars, but when it comes to safety there should be no compromise. I've seen guys get seriously injured trying to use floor jack handles as a breaker bar. Please do not consider doing that.

You'll need to find a shop or parts store to lend you 3/4" drive torque wrench. If not try Harbor Freight. It won't be the highest quality torque wrench on the planet, but it will get a hub retainer nut tight for now.
 
When you torque down the nut, do you do it with the cage thing on? or do you put that on after its torqued down? I'm talking about the nut cover, thats the best way I can describe it. Do you take it off as one piece as well?

I bet you're going NUTS

nut_basket.jpg
 
Just some info. The nut is a Ford only item and one time use. The hub/bearing assembly is a single unit. Re-install is reverse of removal. Remove rotors/brakes as needed, Remove cover, remove nut, remove hub.
 
Wow, I got dogged on that one pretty good. It takes more than 250 ft lbs of force to get that nut loose, so unless you're using a good impact with the psi cranked way up, you'll have to figure out some way to get it loose. I usually turn around and use the same method to tighten.

I tend to be cheap and try alternative methods before spending money on special tools, but everyone here is right, use the correct tool and you will, if anything, have a better piece of mind about what you do.
 
Ok, I talked to Randy S. and got the info about the nut, it basically breaks the cage when you take it off, and the new one gets put on with the cage. I would be interested in torqueing the new one down to 150ftlbs, and then moving the setting up to 250ftlbs and seeing how many more turns, or 1/4 turns it takes to get to 250. Thanks for the replies guys!
 
1 more thing to consider is that if you are useing a "loaner" from autozone etc then how can you make sure the torque wrench was set back to 0 when used last?


if not set back to 0 after each session this will throw out the settings and mean the torque wrench is useless!

my outlook on tools is: "if you need it once you will need it twice" when doing my intake swap i had to buy a torque wrench and over here the one i bought was about £50 almost 100 bucks to you guys!

Just do it right the first time and splash the cash mate!

good luck anyhow!

Si
 
1 more thing to consider is that if you are useing a "loaner" from autozone etc then how can you make sure the torque wrench was set back to 0 when used last?


if not set back to 0 after each session this will throw out the settings and mean the torque wrench is useless!

This is not directed at anyone, just some general comments.

The answer is you don't and you also don't know if the tool you are buying is any better. Sure it comes from the factory but after you use it once, how do you know if it is correct. How many people get their torque wrenches calibrated? The torque recommendations are not that exact. If it is off by 10%, than it will not hurt anything. This is not brain surgery, this is a car. I would be willing to bet that after a car leaves the factory, 95% of the nuts and bolts replaced on a car are not torqued to the proper specs. While there are things on a car, mainly the engine, that need proper torque, the rest is not that important. I lived near a tire shop when I was growing up, and I never saw them use a torques wrench, in fact I have never seen any tire shop use a torque wrench to put on wheels. People need to relax a little bit. And don't give me that crap about the car will fall apart and it could hurt someone. Do you realize how much of a safety factor they use in something like that? Sorry for the rant and goodluck with your car repairs.
 
Have you done this yet?

I just had to do it a couple weeks ago, passenger side. The torque is actually 258 ft lbs. but I did as most have said here, I went to Autozone and got their free rental 250 wrench. They do require a deposit which you can put on a credit card and then gets greditted back to your card when you return the tool. I know I will be needing to do the drivers side someday and plan on buying a 3/4 300 ft lb wrench from HF when money allows.
 
No I have not done it yet, I ordered the parts today so they'll be here by the end of the week. I plan to get a loaner tool to do the install as well. It would be nice to have the extra funds to buy the proper torque wrench but its just not in the budget right now. Thanks for all of the responses guys.