Need 69 instrument voltgage regulator

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Carls69coupe

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May 12, 2006

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Buffalo NY area

Jun 8, 2006

#1

• Jun 8, 2006

• #1

I have my 69 dash cluster out for fresh paint and new lenses and wanted to replace the voltgage regulator, word is the manufacturer is out of production and nobody is accepting orders. Does anyone have a source for this part or any other clever ways to get around it.
Looking for Comments, thanks

 

yeloxr7

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#2

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National Parts Depot is showing an electronic IVR in their current ads (Mustang & Fords July 2006 issue, inside front cover). Part # 10804-3E for $59.95.

 

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Carls69coupe

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Jun 9, 2006

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Yeloxr7, picked up a copy of Mustangs and fast Fords like you referenced but did not see the add you are talking about, is this the mag you are talking about.
p.s. I had a red 69 XR7 and loved it, they are hot cars and I regret ever selling it.

 

unrealmach1

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Jun 10, 2006

#4

• Jun 10, 2006

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Did you buy Mustang & Fords or Mustang & Fast Fords? They have both and I have a copy of the July Mustang and Fords and it has the regulator in the NPD add. I just got it in the mail and I was going to respond to you, but I was beat to the punch.

 

65ShelbyClone

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Jun 11, 2006

#5

• Jun 11, 2006

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What voltage does the reg put out? If it's between 5 and 12v and 2A or less, I bet it would be fairly simple to transistorize it with a TO-220 two or three pin voltage reg for $15 including the soldering iron.

 

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Carls69coupe

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• Jun 11, 2006

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I picked up Mustangs and fast Fords, so I missed the add and will have to give them a call.
I have not found any specs on the voltgage or current rating but I assume it acts to maintain a constant output at 12V to the instruments. If we had the specs, I am sure a subistute could be designed.

 

yeloxr7

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Not Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords (for late-model stuff), but Mustang & Fords (mostly older cars). There is a black/red 67 Mustang "Eleanor" replica on the cover of the July issue.

I think the "regulator" drops the voltage for fuel and temp gauges to a lower voltage than 12v.

 

65ShelbyClone

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Jun 12, 2006

#8

• Jun 12, 2006

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Hell, I forgot that there are transistor regulators down to at least 3V.

National Parts Depot has a listing for a '69-73 gage cluster voltage regulator in their '06 catalog. P/N 10804-3 and $27.95.

Edit:


See those "electronic" voltage regulators? It's just a Radioshack 5 volt regulating transistor with some wires on it. I can't believe they could patent it, let alone want $60 for one.

The transistor you can get for two bucks or less! Hell, I have a handful of them in my parts bin.

 

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68restoman

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#9

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I made my own with radio shack parts using the centroid instructions for my fuel cell sending unit. Works great and cost about $6...

68Restoman

http://www.centroidproducts.com/mustang.htm

 

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Carls69coupe

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Jun 13, 2006

#10

• Jun 13, 2006

• #10

Thanks for all the great feed back, I had a feeling that there was another way to skin that cat.
Do you think I can test my old IVR by connecting a 12v car battery + pos lead to the pos terminal of the regulator and the - neg to the IVR housing and meter the other terminal to see if I get 5 volts output, or am I just running the risk of fring the unit.
It is conforting to know that you can build a subistute and that a new electronic verson is available if all else fails.

 

65ShelbyClone

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Jun 14, 2006

#11

• Jun 14, 2006

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First and foremost, if you try the following and damage something, it was at your own risk and I am in no way responsible.

I'm pretty sure that the case of the stocker is grounded while one connector is 12V in and the other is 5V out. I do not know if the regulator needs a load on it to function. You might be alright hooking it up to a battery, but I also don't know if it gets any regulated current from the engine ba reg or just plain 12V power off the system. The electronic regs only handle about 1A so I assume the mechanical one can't do any more than that.

 

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Carls69coupe

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Jun 14, 2006

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of course it would be at my own risk, in either case I need to confirm that I have a spare source lined up. I agree with you that the amps in the battery is a major risk.

Thanks

 

65ShelbyClone

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Yeah, I know, but it's like any disclaimer; you gotta state the obvious sometimes to cover yer butt.

 

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Carls69coupe

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Jun 15, 2006

#14

• Jun 15, 2006

• #14

Just as I thought, NPD said that the standard replacement #10804-3 is not available but they do have the new replacement version in stock as a direct snap in.
Thank you again for responding, I now have my purchase source and a do it yourself option by 68Restoman.

 

iskwezm

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Jun 15, 2006

#15

• Jun 15, 2006

• #15

65ShelbyClone said:

See those "electronic" voltage regulators? It's just a Radioshack 5 volt regulating transistor with some wires on it. I can't believe they could patent it, let alone want $60 for one.

The transistor you can get for two bucks or less! Hell, I have a handful of them in my parts bin.

Click to expand...

Yup, i went through 2 of the "dtock" type at 30 bucks a peice because the tabs are soldered on and break very easily. It cost about $1.79 from radio shack and put some wires on it

 

gbarber

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delaware, ohio

Aug 7, 2006

#16

• Aug 7, 2006

• #16

Sorry to revisit this old thread, but I just ran acroos it.

68Restoman or anyone else,
Did you use the Centroid Product type cicuit with a Radio Shack voltage regulator? (7805 type)
Earlier this year, I made a voltage regulator much like the electronic one NDP sells. Initially, I didn't use a heat sink. It worked right at start up, but within a minute or two, all of the gauges began reading very low. I thought the voltage regulator was getting too hot.
I then added an aluminum heat sink I made with some scraps of aluminum, some white grease, and a hacksaw. It has worked for several months now, but yesterday, all of the gauges pegged out. I'm not sure what happened. I'm going to try it again this time using a store bought heat sink.
Has anyone else made their own voltage regulator from Radio Shack parts? I really don't want to spend $45 or $60 on a new one if I can do it for $5 or $6.

 

65ShelbyClone

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Aug 7, 2006

#17

• Aug 7, 2006

• #17

Were you mounting the transistor to something thermally conductive before installing a heatsink? I think it is supposed to go against the metal case of the gage cluster. I haven't been back there recently, so I don't know how many flat areas there are.

 

gbarber

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Aug 8, 2006

#18

• Aug 8, 2006

• #18

Yes, I did mount it to the back of the gauge cluster using the same location as the original regulator. There was just enough flat area to mount the regulator and heat sink between some of the other wiring.
The new heat sink I bought will be too large to mount in that location. I'm not sure where I will mount it.