Need a good fan controller!

[Jaswir]

Ok i ordered a DcController and waited almost 2 months for it... and never got it.. so i got my money back... would never respond to me emails so i don't know if hes making them any more or not...


so what are u guys running? can i just use a controller off a black magic fan? should be pretty good right? i don't want to wire it to just a switch...

 

[Jaswir]

bump

 

[Grn92LX]

Bosch 75a relay and a switch. Been perfect for 5 years now. No need for an over priced controller IMO. Make sure you use good wire!

 

[5spd GT]

I want a DCC controller. Sorry you have bad luck with DCC...(Brian).

My fan is on a 'switch' mode, I hate it.

 

[Hizzle]

I have a dual speed electric fan and I went up to Advance Auto Parts and picked up some temperature controlled ones (2) that work fine. Careful which ones you get, some are adjustable and others are fixed.

 

[jrichker]

If you don't have a high current alternator, you can forget about using the fan. The stock 65 amp alternator isn't big enough to run the fan and the rest of the car.

The best fan controller available today is a DC Control unit. www.dccontrol.com. Cost is about $110. Be prepared to wait 4 weeks or more to receive your controller once you have sent in your payment. The controllers are custom made in small lots and lead times can stretch out.

Next best is a SPAL controller - $70-$90 See http://www.spalusa.com/fans/automated/accessories/fanpwm.html. Ebay will have the controllers for the $70: do a google search and see what you find.

At the bottom are the Hayden or Imperial controllers available through Advance Discount Auto Parts and AutoZone. The non adjustable one is about $30 ( Hayden 226206) and the adjustable one is about $60 (Hayden 226204). I recommend you do a google search on Hayden and the part number for more info.

If you are good with electrical stuff (90% of the people here aren't), build your own controller. The numbers on the diagram (#86, #87, etc) refer to the numbers on the bottom of a typical automotive relay.

If you are an experienced electronics tech or electrical engineer, email me and it will send you the prototype drawings of a fan controller that is probably as good as the DC Control unit. It is a build it, troubleshoot it yourself item. I will not build or troubleshoot units, so it is not suitable for anyone who isn't really good with electronics.

Alternate placement for a temp gauge sender or temp switch/temp sensor for an electric fan. Use the heater feed that comes off the intake manifold. Cut the rubber hose that connects the manifold water feed to the heater and splice in a tee adapter for the temp gauge sender. Be sure to use the same water feed line as the ECT sensor. That way you will get the most accurate temp readings.

Tee adapter info:
Make a pilgrimage to your local hardware or home supply center and get some copper pipe and a tee that fits the temp gauge sender. Solder two pieces of copper pipe onto a copper pipe tee with threads in the tee part. Find the correct brass fitting to match the temp sender threads to the tee fitting.

 

[HISSIN50]

FAL also makes a controller, but they cant handle the really large-draw fans.
That doesnt necessarily only mean the Mark VIII and other big-boys. Some of the smaller, cheaper motors have a massive start-up draw, which can make the varibale controllers perceive a short and shut down. It's just something to consider, no matter what variable controller is being used (this shouldn't be an issue with the JRichker method).

Good luck.

 

[Hizzle]

I am running the stock alternator on my '86 right now. The dual speed fan I have is fine until it kicks on to high, then the gauge shows breaking even. I also do no have a stereo in it either. I just ordered an electric water pump so I defintiely am going to be adding a different alternator. The fan is rated at 4500 cfm on the high speed and definitely drwas some juice. I have the low speed fan come on at 160 and the high speed kick on at 180 and shut off at 165, all give or take a few degrees. The controllers I mentioned above have 30 amp relays in them and I have not tripped one yet. They were fairly cheap and work fine, I'll just have to wait and see how long they last. I wound up spenging about $60 for them I think.

 

[JH96GT]

If you don't have a high current alternator, you can forget about using the fan. The stock 65 amp alternator isn't big enough to run the fan and the rest of the car.

Are you talking about running a Taurus w/ or w/o Brian's controller? I've got a Mark VIII and the dccontroller on my stock alternator and it handles it fine. The only thing I run is a Punch 45 occasionally, but haven't had any issues........ It's all on my 86.

Don't the fans draw about the same amperage?

 

[jrichker]

Are you talking about running a Taurus w/ or w/o Brian's controller? I've got a Mark VIII and the dccontroller on my stock alternator and it handles it fine. The only thing I run is a Punch 45 occasionally, but haven't had any issues........ It's all on my 86.

Don't the fans draw about the same amperage?

One of the DCControl's features is to use only the minimum amount of current needed to properly run the fan. That is probably what is saving your electrical system.

Figure this:
Ignition system & computer = 12 amps
Fuel pump = 12 amps
Exterior lights = 15 amps
Fan (heater or A/C) = 15 amps (can run between 5-25 amps depending on setting)
Radio & instruments = 10 amps
Wipers = 10 amps

That's grand total of 74 amps from a 65 amp alternator. Talk about overdrawn at the bank!

 

[JH96GT]

Yep. No way I could do it without. lol

 

[Shakerhood]

Does the SPAL unit work the same same way as the DCC, or is it just on and off?

 

[302RollinHard]

The SPAL has Low/high and off. The only thing you need to be careful of is they send you 12-14 gauge wire which didn't do the trick on my car. I ended up using the controller for the power actuating circuit of my 75A 4 pole relay. Works like a champ.