Need a new 302 block

Pops Fun

10 Year Member
Feb 15, 2003
961
14
59
Cincinnati, Ohio
Hi
Need a new block ... had a 347 stock block with blower, blew it up this fall. Actually the pistons let go first then the block. Had 520rwhp.

Can't decide what to do... Stock or after market.

Stock block + machining $1500-2000 machining plus block

I read that the dart shp is already machined, but the dart info says nothing about being machined. Good for 600hp anyone using it??? sounds like a deal to me.
 
I talked with a Dart rep at PRI about the SHP, also trying to decide which to go with on my '95 when I blow it to smithereens.

The rep said they were running the SHP to 1200hp no problems, that it was very much underrated at 600hp.

They come very well machined but should still be checked out before assembly.

Wes
 
I'm in your same boat man. I need to replace my vorteched 302 and I wanted to add some cubes but I'm afraid of longevity and wasting my $ on a stock block......sure wish they didn't suck heh.

I wanted to step to a 331/347, but I'm likely to break the block same as yourself. What stinks is that it gets SUPER $ to go to an aftermarket block and a stroker to boot.


I think the new BOSS blocks are machined but rough bore as it's going to change based on displacement needs, as it's going to differ from supplier to supplier. I've heard people putting another $1000 back into the aftermarket DARTs getting an allign hone and true decked and so forth. The boss seems to be a popular choice though for sure. Ever look into the World products end of things? I also grabbed a few brochures at PRI (awesome event)....place made me feel so insignificant with my car haha.
 
The only machine work specifically for a stroker engine is notching the bottom of the cylinders. You will have to do that with any block you get.

Kurt
 
Well you will generally have to clearance for the rod bolts (I thought it was actually on the sides of the block ie webbing honestly) , and only a 347+. No one's going to sell a fully machined aftermarket block though as bore sizes differ too much per application. Unless someone sells one with a .030 standard.

If I recall though, you don't need to do this on some aftermarket as they are cast with intentions of a relief. I think his main conern was machine work at all.
 
I'm in your same boat man. I need to replace my vorteched 302 and I wanted to add some cubes but I'm afraid of longevity and wasting my $ on a stock block......sure wish they didn't suck heh.

I wanted to step to a 331/347, but I'm likely to break the block same as yourself. What stinks is that it gets SUPER $ to go to an aftermarket block and a stroker to boot.


I think the new BOSS blocks are machined but rough bore as it's going to change based on displacement needs, as it's going to differ from supplier to supplier. I've heard people putting another $1000 back into the aftermarket DARTs getting an allign hone and true decked and so forth. The boss seems to be a popular choice though for sure. Ever look into the World products end of things? I also grabbed a few brochures at PRI (awesome event)....place made me feel so insignificant with my car haha.

it's a hard decision.... I have also heard of people putting another thousand or more into machining??? anyway I might go stock block... I had a bit of compression ... built the 347 high compression then added a blower. put thick head gaskets on it to cut the compression but it was a band aid. the pistons gave out before the block so I may go stock block 347 with dish pistons... lose some power, that will help the stock block. Hard decision for me.
 
Well you will generally have to clearance for the rod bolts (I thought it was actually on the sides of the block ie webbing honestly) , and only a 347+. No one's going to sell a fully machined aftermarket block though as bore sizes differ too much per application. Unless someone sells one with a .030 standard.

If I recall though, you don't need to do this on some aftermarket as they are cast with intentions of a relief. I think his main conern was machine work at all.

Buy a stock block maybe $100 or so + machining $ 1000
buy and aftermarket block already macnined $ 1700

only a $600.00 difference no brainer but add the $1000 machining on aftermarket block and $ 1700 difference.

Steve
 
I suppose it would also depend on whether or not you own a stroker kit or not or if you are having something assembled.

For instance, a D.S.S. 347 shortblock is about 2600.

Just to buy a stroker kit is @ 1800 or so, machine and assemby work will be another 600, your girdles, hardware, and the block itself.

It actually starts looking like a decent deal; but it's still another 1300 or so if you want a real block. Not only is that decent coin, but at that point; unless you have already spent the $ on a worked 347, you will likely want or need to change the heads, cam, intake and fuel system to really allow the benefits of an aftermarket block past the normal safety levels of power.

Then you get to break everything around it lol..... I guess it just gets too costly to justify for me. If I could afford it though I guess I wouldnt care.
 
another option might be to get a 351 shortblock that is already built and swap your heads and blower to it.

please feel free to tell me to STFU if you have no interest in going 351. the thing that makes it attractive (imo at least) is that it is much more robust than a 302, and the cost is not bad at all ... as illustrated by these 2 examples:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item53dda300b6 ($1200)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item20aec23cae ($900)
 
i couldn't afford a dart block when i did my 331 and went with the super pro bullet dss 331 based off a stock block. if i were to do it ever again, i would have saved more and let the car sit and put a dart in and call it a day. the block is practically indestructible so if you blew it up, you just bore it add more cubes the next time round :D
 
Buy a stock block maybe $100 or so + machining $ 1000
buy and aftermarket block already macnined $ 1700

only a $600.00 difference no brainer but add the $1000 machining on aftermarket block and $ 1700 difference.

Steve

Both blocks are going to cost the same in machine work. The aftermarket blocks don't come machined. Either way you are going to have to have a machinest bore specifically for your piston clearance.

Kurt
 
Well you will generally have to clearance for the rod bolts (I thought it was actually on the sides of the block ie webbing honestly) , and only a 347+. No one's going to sell a fully machined aftermarket block though as bore sizes differ too much per application. Unless someone sells one with a .030 standard.

If I recall though, you don't need to do this on some aftermarket as they are cast with intentions of a relief. I think his main conern was machine work at all.

The only extra machining required for a stroker motor is to have the bottom of the cylinder bores notched for rod bolt clearance. There is no interference anywhere else on the block. +1 on not being able to get a block pre bored and honed. That's going to have to be machined specifically for your pistons regardless of what kind of block you get.

Kurt
 
Both blocks are going to cost the same in machine work. The aftermarket blocks don't come machined. Either way you are going to have to have a machinest bore specifically for your piston clearance.

Kurt

The dart Does come machined, with nothing but some finish honing needed to finish it up.. It can also be bought with a 4.125" bore..

I'd go SHP... Good for an honest 1000 HP. Highly Highly UNDERRATED
 
The dart Does come machined, with nothing but some finish honing needed to finish it up.. It can also be bought with a 4.125" bore..

I'd go SHP... Good for an honest 1000 HP. Highly Highly UNDERRATED

When they say machined, they mean that it does not require having the lifter bores machined out like most aftermarket blocks. If you buy a stock Ford block from Summit (which for the love of god, do not do) it comes machined too. You're still going to have to have it rebored and honed for your specific piston gaps. What I'm saying, is that bottom line, if you bring a machinest your parts and either block and tell him you want a workable short block, he's going to charge you about the same.

Kurt
 
another option might be to get a 351 shortblock that is already built and swap your heads and blower to it.

please feel free to tell me to STFU if you have no interest in going 351. the thing that makes it attractive (imo at least) is that it is much more robust than a 302, and the cost is not bad at all ... as illustrated by these 2 examples:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-351W-Remanufactured-Short-Block-Engine-Roller_W0QQitemZ360200732854QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item53dda300b6 ($1200)


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-351W-351-SHORT-BLOCK-390HP-ENGINE-MOTOR-Mustang_W0QQitemZ140370918574QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item20aec23cae ($900)
Hi
What kind of work is involved?? Seem like withj the Vortech it sticks out pretty close to the radiator and air tubes already??

Steve
 
^^.....neither of those 351s use a piston/rings I would even start to consider w/ boost though.

a 351 is taller and wider. Swap headers, intake, and some mild futzing with charge piping is going to be your biggest things.