Need advice before I start my War with Tweeter

[DanB93]

I bought speakers and amp at the Tweeter, in Towson Maryland, and had them install them to my car to mate up with a Alpine I put in a few months ago. When I picked up the car from the shop it was raining heavily outside but the system sounded great. The next day when I turned on the car I noticed a pretty good hiss and engine noise in the speakers. Also I noticed that one of my door panels wasn't seated properly. So I took it back to the shop and told them about the noise and the panel. They fixed the panel and tried to isolate the noise but couldn't. They said there were out of audio isolators but would call me when they were in to help with the noise. Its been almost 5 weeks now and I have called a few times with no answer as to why they still haven't got their shipment in. I'm pissed about that but here is my real reason for this post.
My drivers door panel wasn't holding at the bottom because the scew mounts were coming out. I took off the panel to rest it and discovered that the installer didn't even run the wires, that they made me pay for, through the doors. They bridged the store bought wires to the original speaker wires in the door. Could this be why I have noise? One of the main reasons I wanted someone to install my speakers and amp is because I didn't want to mess with the wires in the doors. Is this common to pay for the installer to not make a complete run when you purchase new speaker wires and an amp is involved?
I didn't buy the high end wires but the don't sell cheap ones either and I thought I was getting a complete run from amp to speaker as anyone would. Now I have different gauge wire in the mist of the run and I paid good money to a "high end store" for it. What do you guys think??

 

[ChingonStang]

And that's why I will never let Best Buy, Circuit Chitty, Tweeter or any retail service chain touch my car.

If you ask and you pay for it, they should do it. It sounds like they were trying to take advantage of you and cut corners to get the job done faster so they could get the next job in the bay.

I'd take it back and have them fix all the issues you described. That is just crappy customer service for them to blow you off like that.

 

[ZakeriD]

do not let them put the isolaters in... that is such a BS bandaid. Check all the grounds, head unit, amp, battery... you should actually upgrade the grounds at the battery (batt to block to chassis).
You should also email Tweeter (http://www.tweeter.com/helpdesk/index.jsp?display=store&subdisplay=contact) to document your problem,

 

[1TRIKGT]

Im an installer and it sounds to me like its either a bad ground some where or even more likely how they ran your rca's to the 4-ch amp... Iv seen a lot of shops run the powers and rca's on the same side of the car to save install time and that causes the rca's to pick up engine noise through the power wire. Whatever you do dont let them go the easy road and put in isolators cause thats just a short cut to fixing it. As for the speaker wires, you have to run new wires from the amp to connect to the speakers. Its common place for installers to run the speaker wires from the amp to behind the head unit where the factory speaker wires are located and connect them there , Iv done this multiple times without any problems and theres not really anything wrong with doing it like that... as long as it isnt for real high powered speakers (like my boston z6 comp's that get 300w rms each). The only time that I run them into the doors is if for high powered speakers or if the customers phisically asks that it be done and that usually adds more cost and time to the install. so in the end, if you asked them to, they should have and Id take it back to them, drop off the keys, and tell them that any problems better be fixed by the time you pick it up or your going to write a letter complaining about their poor installation to the corporate office... I worked at tweeter for a short time and thay have a reputation to uphold. Hope this helps

Jose

 

[ZakeriD]

Its common place for installers to run the speaker wires from the amp to behind the head unit where the factory speaker wires are located and connect them there

actually the real easy way is- to run speaker wire directly to the rear speakers, then splice the front channel into the rear wires, behind the head unit splice the fr to rr and fl to rl, and now you have power to the fronts w/out have to mess with trim panels... Like you have said, there are a couple of areas that could have been overlooked but this SOUNDS like a botched install.