Need all kinds of help.

Congrats on your new ride!
Start w/a JLT CAI and a decent high octane tune/tuner. XCAL II is what I would recommend for a flasher.
I got in the game so early, my xcal I doesn't show codes. QQ

a vortex would not be my first choice but when you get a supercharger you can purchase it with a tuner, injectors, pump, etc. in kit form and save a little money. just wouldn't trust a canned tune. will need to be tuned on dyno. if the kit has cooler then would not waist time with shaker hit unless your going for looks not to mention pluming it up will be a problem depending on which kit you go with. .410 gears is a good idea. and if you go suprcharged you may as well put a street/strip clutch on your list as well.

you need to get this month's issue of MM&FF. there all in there plus some new kits just out. i have procharger and am impressed as hell with it. picked it up second hand a little cheaper. if i was going to pay full price for a kit i would get a wipple. roots type blowers are off idle HP and Torq. MM&F paired up procharger and kenny bell cars with stock bottom ends and they both ran 11.25 sec.

If you are going the supercharger route

A CAI and tuner will be a waste of money Cause most supercharger kits come with an air intake and tuner for the kit
Unless ur gettin a supercharger tuner kit

If you want the best 1/4 mile performance, go with a Procharger all the way. For the best street performance and the best low rpm response for coming out of road curves with the torque peak lower in the rpm scale go with a twin screw, not a roots style blower. Whipple has the twin screw kit that I would buy. Ford Racing (Whipple blower) has the edge on computer tuning as far as canned tunes go. Either way, you should have it dyno tuned as soon as all mods that affect fuel/airflow are completed like headers, exhaust, throttle body, etc. By the way, as long as you use the stock bottom end, don't waste cash on an aftermarket throttle body as the stock one is just fine at boost levels you'll be limited to. As far as gears go, 4.10's for street, 4.30's for the track. Aluminum flywheel and driveshaft will greatly improve performance and weight of car, but mostly the car will get up and go much quicker do to less rotating mass.

That MM&FF comparison of the Kenny Bell and Procharger involved my car. If we would have been able to shift faster, we would have been in the 10's. Justin had to shift like an old lady with my new Centerforce clutch, which has since been remedied.