Need EGR info.

88 Fox GT

Active Member
Nov 18, 2002
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36
Iowa
Does anyone have a diagram or picture of the EGR plumbing? I ran a test on the '88 the other day and came up with a "EGR not working properly" code. I forget what number it was. But, I need to know the plumbing route to make sure the idiot that owned the car before me didn't unhook something. If I find that everything is hooked up correctly, could it be the EVP sensor? I want to try to fix it while I'm under the hood deleting my smog pump. :D
Thanks.
 
The EGR system has a vacuum source (line from the intake manifold) that goes to the EVR, computer operated electronic vacuum regulator. The EGR valve and the passages in the heads and intake manifold route exhaust gas to the EGR spacer (throttle body spacer). The computer uses RPM, Load. and some other factors to tell the EVR to pass vacuum to open the EGR valve. The EGR sensor tells the computer how far the EGR valve is open. Then computer adjusts the signal sent to the EVR to hold, increase or decrease the vacuum. The computer adds spark advance to compensate for the recirculated gases and the slower rate they burn at.

The EGR shuts off at Wide Open Throttle (WOT), so it has minimal effect on performance. The addition of exhaust gas drops combustion temperature, increases gas mileage and reduces the tendency of the engine to ping. It can also reduce HC emissions by reducing fuel consumption.

mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.webp


Post your codes & we will try to give you some help. There are 5 different EGR related codes, each with a different cause & cure.
 

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it should be a code 33, EGR valve no openning properly? If so, its probably just a vacuum leak or the valve is pushed in, in which you need to actually put your mouth on the vacuum port and suck as hard as you can to get the valve to change direction. Then start the car and try again. If that still doesnt work, I can send you a brand new EGR valve and sensor for $50. They are normally over $100 at dealer. (I work for ford) Good luck dude.
 
Yes, it is code 33. I noticed the vacuum line was unhooked, so when I went to hook it back up, the brittle plastic tube got a small crack. I changed the EVP for the hell of it because I had one from a '94 Mustang in the garage, and it still gave me code 33.

I can try the sucking thing to see if it works, but I suppose I will probably have to replace the vacuum line since it cracked.
Thanks.
 
there is probably a bunch of them that are cracked, u just cant see it. Goto a parts store and buy some rubber tubing that looks like it will go on snug over the existing vacuum lines. Or try pep boys or autozone, they have "vacuum" tubing that you can buy. Then just replace as much of the vacuum tree as you can. Thats what I did and I have no leaks, and works great.
 
blue87lx said:
i pulled my egr valave off awhile ago and it was full of some liquid.. maybe a light gas smell cant remember.. what causes this?
Possible leaking fuel pressure regulator diapharm. The gas gets sucked back into the vacuum plumbing. Most FPR's aren't rebuildable, you pitch them in the trash. Kirban and maybe Aeromotive are two exceptions to the no rebuild statement.
 
blue87lx said:
i pulled my egr valave off awhile ago and it was full of some liquid.. maybe a light gas smell cant reemember.. what causes this?
Sorry that I didn't explain this better before, but here's the best answer. Before spending any money on the FPR, remove the vacuum line from it and run the engine at idle for a while. If it leaks, you will see gasoline come out the port where the vacuum line connected to it. Or you will find gas in the vacuum line itself when you disconnect it from both the FPR and the intake manifold. In any case there should not be any evidence of gasoline in the vacuum line or on the FPR where the vacuum line connects.