need guidance for replacing front springs

The OTC tool is the safest DIY method. I've used both other common methods but generally do not post about them anymore because people have struggled or complained.

Good luck.
 
Man...I just installed a set of FRP A-arms 2 weeks ago and it was a bear until I read about the clamps.
I also used the 34.00 spring compressor from O'Reillys.
If I had to do it again I would use the same spring compressor along with 6-8 large hose clamps (the ones made in the USA).
Once you compress the springs to the correct height you then install the clamps on different coils all around the spring.
Then you install the spring and raise the arm to secure it and just cut the clamps.
Good luck with them.
You may not have a hard time if you are installing shorter springs.
 
I would use the correct Spring Compressor to be safe as possible, there is alot of stored energy in a Spring and if those clamps let go you could end up with a serious injury.
 
This is a topic i tend to not lend much advice on because of the danger involved, but i will say this.....if you use the "pry bar method" to get them out, DON'T stand in the way of the spring.


something about the darwin awards always comes to mind when i hear about someone doing springs :lol:
 
Honestly man, if you can find someone to assist you with the fronts, i recommend it. I put some Eibach pro kit springs on my car tuesday night, and i almost burned my car to the ground in the process. not because of safety, but because i was frustrated.

If you can get a good quality (read: heavy duty) spring compressor, get one. The way i did mine was as follows: (i didnt have a spring compressor)

1. jack up front of car
2. put car on jackstands (preferably on the subframe connectors if you got them)
3. disassemble brakes, remove caliper & disc. (11/16 bolts on caliper)
4. remove dust shield (3 - 3/8 bolts) then remove sway bar end link
5. place jack under A-arm. jack it up so the A-arm is fully supported by the jack.
6. wiggle the jack to make sure it wont shift when its under pressure from the spring.
7. remove the 2 strut bolts
8. move strut out of the way
9. get away from the wheelwell
10. SLOWLY lower the jack thats supporting the A-arm.
11. stay out of the wheelwell opening, get a long prybar, and tap the stock spring untill it comes loose
12. once the spring is out, check and make sure you have all of your body parts still intact.
13. take the top rubber job and transfer it to the new spring.
14. insert the top of the spring into the perch.
15. take note on the A-arm where the spring stop is. (that is the little "bump" where the last coil on the bottom of the spring is supposed to meet)
16. insert prybar under spring
17. step on A-arm, and using prybar, pry up and in at the same time to seat the bottom coil of the spring into the A-arm
18. When you hear the spring pop into the A-arm, back away, and give it a second to settle to make sure its not going to pop out at you.
19. while standing AWAY from the wheelwell, start jacking up the A-arm (you might hear some creaking and popping while the spring seats.
20. check to make sure the bottom coil is seated against the little "stop" on the bottom of the A-arm.
21. If it is, continue jacking until the holes for the strut and spindle line up. Insert the bolts, and tighten.
22. assemble your brakes and stick your wheel back on
23. move to the other side and repeat the process.

For the rear springs:

(This is easier if you have 2 floor jacks)

1. Jack up rear end and put jackstands under the rear frame (not on the axle)
2. support differential with a floor jack
3. remove wheels
4. remove 4 bolts holding on rear sway bar.
5. take a second floor jack and support your lower control arm.
6. remove bolt holding rear shock. move it to the side.
7. remove bolts connecting lower control arm to differential
8. slowly lower the jack letting the pressure off the rear spring
9. (this spring isnt under anywhere near as much pressure as the front, mine just fell out)
10. take the rubber thingy off the top of the old spring, and put it on the new one.
11. put the spring in, and pay close attention that the last coil on the bottom of the rear spring if facing the wheelwell (you want to do this on both sides)
12. jack the lower control arm back up and put your bolts back in.
13. reattach the rear shock
14. move to the other side and repeat process.
(to me, it was eaiser to remove the rear sway bar all together to get it out of the way, then i reinstalled it after everything was done)
15. put your wheels back on, slowly lower the car, and drink several beers.
 
When I put the rear springs on my '92 LX all I did was undo the shocks from inside the trunk. I didn't have to mess with the control arms or sway bar. Maybe it's easier to get the springs in if you do all that but it didn't take me long at all.
 
For the Correct placement of the Front Springs look for 2 holes in the pocket in the A Arm, the Pigtail of the Spring should cover the one hole but not the other. For the Rear Springs the Pigtails should be to the rear and both sides pointing to the Drivers Side.
 
The pry bar method is a tad on the risky side - the other method (often referred to as the MFE method) involves using a bottle jack as well as a floor jack. Doing it this way involves removing the A arm bolts and lowering the A arm so the spring can't pop out - I did mine this way and it worked well and was relatively safe if you took your time. Do a search either here or on Corral and you should be able to find it.
 
I remember replacing my front springs, it was a biiatch. I didn't have any clamps, just a pry bar and some spare pieces of scrap metal and bolts lying around, so I made my own clamps by taking two pieces of scrap metal, drilling holes in them and then sandwiching the the spring until it was just the right size. Of course, to get the contraption off, I had to cut the bolt, but it worked. The spring never even attempted to kill me.

For the rear, all I had to do was take out the bottom bolt of my shock and the spring practically fell out. Just use a jack to raise your rear end to get the shock reattached.
 
The pry bar method is a tad on the risky side - the other method (often referred to as the MFE method) involves using a bottle jack as well as a floor jack. Doing it this way involves removing the A arm bolts and lowering the A arm so the spring can't pop out - I did mine this way and it worked well and was relatively safe if you took your time. Do a search either here or on Corral and you should be able to find it.

HISSIN50 was kind enough to send me this link
http://www.mustangmotorsport.com/springs.html

Will lowering springs need to be compressed when I install them if I just decide to undo the struts?