the stock one broke and blew out the rubber seal at the end and the brake fluid just falls out basically. ford discontinued the part and i can't find a replacement online. what are my options? i want to do it right as i plan to build and work this car for a while. thanks
yeah thanks i have tried...i found an 93 lx 5.0 valve on ebay but idk if it is the same as the GT....should be right? also, i have rear disc brakes so was wondering if i should upgrade everything or dont bother? why couldn't i just put the ford racing solid plug in the end of the p-valve?
Install the solid plug in the front (after you remove the internal PV rod) and that eliminates the rubber plug at the end that always leaks.
Then install a Wilwood Adjustable prop valve at the union on the firewall.
FYI, I beleive all 87-93 combo valves are the same....even 4-bangers. Even if you found a 4-banger one, you could just swap the PV rod out of the front of yours into it. When you open it up, they should both be the same color. Ford annodized the rods as a way to tell them apart. I beleive it should be gold. The SN95's use a red one.
yeah that is the valve i need....so in the upgrade for the rear discs (which was done b4 i got it ) it should also have an adjustable valve? what about the master cylinder upgrade is that really needed? brakes felt fine b4. thanks
That's a 2-port MC combo valve used on the 80-86 Mustangs. You need an E7 valve used on the 87+ Mustangs with a 3-port MC.
You can make that valve work, but it will require some modifications. That valve is very desireable as the 5th fitting in the rear makes for an easy 3-2 conversion when swapping in a 2port MC
What brakes do you have? When you upgraded to rear disks, you really should have changed the MC, booster and added an adjustable valve. The drum brake MC is tiny (21mm) and when used with disks, it may feel overly soft and may not flow enough fluid to brake to max effort.
Do you have 4-lug turbo coupe disks? If so, you should be running a 1993 Cobra MC and booster. Are you sure you don't already?? Pictures?
i just bought the car last week...here is a short list of mods already done that i know of....
gt40 upper and lower, 70mm throttle body, bbk cai, bbk lowering springs, bbk chassis stabilizer bars?, camber plates, cat delete with borlas, bbk shorty headers, short shifter, f303 cam, and im sure im missing a few things.
as for the brakes. it has 4lug disc brakes (dont know why they didn't go for the 5 lug conversion but i dont want to spend the extra $$ right now) ill include a pic of the setup...you can see at the front of the pv where the fluid is just coming right out.
That's a stock 3-port MC and booster. It really should have been changed when the rear disks were installed.
As for te PV, install the ford racing plug in the front and put an adjustavle valve on the firewall line and hopefully that should take care of the leak.
Make sure you clean that brake fluid off VERY WELL. If left, it will eat the metal away on the fender and you can get some very bad rust. Degrease the hell out of it!
if everything worked fine, than replace it and be done with it. its not hard to do you just need some line wrenchse and you have to bleed the brakes afterwards. pretty simple no more than two hours labor
well everything worked fine but finding a good clean used pv valve is harder than it sounds....i think im going to go the route of a in line pv and the ford racing stock pv end plug. who makes a good pv?
yeah if you look at my pic its leaking out of the middle where it looks like there is a silver washer (but there isn't). i believe we are talking about the same spot. okay i see the wilwood one. i saw a few with gauges on them but i guess i prob dont need that right?
thanks again.
also is there some way of locking the pv after you set it for the rear brakes so no one can just reach in and turn the valve? just wondering.
Honestly, the adjustable isn't that critical. I play with my adjustable knob all the time. I know my setting is 2 turns out, so i just back it out and turn it in.