need help getting the most power for the money I have
- Thread starter custom98master
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
Adam95GT
New Member
cjrpony
Member
I agree with the GT40P heads and intake. But instead of the NOS, I would do a better cam while you have the heads off. You will also need headers for the P heads, so I would do a Cat back also. Maybe a good set of 24 lb injectors and matching MAF. You should come well under budget, especially if you can find some good deals on Ebay or Craigslist.
I am basing all this on you doing the whenching
I agree with the GT40P heads and intake. But instead of the NOS, I would do a better cam while you have the heads off. You will also need headers for the P heads, so I would do a Cat back also. Maybe a good set of 24 lb injectors and matching MAF. You should come well under budget, especially if you can find some good deals on Ebay or Craigslist.
I am basing all this on you doing the whenching
this is what i was thikg to but what cam would be best for a street car this car i want to do this to isnt my daily driver but im just looking fot a faster street car oh and yeah i can do all my mechanic work
Adam95GT
New Member
IF you get a cam you will need a tune and will probably break your budget. you should be able to get away with a 150shot on stock injectors. You cant depend on a "calibrated maf" to tune your car for you.
my budget is around 1500 if i go over alittle it would be ok i just do not want to run nos is all but thanks for your help to though
what kind of cam should i use and what headers would work long tube or shortties?
cjrpony
Member
The first thing you wanna do is get a steeper gearset
No other mod will give you a gain like steep gears will do :Word:
I'd do 373's
Grady
I agree with the GT40P heads and intake. But instead of the NOS, I would do a better cam while you have the heads off. You will also need headers for the P heads, so I would do a Cat back also. Maybe a good set of 24 lb injectors and matching MAF. You should come well under budget, especially if you can find some good deals on Ebay or Craigslist.
I am basing all this on you doing the whenching
Yeah, throw the gears in there too!
I would do shorty headers, I don't know if you can get long tubes to fit P heads
I think you could get by without a tune, althought it would help. I ran Performer heads and intake and an F cam before my current setup and it ran and idled good on the stock tune. But the 94/95 computers are finicky, so, who knows.
I got more time to talk today
Lets talk NA only options for the time being
Lets go OEM sb cause that most likely is how you're thinking
The 373's will go with the two main methods of NA routes you have
1) OEM parts like GT 40 stuff
2 Aftermarket parts like tfs/edel/afr heads, aftermarket intake & cam
Generally Speaking ............
#1 you'll get Cobra power or a bit more ... 240-280 rwhp sae
#2 you'll do a bit better ... 280-310 rwhp sae
Both methods will vary depending on parts you choose
and
More important will be how you support the main combo parts
You know ... stuff like choice of headers, tuning method, etc
Said all that cause ...............
NOW is the time to decide which way you wanna go :Word:
or
Ya might buy the wrong stuff thus having to buy stuff twice
In Other Words ... Ya really need to make a long term plan
Classic example is choice of headers
Shorties or LT's
On a NA combo ... LT's promote better low/mid range tq
however
If such knowledge was not known .............
You could do as a lot do and you then find yourself comitted to shorties
and shortie mid pipe
All I'm saying is ..............
Go into this whole Stang Modding thing with your eyes ... WIDE OPEN :Word:
Do the research BEFORE you spend bucks
So ............. How serious do you wanna get here
or
How fast do you wanna spend
Grady
Lets talk NA only options for the time being
Lets go OEM sb cause that most likely is how you're thinking
The 373's will go with the two main methods of NA routes you have
1) OEM parts like GT 40 stuff
2 Aftermarket parts like tfs/edel/afr heads, aftermarket intake & cam
Generally Speaking ............
#1 you'll get Cobra power or a bit more ... 240-280 rwhp sae
#2 you'll do a bit better ... 280-310 rwhp sae
Both methods will vary depending on parts you choose
and
More important will be how you support the main combo parts
You know ... stuff like choice of headers, tuning method, etc
Said all that cause ...............
NOW is the time to decide which way you wanna go :Word:
or
Ya might buy the wrong stuff thus having to buy stuff twice
In Other Words ... Ya really need to make a long term plan
Classic example is choice of headers
Shorties or LT's
On a NA combo ... LT's promote better low/mid range tq
however
If such knowledge was not known .............
You could do as a lot do and you then find yourself comitted to shorties
and shortie mid pipe
All I'm saying is ..............
Go into this whole Stang Modding thing with your eyes ... WIDE OPEN :Word:
Do the research BEFORE you spend bucks
So ............. How serious do you wanna get here
or
How fast do you wanna spend
Grady
Some low mileage AFR165 heads, Edelbrock Performer TMOSS ported intake and some gears for now. IMO a better option than iron heads because you have more room for growth as you find more money, without starting over again. I just happen to know where you might accomplish this with your budget. I have a 347 in progress now. I dropped you a PM.
I have a 347 in progress now. I dropped you a PM.
Zero_chance
Founding Member
Very much in agreement with the thought of going with gears. I swapped out my AODe for a T5 and put it in 3.73s over last winter in place of the factory 2.73s.... its like a whole new car. If your exhaust is stock, thats a good place to start. If you dont get emissions tested, swap out the catted H pipe for an off road pipe. Long tubes are nice for power but not easy to work with in terms of installation and often hang very low to the earth. Me personally, I'd stick with a good set of shorties and save on the headaches. Once you start getting into the top end stuff, thats where your budget starts flying out the window. Sure you can get a good set of heads for X amount of dollars.. but youll really get the most benefit when you combine them with an intake... which is better if you have a bigger throttle body... which you can add a nice cam to take advantage of the new flow... so you might as well up the injectors...
Its a seemingly never ending story unless you sit down and map out exactly what you want and stick to it. I used to stay up late trying to think of the best combo possible but theres so many options out there it'll drive you insane. Im getting away from the most common route where everyone wants the most power possible. I want decent power without the headaches of trying to squezze longtubes in or needing a degree in speedology to make sure I have the best complimentary setup out there where everything works in tandem. I think my short term plan is a trick flow HCI just to make things easy. Complete kit with little guess work needed.
Its a seemingly never ending story unless you sit down and map out exactly what you want and stick to it. I used to stay up late trying to think of the best combo possible but theres so many options out there it'll drive you insane. Im getting away from the most common route where everyone wants the most power possible. I want decent power without the headaches of trying to squezze longtubes in or needing a degree in speedology to make sure I have the best complimentary setup out there where everything works in tandem. I think my short term plan is a trick flow HCI just to make things easy. Complete kit with little guess work needed.
Husky44
10 Year Member
If you haven't already picked up on it from Grady and others...GEARS first. You'll get the most SOTP street performance improvement from an upgrade to 3.73s than you will any other mod. Once that's done, then start looking at the front end of your drive train.
FWIW, I do my own wrenching, and I'll think twice about doing gears again. I did it on my vert, and I didn't get them set up right. This might be one of the few times it's worth it to pay someone who really knows what their doing, than to teach yourself.
FWIW, I do my own wrenching, and I'll think twice about doing gears again. I did it on my vert, and I didn't get them set up right. This might be one of the few times it's worth it to pay someone who really knows what their doing, than to teach yourself.
gears,subframes,if your into straight line driving pick up some lakewood traction action lift bars..look for a set of used gt40 heads..preferable the standard not the p heads..call powerheads.com he will cnc port the heads for like 4 to 500..they will flow in the 230 to 240 intake and 175 to 190 ex..then look for roller rockers with the cam u want in mind...this is a timed process..meaning it takes a good amout of time to piece a car together with your end goal in mind for most of us unless your born rich..the heads in all will be about 7 to 800 total with porting..aluminums are great but expensive and hard to get at a cheap price.work from the very back of the car forward..first gears...then the foundation of the car I E suspention..then id go to brakes..then power...my father has drag raced door slammers his whole life and this is what he has taught me.
it is but a good set of iron heads is worth the money.....if you can get em cheaper or even sometimes free it damn sure worth it..ive never been on the aluminum bandwagon till you get into the strokers and larger cubic inch engines..its hard to beat ported iron heads for a street car...the weight savings are nice on aluminums but get the same guy behind a 270 to 300 rwhp car with ported irons and hell be happy.and when you get use to the power add you blower or sqeeze to the mix and happy once again.its all about money and how deep your pocket is and where you want the car to be in the end..there are lots of guys in the low 12s or high 11s with iron heads.
If I was ever to consider the GT40 route, I would probably look for somebody that already had the expensive work done and wants to upgrade to aluminum, because he will lose his arse when he tries to sell them for anywhere near what even a tired set of aluminum heads will bring. I am not knocking going fast for cheap. Not at all, but it ceases to be cheap as soon as you take used heads to the machineshop.
whitesqual
Active Member
or a used procharger
And If you don't want to tune your own ride, a mail order Moates J3 chip.
Looks like his thread is starting to go somewhere
Here is some basic LT info some might not be aware of
Search on our forum is your friend http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/722805-header-ground-clearance.html
I'll cut to the chase and give my take on the Iron/Alum head thing
You can easily have 2/3 of the cost of Alum heads in a nice set of
OEM Irons when you get them setup to make max power
OEM Iron Heads ...
piss poor e ports
ped mount rockers
heavy
Alum Aftermarket Heads ...
better e AND I ports
can go with stud mount rockers
lighter
later technology which means cam can be more suited these heads
Looking at the big picture ... I think here is where the additional 1/3 in
cost is more than justified :Word:
Now ... I wanna say this
My attitude in hot rodding a Stang goes kinda like this
You GOTTA know your long term plan
If you want the best power AND torque curves
you need to upgrade pretty muchly everything
Don't matter if you go OEM or AFTERMARKET
Again staying NA .... I'm not against PA ... btw
But the OP seems to be wanting to look at that option for now
Anyway .... Decide on the three main parts h/c/i
then
You gotta get the supporting parts like inj's, meter, tb, etc
Bluntly ... or ... Just saying it without any sugar coating
$1500 is just the start of what it takes to go the max using an
OEM sb and normal NA hot rod parts
If doing a bit at a time as money allows
I like the idea of doing heads and cam at the same time
then
All the other parts are simple bolt ons
and
You've already gotten the basic foundation in place for the other stuff
Good thing here is we got plenty
of gear heads that have done this mod thing all different ways :Word:
That is what can help everybody in our community
btw ... if the OP wants to later talk PA
that will open up a WHOLE DIFFERENT can o worms
But
You do wanna look at ALL options before laying down the cash
Grady
Here is some basic LT info some might not be aware of
Search on our forum is your friend
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/722805-header-ground-clearance.htmlI'll cut to the chase and give my take on the Iron/Alum head thing
You can easily have 2/3 of the cost of Alum heads in a nice set of
OEM Irons when you get them setup to make max power
OEM Iron Heads ...
piss poor e ports
ped mount rockers
heavy
Alum Aftermarket Heads ...
better e AND I ports
can go with stud mount rockers
lighter
later technology which means cam can be more suited these heads
Looking at the big picture ... I think here is where the additional 1/3 in
cost is more than justified :Word:
Now ... I wanna say this
My attitude in hot rodding a Stang goes kinda like this
You GOTTA know your long term plan
If you want the best power AND torque curves
you need to upgrade pretty muchly everything
Don't matter if you go OEM or AFTERMARKET
Again staying NA .... I'm not against PA ... btw
But the OP seems to be wanting to look at that option for now
Anyway .... Decide on the three main parts h/c/i
then
You gotta get the supporting parts like inj's, meter, tb, etc
Bluntly ... or ... Just saying it without any sugar coating
$1500 is just the start of what it takes to go the max using an
OEM sb and normal NA hot rod parts
If doing a bit at a time as money allows
I like the idea of doing heads and cam at the same time
then
All the other parts are simple bolt ons
and
You've already gotten the basic foundation in place for the other stuff
Good thing here is we got plenty
of gear heads that have done this mod thing all different ways :Word:
That is what can help everybody in our community
btw ... if the OP wants to later talk PA
that will open up a WHOLE DIFFERENT can o worms
But
You do wanna look at ALL options before laying down the cash
Grady
Similar threads
