Need help installing rockers. I'm so confused.

are your guide plates centered up? we had that problem with my friends AFR's as well, we had to loosen them and slide them over a hair or two. as for pushrod length, since you're running stock base circle cam, stock type lifters, and AFR's, they should take the stock length pushrods...but double cking never hurts...

I ck'd out your website-nice mods very well done

Yep you need to use the guideplates (torque them with the studs) once you find the right center. You want the best geometry possible. Take your time with it...

I use stock pushrod length with my AFR's and FTI cam (quite large).

...i'm starting to lose my faith with AFR's quality control...

you should be able to move those plates around a little bit in just about any direction so that the rocker is centered on the valve stem tip...

after you've achieved as close to perfect as you can get, torq down the studs to recommended spec (they should be about 35ft lbs, IIRC-someone else ck this)...then ck all the alignments again, and press on from there with your initial lash adjustments...

which can also be found on about a billion threads on here..

60lbs for the rocker studs. Use blue loctite underneath.

Put the guideplates in whatever position (it shouldn't be too extreme) to get the best center on the stem.

You setup the valvetrain (go thru the stud adjustment procedure) and then you adjust the guideplates against the pushrods as little as possible. Just enough to get it where it will ride on the stem. I would turn the engine over manually when doing this to see what it does under motion.

You don't use torque on the stud mounted adjustments (I never have)...you use the zero lash method and turn it 1/2 turn (that is what I did anyways).

1. Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder you are going to set the pre-load on. Only do one cylinder at a time.

2. Rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation (clockwise) and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake rocker arm.

3. To adjust, back off the intake rocker arm adjusting nut and remove any tension from the push rod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the push rod seat up against the retaining lock, if you give it time to do so.

4. Twist the intake push rod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the push rod, you are at "Zero Lash". Turn the adjusting nut down one half to three-quarters of a turn from that point for street applications. Use 1/8 to 1/4 turn for race applications. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.

5. Continue to turn the engine, watching that same intake valve/rocker you just set. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.

6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.

There may be some initial valvetrain noise when the engine is first fired up but once oil pressure has stabilized and the engine heats up, it should quiet right down to a normal level.

Remember that some racier camshafts will have a mechanical sound to them and will not be a silent as factory units.

Good Luck...just do what you got to do practically to keep the roller tip as much centred as possible on the stem...