Hello new guy here. I know it's not a mustang but it's a ford 2.3 none the less. The engine is in a 76 pinto (carburated). The engine shuts down after warming up and driving for about two miles. It will start up again after sitting for half an hour cooling down. I have changed the electronic ignition module, coil, cap, rotor, fuel pump, fuel filter,and rubber hoses. I have good spark and fuel flow, plugs and wires are good, but still no go. Any idea's what I'm doing wrong? Any info would be great. Thanks in advance. al
need help on Pinto 2.3
- Thread starter aljr
- Start date
I was thinking that also. The car ran well before this, does not have any exhaust leaks on the fuel lines, I drained the tank last year when I was messing around with the sending unit. I still get fuel to the carb when it won't start I can hear and smell it. Thanks for the info, I'll keep looking into it. al
Wish I could be of more help, but the most I've ever done with a carbed engine is change the spark plugs on one...can't say I know much about carbs.
What does it do when it shuts off? Does it sputter and die, or just die with no warning?
What does it do when it shuts off? Does it sputter and die, or just die with no warning?
white1989
New Member
rd
Founding Member
If it has the Duraspark 2 electronic ignition, I suggest changing the pickup coil inside the distributor.
These are notorious for failing hot exactly like what you describe. If you can get it to fail in the driveway, check for spark when you crank it. If no spark, or poor spark, and you have changed the coil and duraspark box, try this.
It should be under the rotor and advance mechanism, and is the item the wires in the dist connect to. Should be $20 or so at a parts store.
I changed one once, and then put the old one under a halogen light on the garage floor with an ohm meter across it, and a thermometer next to it. It was fine cold, but when it got to 122 deg, it went to an open circuit like a switch was thrown.
Cooled down and came on again. Really annoying when its in the vehicle.
These are notorious for failing hot exactly like what you describe. If you can get it to fail in the driveway, check for spark when you crank it. If no spark, or poor spark, and you have changed the coil and duraspark box, try this.
It should be under the rotor and advance mechanism, and is the item the wires in the dist connect to. Should be $20 or so at a parts store.
I changed one once, and then put the old one under a halogen light on the garage floor with an ohm meter across it, and a thermometer next to it. It was fine cold, but when it got to 122 deg, it went to an open circuit like a switch was thrown.
Cooled down and came on again. Really annoying when its in the vehicle.
Checked float levels and cleaned some sediment out of the float bowls, used carb cleaner and suck out the jet holes. Car still vapor locks. I can hear the fuel entering the carb while it's shutting down and I can keep in running with carb cleaner. Are there other things I need to check for the cause? Thanks in advance.al
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