I'd suggest a 347 crate from a reputable company. I got mine from Probe (CHP). It's their 425HP stroker long block (a few years ago $6,250). I added a custom Crane cam since my car is a 94 with finicky ECC. I got the AFR 185 CNC'd heads. I added a Holley Systemax Intake, 30lb Injectors, Pro-M 80MM MAF, 70MM TB, MAC 1-3/4" Long Tube Ceramic Headers, 3" Prochamber, 3" Cat Back. She's a beast with all this.
I'd sell your FRPP Shorties and GT40 intake and use the money for better flowing stuff like I did.
I'd sell your FRPP Shorties and GT40 intake and use the money for better flowing stuff like I did.
Yes, your stock block will take that kind of power. All those companies sell good kits. I used CHP and bought a stroker kit, then used my original block. All forged internals would be best, but like me, you can probably get away with using a cast crank (Scat 9000 series) if your not racing it too much or using a power adder. The 9000 series is a substantial upgrade over the stock crank. The AFR 185s will be great heads for your combo and goal. The Gt40 intake and small tubes will cost some power...mainly the GT40 intake. However, if you have it ported, or port it yourself (see DIYporting.com), it could work out for you... you may just leave a few HP on the table. You will get 350HP easy with this setup, and will probably see 400HP without too much effort as well. A custom cam would be best, but I like the Anderson cams as well. Comp cams could also spec one out for you. Personally, I love the GT40 tubular intake. If your not after every single HP, you could probably just port the lower and reach your goal. Also, don't forget the small things.... Mass air meter, injectors, TB, fasteners, gasets, new balancer, new flywheel, probably new clutch, new rockers arms, new pushrods, new wires, new plugs, new cap, rotor and coil....all those little things eat up your budget. I would weigh buying a long block vs. pulling all the parts together yourself and see which one is cheaper. Good luck with it!
Joe
Joe
check your local machine shop's pricing before you buy anything separately...also make sure they are not morons...sometime the money you might save is not be worth the hassle or time...especially if you're paying someone to do the work, IE; pull the current motor from the car and strip it down to a bare block...most pre-assembled 306/331/347 shortblocks come in under $2k, so factor in like $1k for a rotating assembly, boring, notching, balancing, plus remove/install labor, you're probably not far off...
and i agree about the forged crank& rods..the block will split long before cast stuff will...