Need Help Please Help 1990 Mustang

[projectstangz]

Hi Everyone I want to Start of by saying that i have totally gived up on tryingto fix my car and iam to the point were i feel forced to take my car into a shop but i want to try avoid doing that and try to fix my self if possible, problem started since one night i raced someone on the freeway and over reved my car to about 5500-6500 for about 8 seconds at the most here's abrief description of what my 1990 mustang 5.0 v8 does:

When leaving from home to work in the mornings cars drive perfectly fine has lots of power but once car warms up to regular temp 160 - 180 which take about good 15min. to 20 min dr., car starts acting funny shakes when i take off from a dead stop i can hear the change in engine sound when at idle and while driving and accelerating car losses somewhat power.

Thing I have Installed my engine:

Stock 302 V8 5.0, upper and lower cobra intake, 24lb injectors, calibrated maf pro flow for 24 injectors, e303 cam 190 bbk fuel pump bbk adjustable fuel pressure regulator, stock heads, bbk shorty headers, bbk cold air intake, bbk 75mm throttle body.

Thing I have done to Try to Fix Problem Changed Spark Plugs, Distribuitor set my timing to 12,Spark Plug Wires, did oil Change Clean Maf, Changed Idle Air Control Valve, Changed Tps Sensor set to .98-.99, Changed Egr, Changed Egr Sensor, Changed Coolant Temp Sensor, Changed Air Temp Sensor, changed injector wire harness, Changed Fuel Filter, changed o2 sensors, changed computer Checked fuel pressure pressure is good, cheked for vaccum leaks vaccum is good, got good battery voltage all grounds are good.

Please let me know if iam missing anything, anything would be really apreciated and helpfull thank you very much everybody

 

[jonbacon]

Sounds like could be a heating issue, not a expert but what thermostat do you have in it..had a similar issue car was getting hot, lost some power...are you running elec fans or stock radiator fan?? ..

 

[HISSIN50]

In case I missed it, were there any codes?

Have you run a cylinder balance test?

 

[jrichker]

Don't throw parts at a problem, diagnose.

Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.

Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Post the codes you get and I will post 86-93 model 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes. I do not have a complete listing for 94-95 model 5.0 Mustangs at this time.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. On a manual transmission car, be sure to press the clutch to the floor.
Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and driveablity problems

Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, and clutch (if present) is pressed to the floor, and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/p-7208-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx– It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

 

[projectstangz]

I have a 190 thermostat aluminum 3 core radiator and a electric fan.

No I havent runned a Cylinder Balance Test but wouldnt i have the problem all the time not just when it warms up if it was a cylinder problem??

I have no cel Light but i did scann it and all i get is pretty much codes that have to do with emission like 12,44,94,34 this is with a koer test and with a koeo test i get i believe 67 park/neutral position (pnp) switch circuit open-a/c on during self test and 33 and 94

Please Helpppppppppppp

 

[cd86cpe]

did anyone

ask do you still have the cat's on it? if so they may be getting plugged? I had this happen before more than once but it would loose more power the longer it was driven, or you said it over revved possibly bent a valve and when cold it doesn't effect it till car warm's up. Just some thought's I threw out here.

 

[HISSIN50]

An EGR code is worth looking into if you have an EGR on the vehicle. If the EGR is leaking once the car warms up (and the EGR would be commanded to function), that could cause a miss and lack of power.

The point of the cylinder balance test would be to tell you which cylinder(s) are experiencing the misfire - it does not tell you what the issue is, but it helps narrow down the search area.

 

[projectstangz]

I dont Have Cats i have an Off Road BBK X-Pipe so thats answers that questions now in regards to the valve that could be a posibility I will be checking that soon.

I do Have an Egr and I have Replaced it with a new one and its getting Vaccum to it too and No Fix problem still there, i guss i will be doing a cylinder balance check soon too thats a good idea!

 

[HISSIN50]

The EGR valve doesn't ever have vacuum going to it at idle (hot or cold), correct?

 

[Mustang5L5]

I have a 190 thermostat aluminum 3 core radiator and a electric fan.

No I havent runned a Cylinder Balance Test but wouldnt i have the problem all the time not just when it warms up if it was a cylinder problem??

I have no cel Light but i did scann it and all i get is pretty much codes that have to do with emission like 12,44,94,34 this is with a koer test and with a koeo test i get i believe 67 park/neutral position (pnp) switch circuit open-a/c on during self test and 33 and 94

Please Helpppppppppppp

Code 67 means you didn't push the clutch in during the tests. Hold the clutch in from start to finish.

Code 12, 33 and 34 are important. You'd want to fix those.

At the end of the KOER tests, give the engine 1/2 throttle to start the cylinder balance test. Keep holding the clutch in until the engine idles down and blinks a code at you. You want a 9 (or 90 if you use a scan tool) here to signal all cylinders contributing equally.

Then, erase all the codes and retest again after a day.



Checking codes is the first step of any diagnostic method. There's no point guessing and wasting money and time if the computer has the means to get you on the right path at least.

I'm half expecting the CBT to tell us 1 cylinder is missing..in which case now we can begin to offer suggestions as to how to diagnose the problem from there

 

[projectstangz]

No Vaccum going to the EGR at cold or HOT only if i accelerate!

I Didnt hold the clutch in, I will do that next thanks so much by the way for all the help peoples!

 

[projectstangz]

Found my problem thanks to everyone for their time and thoughts

 

[Boydster]

So what was it? Might help someone else when doing searches in the future...

 

[projectstangz]

Injector #7 was staying stuck open when car reached normal temperature