Need help:surging problem when cold, fuel pump doesn't want to stop priming

grey5.0beast

Cookies should never be DUNKED!!!
Aug 3, 2004
0
1
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atl ga
What could this be?

The symptoms:

I can hear the fuel pump just keep priming constantly, doesn't stop when it is cold, until I sit in it for about 20 min.s and constantly turn it on and off till it finally stops.

I replaced the FPR thinking it was the problem, only to get in the car this morning for it not to start, oh well, got a new FPR.

When it finally does start, it surges badly from around 450 rpms to 1100 and threatens to die, throws a code, and every surge the check engine light comes on.

Those are the symptoms, here are the memory codes it is giving me:

Mem code I think 53 and there is another one, one comes on at WOT above 4k rpms, the other when it is surging, anyway I can tell what is causing what problem?

One is an erratic, closed or malfunctioning egr valve

and the other is a TPS voltage too high.

I replaced the TPS, still get the code.

ANY help is appreciated. THANK YOU

Jon
 
I have been having a checkengine light at WOT, so I pulled out my code reader and got it going. I pulled a memory code 53, that my reader says is TPS voltage too high, this light comes on at around 3800 under WOT. Then I puled the KOER 33 and it says I have insufficient flow or an erratic egr sensor.
 
Code 33 - Insufficient EGR flow detected.
Look for vacuum leaks, cracked vacuum lines, failed EGR vacuum regulator. Check to see if you have 10” of vacuum at the EGR vacuum connection coming from the intake manifold. Look for electrical signal at the vacuum regulator solenoid valves located on the rear of the passenger side wheel well. Using a test light across the electrical connector, it should flicker as the electrical signal flickers. Remember that the computer does not source any power, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.
Check for resistance between the brown/lt green wire on the EGR sensor and pin 27 on the computer: you should have less than 1 ohm.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif


EGR test procedure courtesy of cjones

to check the EGR valve:
bring the engine to normal temp.
connect a vacuum pump to the EGR Valve
apply 5in vacuum to the valve.
if engine stumbled or died then EGR Valve and passage(there is a passageway through the heads and intake) are good.
if engine did NOT stumble or die then either the EGR Valve is bad and/or the passage is blocked.
if engine stumbled, connect vacuum gauge to the hose coming off of the EGR Valve
snap throttle to 2500 RPM (remember snap the throttle don't hold it there).
did the vacuum gauge show about 5in vacuum?

if not, check for manifold vacuum at the EGR vacuum valve.
if you have manifold vacuum then connect vacuum gauge to the EGR valve side of the vacuum valve and snap throttle to 2500 RPM.
should read about 5in vacuum

The operation of the EGR vacuum regulator can be checked by using a test light applied across the wiring connector. Jumper the computer into self test mode and turn the key on but do not start the engine. You will hear all the actuators (including the EVR vacuum regulator) cycle. Watch for the light to flicker: that means the computer has signaled the EGR vacuum regulator successfully.

Code 53 - Throttle Position sensor too high – TPS – TPS out of adjustment, bad connections, missing signal ground, bad sensor.

Try this... Currently there is some dispute about setting it at .99 volts being worth the effort, but anything less is probably OK. All you need is less than 1.0 volt at idle and more than 4.25 at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). You'll need a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to do the job.

Wire colors & functions:
Orange/white = 5 volt VREF from the computer
Dark Green/lt green = TPS output to computer
Black/white = Signal ground from computer

Always use the Dark Green/lt green & Black/white wires to set the TPS base voltage.

Do the test with the ignition switch in the Run position without the engine running.

Use the Orange/white & Black white wires to verify the TPS has the correct 5 volts source from the computer.

Here’s a TPS tip I got from NoGo50…

When you installed the sensor make sure you place it on the peg right and then tighten it down properly. Loosen the back screw a tiny bit so the sensor can pivot and loosen the front screw enough so you can move it just a little in very small increments. I wouldn’t try to adjust it using marks. Set it at .97v-.99v, the closer to .99v the better. Just don’t go over .99, or you upset the fuel calibration and idle quality will suffer.

(copied from MustangMax, Glendale AZ)
1. Always adjust the TPS and Idle with the engine at operating temp. Dive it around for a bit if you can and get it nice and warm.

2. When you probe the leads of the TPS, do not use an engine ground, put the ground probe into the lead of the TPS. You should be connecting both meter probes to the TPS and not one to the TPS and the other to ground.

3. Always reset the computer whenever you adjust the TPS or clean/change any sensors. I just pull the battery lead for 10 minutes.

4. Check the procedure for your year, on my 90 I have to turn the idle screw until it just touches the tab, then insert a .010 feeler gauge and give it about one more turn. Then you adjust the TPS voltage to .98v, reset the computer. Start it up, if the idle is to low then turn the screw in until it is just right, then readjust the TPS voltage to .98v and reset the computer and start it up. The key is to adjust the TPS voltage and reset the computer whenever the idle screw is changed.

Adjusting the TPS fails to resolve the problem:
Check the black/white wire resistance. Connect one ohmmeter lead to the black/white wire on the TPS and one lead to the negative post on the battery. You should see less than 1.5 ohm, more than that indicates a problem. Always take resistance measurements with the circuit powered off.

Clean the 10 pin salt & pepper shaker connectors.
harness02.gif
.

See http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=85 for more help
 
grey5.0beast said:
Would the stuck EGR cuase the fuel pump to not stop priming at turning the key?
No.

I didn't read all this so I hope I don't repeat folks. If the FP relay wont shut off with the key off, probe the FP relay and note what's going on (especially on the control side). Depending upon what you find, it should be a latched FP relay or EEC relay.
Do any underhood sensors stay hot when the key is off?

Good luck.
 
K well I got it started just now it was missing badly, and I decided to walk to the back of the car. on every lope a puff of black smoke came out... fuel. So I went back to the front and found a spark plug wire resting on the header. Good thing I had an extra set of Durasparks, it looks kindof out of place with the blue ones but oh well. I really don't have time to test it out though so we'll see if she starts in the morning