Need help...wheel bearing and related install

The more grease the better, when you get it apart, you'll realize there is grease everywhere already.

There's really not much to it, put it back togehter the way you take it out.

Normally i'd say make sure you don't hit the top of the Ball joint stud with a hammer because you'll destroy the threads, but you are changing them anyway.

But, to get them loose you probably will have to hit the sides of the spindles around that area, generally they don't come out by hitting downwards.

Derek, you are doing it right. I normally get the old ball joint loose (a jack under the arm; BFH the BJ shank). Or a pickle fork works well if replacing the joint.

Once loose, I use a ball joint press - parts stores in the States loan them out. It looks like a big C-clamp with a set of adapters.

Really check out the ball joint boss in the LCA. The holes tend to hog-out since the joint is an interferance fit. If it is hogged out, be cautious about using the arm again. Many new aftermarket joints are slightly oversized to accomodate the enlarged boss.

If that is the case, new loaded arms are under 200 bucks. Had I known about them when I did my LCA bushings and joints (I did not even have internet then), I would have used those.

New outer wheel bearings are a no brainer. I do a quick check of inners and generally leave them. They dont wear out nearly as fast as outers in my experience. Like 2000 said, grease gets everywhere. I clean it all up and regrease. Some folks like to use bearing packers on the bearings - I dont like those things and dont use them. It is all kind of a judgement call on what to replace. Since the stuff is so easy to access down the line, I dont sweat it much.

Good luck Derek.

Oh yeah, one thing. 2000 says more grease is better - I agree. But dont overpack it or (if it is totally packed) the grease-caps pop off.

don't forget new cotter keys, and since you have all that stuff apart anyway, ck and replace the outer tie rod ends as necessary, if you replace one though, replace them both.

i think when i went to replace all my stuff in the front, it was about $60 total for all the bearings, and grease seals, and a small tub of castrol high temp grease.

and after you get everything changed, after about 200-500 miles, shoot a little more grease into the ball joints and tie rod ends. they come pregreased, but after all the articulation under load while driving, the grease will move around a slight bit, and lets face it, if you take the time to change the parts, you want them to last...

be sure to rotate the disc as your tightening the spindle nut as this preloads the bearings, there should be a slight amount of drag, if it's set too loose, the bearings will wear prematurely and make an obnoxious "clicking" sound while you're turning-been there done that...not to mention you'll have steering wheel vibration and wheel shimmy at speed...not too safe.

basically, if you've got a repair manual, and you can read and follow directions, you'll be fine

good luck!

Wow Derek. Since this is fun to you rolleyes, come on down and you can wrench on all the junk here. Do you think putting a new roof on is fun too? If so, I have a new best friend.
Wanna snake a toilet? J/K.

One more thing - I got polyurethane tie rod and ball joint boots at the parts store for like 3-5 bucks a pair. I kinda like them - they are perty (red) and should hold up to wear and tear better than rubber (rubber boots seem to often go south in the extreme heat here).

Good luck and have fun Derek!