bought an 89 lx notch with a rear disc brake conversion i could not by any means get the brakes to bleed.... with the car off you can bleed them and get a had pedal until you fire up the car the pedal goes to the floor with power assist. i thought the master cyl was bad so i replaced it and tried to bleed them again i bleed them over and over with a power bleeder and manually still with the same result.... the car appears to have the stock proportioning valve on it for a disc drum set up would this affect the rear brakes and cause them not to bleed? also it doesnt appear that there is a residual check valve for the rear disc is this required?..... if anyone knows anything about this help would be greatly appreciated this is the only thing stopping me from driving my newly rebuilt baby thanks so much ethan
need help with brakes desperate!
- Thread starter estang302
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Roland69
Sergeant Tangnet
did you bleed the master....I am not sure if the stock P-valve is good for the rear disc's...sometimes a one man bleeder wont cut it.
stang&2Birds
Founding Member
That's because you're NOT really bleeding them. HOW are you bleeding them? If you have a leak, or air *trapped* in the system, you MUST pressure bleed. You should pressure bleed anyways.
You *may* be able to bleed with the 2-man method. When you say hard/from pedal. Is that true IF you let the car SIT for 10min? If you pump the brakes, you compress the air in the lines. Then, after a while, the built up pressure bleeds back into the MC and you once again have air.
Or, if you have a leak. You may not feel it without the power booster. There isn't much leverage using a power booster without vacuum.
If you want to get it done quickly, then the 2-man method is the way to go. If you have time, get a pressure bleeder, and CUSTOMIZE A CAP. With a pressure bleeder, you can see "most" leaks if you leave pressure in the system for ~10 mins and look around. Also, with a pressure bleeder, bleeding is BORING. Just like changing oil. You do it, it *works, no BS worrying about ALL of the problems that *every* other method has. SNORE!!
BTW: MANY MANY MANY people have problems bleeding brakes. The reason is because there are a number of companies that sell SCAM and BS products that MAY work in SOME cases. Professional pressure bleed. It's the only approved method by Ford, GM, and most other companies. So, your (and many other people's) problems with bleeding brakes is due to BS advertising of BS products.
Hey, I got screwed *many* times buying BS products when I was a teen and learning about cars. (And, uhm, a few times since then also.
). I try to tell the people the *right* way to do things. Most of the time, they don't listen. But, enough do.
Also, with a pressure bleeder, you can bleed the MC. Uhm, do it CORRECTLY, or you'll have paint damage. To pressure bleed a MC.
1) Hook up the Pressure bleeder.
2) Get a junky FULL SIZE bath towel.
3) FULLY cover the fitting with the towel. Use 2 or more if you have to. I also like to cover the fender and cowl to be safe.
4) Loosen the fitting a LITTLE at a time. Do this UNDER the towel.
5) As you *feel* the fluid to escape, stop. Allow the fluid to drip *slowly* for 20-60 secs.
6) Do the other fitting.
7) Repeat #5 & #6 at LEAST once more. 2-3 time more is better.
8) Now bleed the brakes. I also like to do one round. Then do a second round.
9) If you have *any* air in your system after that, you have a leak.
I bleed 3+ of my cars every year. Never had a problem with my pressure bleeder. Well, except when I used the universal adapter and it got loose and sprayed brake fluid all over the place. A trip to the junk yard, a $5 MC cap, about 20 mins of work, and I never had to worry about making that mistake again!
BTW:
For information on Bleeding Brakes, see:
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/brakes/bleeding.html
Note: It has some out-dated info and links. Hey, I did that page ~?10? years ago.
Good Luck!
You *may* be able to bleed with the 2-man method. When you say hard/from pedal. Is that true IF you let the car SIT for 10min? If you pump the brakes, you compress the air in the lines. Then, after a while, the built up pressure bleeds back into the MC and you once again have air.
Or, if you have a leak. You may not feel it without the power booster. There isn't much leverage using a power booster without vacuum.
If you want to get it done quickly, then the 2-man method is the way to go. If you have time, get a pressure bleeder, and CUSTOMIZE A CAP. With a pressure bleeder, you can see "most" leaks if you leave pressure in the system for ~10 mins and look around. Also, with a pressure bleeder, bleeding is BORING. Just like changing oil. You do it, it *works, no BS worrying about ALL of the problems that *every* other method has. SNORE!!
BTW: MANY MANY MANY people have problems bleeding brakes. The reason is because there are a number of companies that sell SCAM and BS products that MAY work in SOME cases. Professional pressure bleed. It's the only approved method by Ford, GM, and most other companies. So, your (and many other people's) problems with bleeding brakes is due to BS advertising of BS products.
Hey, I got screwed *many* times buying BS products when I was a teen and learning about cars. (And, uhm, a few times since then also.
). I try to tell the people the *right* way to do things. Most of the time, they don't listen. But, enough do.Also, with a pressure bleeder, you can bleed the MC. Uhm, do it CORRECTLY, or you'll have paint damage. To pressure bleed a MC.
1) Hook up the Pressure bleeder.
2) Get a junky FULL SIZE bath towel.
3) FULLY cover the fitting with the towel. Use 2 or more if you have to. I also like to cover the fender and cowl to be safe.
4) Loosen the fitting a LITTLE at a time. Do this UNDER the towel.
5) As you *feel* the fluid to escape, stop. Allow the fluid to drip *slowly* for 20-60 secs.
6) Do the other fitting.
7) Repeat #5 & #6 at LEAST once more. 2-3 time more is better.
8) Now bleed the brakes. I also like to do one round. Then do a second round.
9) If you have *any* air in your system after that, you have a leak.
I bleed 3+ of my cars every year. Never had a problem with my pressure bleeder. Well, except when I used the universal adapter and it got loose and sprayed brake fluid all over the place. A trip to the junk yard, a $5 MC cap, about 20 mins of work, and I never had to worry about making that mistake again!
BTW:
For information on Bleeding Brakes, see:
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/brakes/bleeding.html
Note: It has some out-dated info and links. Hey, I did that page ~?10? years ago.
Good Luck!
ive gone to school for three years for mechanics and im sure the brakes were bleed correctly right rear left rear right front left front using the two man method 10 to 12 times.... after that still having no pedal i tried a vacuum bleeder with the same result.... im not very familiar with a rear disc brake conversion but i do know a disc drum set up uses essentially a 60 40 setup and disc uses 70 30 and i wasnt able to get to much fluid out of the rears i think i may have figured this problem out i read that alot of people have this same problem and they were switching to a 2 port 94 95 master with an inline adj prop valve so i ordered on and did a lil cutting and flaring also tig welded the cap on the prop valve after gutting it im justing waiting on jegs for the new valve if anyone has done this please fill me in on it thanks ethan
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