Need Help with new 5.0 Purchase

ameration · Sep 12, 2020

Just bought a 95 GT for my son. We plan to work on it and then road track course it some spring time. Need some help with a few items as this 5.0 is a different beast than the 4.6 I had in my old 99.

1. It has shorty headers and there is an exhaust leak on the driver side. I’m not sure what brand of headers they are but they appear to be a little warped causing the leak - any suggestions would be helpful?

2. The clutch seems off (but I’m not used to a cable style clutch). Is there any suggestions to make the clutch feel any better / smoother?

3. It wants to stall out, especially in first gear until the RPM’s get up to around 1,500+. Any thoughts or simple things to start with? It has new wires and PIP.

4. It has American Racing Torq Thrust Wheels (wise wheels) with 315/35R17 tires in the rear. Tires are slightly rubbing I’m the inside rear. I think 1/2” wheels spacers are the best option - anyone have a specific brand to recommend?

5. Car has EGR delete plate on it. Anything to worry about with that? Off-road H-pipe into Flowmasters our the back if that matters at all.

The plan was to work on the items needed and then have some fun with it.

Chythar · Sep 13, 2020

I'll answer what I know, and I'm sure others will pitch in.

1. The header bolts can work loose, causing an exhaust leak. Sometimes they can be loose enough to turn with your fingers. Torque for the header bolts is 26-32 ft.lbs.

2. The lining inside the clutch cable can wear out after a while, especially if it's been routed too close to the exhaust headers. This will cause some binding and stiff pedal feel. A heavy clutch can also make you really press your foot on the clutch pedal. Never had a hydraulic clutch before so I can't comment on the different feel between the two.

3. Idle issues can be many things, but I've found many are caused by vacuum leaks. If any of the rubber hoses are cracked or not tightly connected, replace them. The hard rubber hoses can be replaced with bulk hose from most auto parts stores.

4. Rubbing in the inner wheel well is common with wheels that big. The usual fix is percussive maintenance - take a hammer to the rubbed spots, then shoot them with a bit of paint for rust protection. Repeat until no more rubbing. I have tires & rims that big, and that was my fix.

5. If the computer has a tune to erase the EGR, you're fine. Otherwise, you may have driving issues at cruise. Does your check engine light work? An EGR delete without a chip can cause a CEL, and many folks just pull the bulb in the dash instead of fixing it right.

In general, checking for any stored codes in the computer would be a good idea if you haven't done that yet.

7991LXnSHO · Sep 13, 2020

Re:#5 Please do not just pull the CEL bulb for the EGR plate. You can put one from EBay, someone on here, or a nos one from Rock Auto for far less money than a tune and the hassle of finding a tuner in many areas.
The EGR system has nothing to do with the catalytic convertor or an AIR system. It runs some exhaust gas back into the intake mix to lower combustion temps just enough to lower NOx emissions. It does not recirculate at full throttle, and does not weigh that much. I see no reason beyond ignorance to get rid of it on anything less than a full race car that will not be cruising.

#3. I think the 5.0 surging idle checklist has notes for the Sn-95 Mustangs. Carefully go through it after you make sure the vac lines are all good and hooked up. It will be like a physical on a person. You will save a lot of hair pulling and random parts replacement by going through diagnostics in the right order.
Let us know what codes it posts when you get there.

jozsefsz · Sep 13, 2020

On #1, you might find some Remflex graphite header gaskets helpful. They'll take up a lot of warping at the flange, and I've not been able to blow out a set with my turbo headers so I imagine they'd last forever naturally-aspirated.

On #4, it depends where the rubbing is happening. Spacers can help, if you think it won't get you too close to the quarter-panel lip. If it's rubbing the quad-shocks, you can flip those to put the skinnier side near the tire.

Chythar · Sep 13, 2020

7991LXnSHO said:
Re:#5 Please do not just pull the CEL bulb for the EGR plate. You can put one from EBay, someone on here, or a nos one from Rock Auto for far less money than a tune and the hassle of finding a tuner in many areas.

Whoops, never meant to imply OP should just pull the bulb. I wanted to bring it to OP's attention, in case the previous owner pulled the bulb so he can replace it and properly fix the issue.

ameration · Sep 14, 2020

Chythar said:
Whoops, never meant to imply OP should just pull the bulb. I wanted to bring it to OP's attention, in case the previous owner pulled the bulb so he can replace it and properly fix the issue.

The CEL bulb is still in there and working. The light comes on once the car is running.

rockyracoon · Sep 19, 2020

I like the mrgasket reusable exh manni gaskets. seem to work well.

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