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Need help with some problems, I think fuel related.

  • Thread starter Thread starter mob
  • Start date Start date Feb 11, 2009

mob

the guy who hits on his mom
20+ Year Stangneter
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Feb 11, 2009
#1
  • Feb 11, 2009
  • #1
Hey guys I've been having some problems. I went to the track last friday car ran fine. On monday my fuel gauge stopped working. I filled up my gas tank last night and it stays at empty, so Im guessing I just need a new fuel pump sending unit. Anyways, around the same time I started noticing alot of vibration in the drivetrain, and a little more stuttering when leaving in first and second gear. And when I get to about 2500rpm and up the car will start cutting off and sputtering pretty bad. Yesterday I had a check engine light come on, but when I turned the car off and started it back up it stayed off. Do you guys think this could be a bad fuel pump? My stock one has been whining for a couple years now. I got a new pump so im going to change that soon. But if the pump isnt flowing like it should could it do that? Im gona try and check the codes today and see what i pull.

Now the new fuel pump i got, when I shake it, it sounds like something inside rattles alittle, is that normal?

And this is the sending unit I was looking at, im on a tight budget
87-93 FUEL LEVEL SENDING UNIT, 5.0L W/ EFI, REPRODUCTION MUSTANG

and since that one doesnt come with the oring Im going to order the lock ring with seal kit
79-93 LOCK RING WITH SEAL, FOR FUEL PUMP AND SENDING UNIT MUSTANG

That should be all I need to change the pump and sending unit correct?
 

Hickfied

Member
Nov 9, 2005
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Morganton, NC
Feb 11, 2009
#2
  • Feb 11, 2009
  • #2
Sounds just like a fuel pump going out. Is the combo in your sig the one used when you were launching in your sig? Got any suspension mods?
 

mob

the guy who hits on his mom
20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 3, 2003
2,566
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#3
  • Feb 11, 2009
  • #3
Ok im completley lost when it comes to the check engine light test, ive read jrichkers diagram thing 100 times but I dont get it. Anyways, I found two puddles of coolant, on top of the timing chain cover, on both sides pretty much right underneath where the head meets the block, is that like a gaurented head gasket on both sides??Ive had problems for a while now losing coolant maybe going to the track just finished it off?
 

Hickfied

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Feb 11, 2009
#4
  • Feb 11, 2009
  • #4
Check the passenger side of the lower intake for coolant. Sounds like the heater pipe is leaking where it screws into the lower intake, or the hose coming from the WP to the pipe is leaking.
 

jrichker

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Feb 11, 2009
#5
  • Feb 11, 2009
  • #5
There is probably a leak in the intake manifold gasket or thermostat housing gasket. Check that out first. The fan will make leaking coolant go all over the engine. If it sprays coolant on or near the distributor, you will get a sputter and miss condition. Moisture will condense inside the distributor cap and on the spark plug wires.

If you can get a cooling system checker to pressurize the cooling system, use it to check for leaks.
 

mob

the guy who hits on his mom
20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 3, 2003
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#6
  • Feb 11, 2009
  • #6
hmm k thanks guys, im gonna try that cooling system check Joe, any idea where you can get that? It did look a little wet where the intake mates to the head. I havent seen my oil but I didnt see any milkshake under my oil filler cap.
 

mob

the guy who hits on his mom
20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 3, 2003
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Dallas, TX
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#7
  • Feb 11, 2009
  • #7
Well i went out and looked agan and I saw a DECENT oil leak between the valve cover and head, the oil was gold and alittle watery though, is it possible to get water coming out of the valve cover? Maybe its just fresh oil? I did just change the oil couple weeks ago.
 

jrichker

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#8
  • Feb 11, 2009
  • #8
No possiblity of getting water out of the valve cover unless you have a large leak somewere else. Then crankcase pressure could be blowing it out past poorly sealing valve cover gaskets.

The coolant prssure tester is a hand operated pump with a hose and a radiator cap attached to it. You remove the cap from the radiator, and put on the cap that is connected to the hand pump. Pump it up to 15 PSI and watch for leaks.

This one is a OTC unit, but there are a number of companies that make them. A radiator shop might do test it for you for a few $.
 
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