Need new a arms

[95BLKGT5.0]

I need new A arms, my bushings and ball joints are shot so I think it is better to just replace the A arms then to have the ball joints and have new bushings installed.
Now tubular A arms are not that much more than the updated Ford A arms.
And I do want to lower my car so I was looking on ebay and I found this;
GROUND POUNDER
FORD MUSTANG TUBULAR K-MEMBER SUSPENSION KIT @ $499.99
K-MEMBER, TUBULAR A-ARMS & COIL OVER KIT @ $499.99

And here is the link to the ebay page;
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=42609&item=7965836956&rd=1

What do you think? Any other suggestion would be helpful. I have about $600 to spend on the suspension and with shipping the Ground Pounder kit is close.

Any better Ideas?

If I do this then I would have more money to get a GOOD DSS or CHP 306 or 331 motor.

 

[LoudToy958]

Deffinatly a nice looking kit you found, and it is ultimatly up to you, but you asked for opinions, so here it goes.

If you got the money free and clear, spent it on what you want.

I did new bushings and ball joints along with springs and CC plates, and bump steet kit. Huge difference. The car only has 16K on it, and the tie rod ends were sqeaking. I thought it was the ball joints. I figured, while I was in there, I'll do everything at once. I did.

Bushings - 50
Bump Steer - 150
X2 Ball joints - 100
H&R Springs - 240
Labor for Bushings - Shouldhave been 50 to press in the Ball joints and Bushings if you take them apart yourself.

I bought the CC kit too, that was 200, but a lot of people say it is not needed if you don't drop your car too far. I used the steeda X2s and Bump steer kit, so I was told it was needed. Just remember, everytime you do something this drastic to your car, there are HIDDEN costs. They will bite you in the rear. Your gonna need an alignment, and if your doing a K member, why not replace the engine mounts, and if you replacing the engine mounts, why not get the kit with the Tranny mount. It goes on and on..

Just my opinions..............................................LT

 

[95BLKGT5.0]

You make alot of good points.
Is it hard to press the bushings in, and where and what kind of bushings did you buy.
How can I tell if it is the ball joints or tie rod ends that are making the loud squeeking.

 

[LoudToy958]

You make alot of good points.
Is it hard to press the bushings in, and where and what kind of bushings did you buy.
How can I tell if it is the ball joints or tie rod ends that are making the loud squeeking.

I bought all Energysuspension bushings. A-arms - spring isolators, and I am waiting for the end links and sway bar mounts right now. I wanted red for the a-arms, but they were on back order at the time. Whatever - works just as well.

I would say if it squeeks when you turn the wheel it is more than likely the tie rods. You can get a tie rod puller rented from autozone, pop them off, and move the joints by hand. If they squeek. There you go. As I discovered too late, my ball joints were okay. I already had the a-arms off, so I didn't want to do it again.

The bushings I don't think can be done by hand. I would not even try. I had a friend with a hydraulic press do the bushings and ball joints. He said if it were a customer, 50-70 bucks. (If the arms are off the car)

 

[95BLKGT5.0]

I just found the updated A arm for $150 and they come with ball joints and bushings installed. This site has good prices.

www.oemfordparts.com.

But like you said; I will check the tie rod ends first.