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Need rear suspension help (almost can't drive it)

  • Thread starter Thread starter ROLLIN5.0
  • Start date Start date Mar 10, 2006

ROLLIN5.0

New Member
Nov 19, 2004
135
0
0
Tulsa, OK
Mar 10, 2006
#1
  • Mar 10, 2006
  • #1
Alright guys, this issue is just getting worse, and worse. First of all, the axle sits an inch left of center, but that's not the bad part. I push the brake, the car jerks left. I let off the brake, the car jerks right. I punch the gas, the car jerks right. It is getting to where it is hard to control. I have replaced rear springs, shocks, and quad shocks. I have inspected as much as I can, and haven't been able to find an obvious problem. The only thing that I can think of that would make any kind of since, is the fact that if I slide the car, I slide the rear toward the right (highway on-ramp right by the house), which would push the rear axle toward the side that it is slanted toward, but why all the shifty crap. The only thing I can think of is the control arm bushings, but can they really cause this much? The car literally tries to jump into other lanes during braking, etc. I just read another post about breaking sway bars, but mine was fine last time I checked it out. What do you guys think? I have to fix this, or get a new roller, and send this thing to the crusher, it's that serious.
btw, front suspension is fine (tie rods, etc.), and brakes are wearing evenly. I can let go of the steering wheel cruising 70mph, and the car is straight as an arrow. Is replacing the bushings going to solve this, or am I wasting my time?
Brandon
 

sawbones25

Founding Member
May 29, 2001
1,318
1
38
Virginia
Mar 10, 2006
#2
  • Mar 10, 2006
  • #2
Bushings
Torque boxes
Bent control arms
Bent subframe
Bent unibody
Loose nut behind the wheel...

Springs and shocks have nothing to do with it.
And you won't be able to see it while the car is on the ground.
It's gotta go on an alignment rack.
 

ROLLIN5.0

New Member
Nov 19, 2004
135
0
0
Tulsa, OK
Mar 10, 2006
#3
  • Mar 10, 2006
  • #3
So if I put the car on an alignment rack, are they going to be able to tell me what's causing the problem? My mother-in-law has a clean 94 V6 vert with 260k miles on it. I've been thinking about buying it from her, and switching everything over. My car was wrecked before I got it, but these problems weren't there when I got it. It has come on slowly, and is getting worse, and worse. Any tips on narrowing it down, without throwing parts at it?
Brandon
 

sawbones25

Founding Member
May 29, 2001
1,318
1
38
Virginia
Mar 10, 2006
#4
  • Mar 10, 2006
  • #4
Getting it up in the air will help. Then you can stand under the car and see what's not lined up. Or someone who knows what they're looking at...
When you're lying on the ground, it's hard to judge that kind of stuff.

An alignment rack will allow you to keep the weight on the suspension to see what's sagging, bent, warped, etc...
A twin post lift will allow the wheels to hang, so it'll be hard to judge. Unless it's something plainly obvious like a bent control arm or torque box.

But that'd be my first stop, the alignment shop...
 
G

godstangit

New Member
Dec 21, 2002
187
0
0
Illinois
Mar 11, 2006
#5
  • Mar 11, 2006
  • #5
Thats a good idea, take it to a shop that does alignments, most offer a cheap price to get you in the door like 29.95 or so and you can bet they'll be looking for bad parts.
 

mytight95

Active Member
Apr 11, 2003
2,605
0
46
Dothan,Al
Mar 11, 2006
#6
  • Mar 11, 2006
  • #6
I have the same rear wheel offset problem.... around 1", others have it too. I haven't looked for the problem too much, so if you figure it out soon, let us know what it up with it.


jason
 

94-302-vert

Active Member
Aug 16, 2004
1,947
2
36
NE CT
Mar 13, 2006
#7
  • Mar 13, 2006
  • #7
with the car on the ground try to move the back aend of the car to see if the rear end is moving in relation to the body.

My car was doing pretty emuch every thign you said here plus when i took off the driveshaft was hitting my muffler if I took off hard enough. Changed the bushings and it ALL stopped... I would say to do all of the bughings and you will be fine. It is not too $$ and it jsut takes a few hours...
 

ROLLIN5.0

New Member
Nov 19, 2004
135
0
0
Tulsa, OK
Mar 16, 2006
#8
  • Mar 16, 2006
  • #8
Yeah, I just shook the rear of the car from side to side. It has a pretty good amount of movement, and the axle just sits still. I could hear a clunking noise as well. I'm going to order a bushing kit. I'll let you guys know if it resolves the issues. Thanks for the tips guys.
Brandon
 

mytight95

Active Member
Apr 11, 2003
2,605
0
46
Dothan,Al
Mar 16, 2006
#9
  • Mar 16, 2006
  • #9
my car is at the shop right now...... i did the same thing you did.......ordered new control arms instead of bushings though....

they were putting gears in anyhow.... my mech said he would throw in for like nothing so why not let him do it..... getting new brake pads, rotors etc. while i am at it....


jason
 

ROLLIN5.0

New Member
Nov 19, 2004
135
0
0
Tulsa, OK
Mar 17, 2006
#10
  • Mar 17, 2006
  • #10
Anyone tried these from Blue Oval...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/79-9...ewItemQQcategoryZ33583QQitemZ8046904766QQrdZ1
Brandon
 

go-stang5.0

New Member
Jan 27, 2003
2,244
0
0
Glenview,Il
Mar 17, 2006
#11
  • Mar 17, 2006
  • #11
Get ford HD UCA's if you get any at all. The poly bushings in these uppers will cause suspension bind for anything but straight line use. The ford ones still use a rubber bushing but its stiffer than stock and as stiff as you would want it w/o too much bind. Maximum Motorsports does not make their own UCA's, they just sell the ford ones...they say theres no point in making their own, Ford has done it best and there only like $60 bux.
 

mytight95

Active Member
Apr 11, 2003
2,605
0
46
Dothan,Al
Mar 17, 2006
#12
  • Mar 17, 2006
  • #12
i went with the factory five control arms..........well see how they do


jason
 
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