Need some assistance...

frankoman87

New Member
Aug 12, 2005
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Denver, CO
Hello. I'm am new here and I think it's great that they have these forums to help people out with their issues on their Mustangs.

First off, I've owned 3 fox body Mustangs so I know the basics about my car. My problem is that I've never really worked on my car by myself and I'm just learning right now.

I've owned my current 87 Mustang for over 4 years and I've had some basic mods done to it..(gears, exhaust, etc.) It's been in my garage for over a year and I finally took it out yesterday and got it running again.

I got an oil change, radiator flush, power steering flush, and the rear end serviced. It's running okay right now but I know it can run a lot better.

Currently it feels like the engine is just not running smooth. I know this is partly because I have 3 plug wires that do not match my other plug wires because my headers burnt through the plug wire boots which caused me to replace with temporary wires. Do you know where I can get something to protect the boots on the wire as opposed to going with header wrap?? Or does header wrap work pretty well. I didn't go with the ceramic headers unfortunately because of price.

Also, do you recommend getting a better ignition system?? I've heard good things about MSD and Mallory. Is there an ignitions system that you would recommend?

Sorry for all the dumb questions. I just want to learn how to do this myself as opposed to paying other people to do it. I love my car and I want to restore it. I just need a little help.
 
Your signature says, "Mac Equal Length 2 5/8" Headers." Is that supposed to be 1 5/8"?

The stock ignition will be fine for what you have. You can throw a better coil on there to help out, but definately change the plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, air filter and check the timing. Clean the MAF sensor and clean our the AIC valve. Some sea foam in the intake wouldn't hurt either.

Tim
 
Sorry about that. Must of typed it wrong.

So should I just get the MSD package that has everything in it including cap/rotor and plugs?? The reason why I asked is because it costs 600 bucks for the whole set up.

Or am I better off getting everything individually? If so, can you recommend some good quality plug wires, cap/rotor?

What do you suggest I have the timing set as??

Also I've never heard of sea foam going in the intake. What does that entail?
 
Welcome to the forums :nice:
Glad to hear you're working on your car yourself - you'll find alot of help around here! :hail2:
You can get hheat sleeves for you plug boots, they sell them @ most speed shops, some parts houses, Summit, any online speed store. They're pretty cheap, and pretty effetive, just try to make sure they're not lying on the header (i.e. 90* plug boots instead of 180* or 45*). I have 2 on my car, I'll post a pic in a minute.
For a near-stock car, you won't need to upgrade the ignition, but you can replace the cap & rotor and wires. Upgrading the coil isn't too expensive and if your TFI hasn't gone out yet, it might at some point!
I personally have my timing @ 14*, some have it higher, some have it lower, the higher you go the more risk of detonation, and the higheroctane fuel you will have to use. FYI, premium is 2.88/gal here today :fuss:
 
I know this is a dumb question. Where is the fuel filter located?? Again, sorry for the ignorance.

So the regular cap/rotor from autozone is good enough?? Do they typically stock the autolite 25's or do you think I'll have to order them?
 
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=567742
that's a link to the thread w/ pics of the heat sleeve on the wire.
the fuel filter is in front of the tank, towards the front of the car. Just follow the two rubber lines that come from the top of the tank on the passenger side to the filter, in a bracket under the car.
Autozone should stock the 25's.
People will have different opinions on which brand cap&rotor to use, but Motorcraft, Standard, etc. are all good.
 
Welcome! Tim and Big J have you hooked up. :nice:

I agree that the stock ignition is fine. Now I dont know if there is a tendancy to run ignitions in the thin air (in case of richness). Otherwise, the stock ignition can be good for nearly 400 HP N/A.

Parts recommended are just what I might have suggested as well. Parts stores sell brass-caps and rotors - that worked fine for me. The brands J mentioned are all very good.

One way to get more HP would be to either move or get a huffer. :D I cant even breathe 5K' up. :rlaugh:
 
Thanks for all your help guys. I'm just glad people are so willing to help out. I'll post pics up of my pony soon. I think you'll like her. She's definitely unique when it comes to looks.

I'm going to get all that stuff you guys recommend this weekend. I'll let you know how my results are.

Also, when should I do a mass air conversion?? Should I wait till I start modifying my engine or do you think it will help with my current set up??
 
I would keep it SD till you start to see issues. That often happens when breathing and the cam get a little big. But once again, maybe the High-Alt cars leave something to be desired, in which case go for it. Sorry for that non-answer.
 
Plugs - Autolite 25s
Wires - Ford Racing Wires. 39.99 on www.summit.com

Cap and Rotor, Ford Racing Cap and Rotor Kit

Air Filter - K&N

Fuel Filter - Motorcraft

Oil Filter - Motorcraft, Pure One, just NOT fram

Oil - Do a search, synthetics are good, but may reveal a leak. Depends on mileage and age and whatnot.

Good Luck!
 
Frank -
the heat sleeves I actually got off the Explorer that I got my heads and intake from. Ford put them on the motors w/ the GT40P's apparently. I've also seen them in a local parts store and in Summit, sold in pairs.
I would get 90* wires if I were you. I'm actualy running the Motorsport wires w/ 180* boots, but i had to bend them to ~ 45* to clear the drivers side headers, but #7 burnt out, so I replaced it w/ a stock Motorcraft wire from a Bronco, and put the 90* end on the plug, and the 45* end on the dizzy, as you can see in the rest of the pics in that thread.
And like JT (Hissin50) said, keep the SD until you change the cam. I've even heard of SD guys doing mild cams (I read pn's somewhere) and/or 5-6 lbs. of boost w/o too much trouble.
It's all in the tune.... :D